need help...bad

[stratplayer24]

To start off, I think I have a boost leak. When ever I get into boost it sounds like its just leaking all out. It's just a loud like hiss. I have a front mount and have tightened all the coulpers pretty tight butijust cant find where theleak is. Is there something I could do to narrow where It is?


Second of all, I had my tyranny rebuilt,flywheel cut and a new clutch. Whenever the car is cold it'll shift as smooth as s Honda. But whenever I drive it after It warms up it'll be very difficult to shift. Like I'm not even pushing in the clutch. And when I'm stopped and try to shift Into first gear ill have To force into gear which I know Is not good. the clutch Is adjusted right, I know that for a fact. Does anyone have some Input? Also after the car warms up the gears will whine really badly.

Any help would be appriciated.

 

[_1466_]

First, perform a Boost Leak Test (BLT). If you are confident that your couplers are all tight it is most likely coming from the TB Shaft seals or J-Pipe gasket. I usually find a few small ones every couple weeks... especially if I'm running higher pressure. Most members refrain from responding/helping until this test is performed because boost leaks seem to be one of the most fundamental issues on turbo vehicles.

If you do not have a tester, do a quick read of this thread and stop by your local hardware store.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/15800-how-do-i-make-buy-use-troubleshoot-boost-leak-tester-merged.html

I'm sorry I cannot offer much help with regards to your transmission issues. I don't want to lead you on a wild goose chase...

 

[90on35psi]

Boost leak should be easily sorted out with a tester and some soapy water. As to the transmission issue, when is the last time you checked the fluid level? Crack the filler plug and if none comes out, drain what's in it and put some Pennzoil Syncromesh in it until it overflows. Hopefully you don't drain out big chunks of metal. Let us know what you find.

 

[Derock2gspyder]

ya just hook up the boost leak checker and get it all checked out i would say if everything is all tight and no hole in couplers then i would lean towards blow off valve! expecially if its a greddy those always seem to leak around the flange where they bolt up!
and as far as the clutch issue make sure none of the lines are anywhere around the exhaust cause over headed clutch fluid can cause similar problems also make sure no air is in the system!

 

[stratplayer24]

Boost leak should be easily sorted out with a tester and some soapy water. As to the transmission issue, when is the last time you checked the fluid level? Crack the filler plug and if none comes out, drain what's in it and put some Pennzoil Syncromesh in it until it overflows. Hopefully you don't drain out big chunks of metal. Let us know what you find.

I work at A jiffy lube and when i got my oil changed the guy on the underside of my car drained my tranny and put new synthetic fluid in it that was about 2 weeks ago. it's been whining ever since i got the tranny done. it takes 80-90 weight right?

Ill do the boost leak test tonight, hopefully it isn't my bov or something major...
got a Blitz Bov, Do those usually leak? I'm only running stock boost on a stock t-25.

when i put the piping on my front mount, i had trouble with keeping the piping on. like it would pop off when i was in boost for more then like 30 sec. and i'd have to pull over and put the pipes back together. so what i did was took a drill and screws and drilled through the coupler and the pipes and screwed it together. after i did that i haven't had a problem with them popping off. do you think that the screws could be leaking the air? if so what are some other ways ot keep the pipes from blowwing out of the coupler?

ya just hook up the boost leak checker and get it all checked out i would say if everything is all tight and no hole in couplers then i would lean towards blow off valve! expecially if its a greddy those always seem to leak around the flange where they bolt up!
and as far as the clutch issue make sure none of the lines are anywhere around the exhaust cause over headed clutch fluid can cause similar problems also make sure no air is in the system!

I've bled my clutch system so much that i could practically do it in my sleep.

whenever i was putting a clutch and rebuilding the tranny i got the flywheel cut down and i didn't shim the fork ball, could that mess up the clutch or cause what's happening to my car? having to force it into gear, dragging clutch...etc..

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

I would say that the screws you have holding your intercooler pipes together are most likely leaking. Not to say that is your entire problem, but it can't be helping matters any. You need to either have your intercooler pipe ends bead rolled so that don't come apart as easy or you need to try using some t-bolt clamps if you are not already. To be absolutely sure you should have the pipe ends bead rolled and use the t-bolt clamps, but sometimes you can get away with just using the t-bolt clamps.

 

[stratplayer24]

I would say that the screws you have holding your intercooler pipes together are most likely leaking. Not to say that is your entire problem, but it can't be helping matters any. You need to either have your intercooler pipe ends bead rolled so that don't come apart as easy or you need to try using some t-bolt clamps if you are not already. To be absolutely sure you should have the pipe ends bead rolled and use the t-bolt clamps, but sometimes you can get away with just using the t-bolt clamps.

I was using and still am using t-bolt clamps and theystill didn't hold. BUt wed. Is my day off so I will definitely try to bead them.

ANyone have tthought on the tranny?

 

[90on35psi]

What fluid did the guy put in it? Did you check the fluid level anyway?

 

[ReYnd]

So far all I know about my car's transmission is that it does not like Coastal 75W-90 gear oil. Maybe it doesn't hate it, but I can certainly hear stuff happening that ...doesn't sound like it should be happening. This effect could be multiplied because one of my clutch components took a dump on me and it's just not a very happy car right now. It was perfectly content with Red Line MT-90, which I'll be going back to when the rest of the work is done.

It's always a good idea to bead intercooler piping. T-bolt clamps are really helpful too. There's one company I saw selling pipes with little hook-type things welded on as keepers for the couplers. I'd certainly never drill them, that's a guaranteed leak. RTV/JB Weld could probably help you out there.

 

[stratplayer24]

It's got penzoil full synthetic gl-5 (80w-90)

Is there a way to bead the piping yourself? And my couplers are cheap ones. What brand should I get?

 

[TurboTerror99]

I don't see how you could put a roll on the pipes yourself. It should be a cheap process for your local machine shop. It would take a decent amount of consistent force to roll them properly. I have cheap couplers too and they work fine. They're 4 ply... I think. I had major issues when I got my car and when I changed the BOV they went away. It would pour air when I performed a BLT. Good luck.

 

[ReYnd]

There are a few ways to bead piping. The easiest way is to have someone else do it. But you can also modify a Vice-Grip by putting a notch in one side and a coinciding bulge on the other, and rotate it around the openings of your pipes. If it's a thicker-walled pipe, you could apply JB Weld around the pipe where you want the bead to be, build it up a little bigger than you want, let it dry and sand it down. There are far better explanations of these methods and others on this very site.

A t-bolt is a t-bolt as far as this application is concerned. Only need to get better quality ones if you manage to break the ones you have.

 

[90on35psi]

I've run the Coastal crap before too. Tranny definately hated it. The only thing that's worked for me has been Pennzoil Synchromesh.

 

[kenamond]

Are you sure you have the master cylinder pushrod properly adjusted? If it isn't, the clutch behavior can change as the engine bay warms up the clutch/brake fluid and it expands. You should be able to push the slave rod back into the cylinder with your fingers even with a hot engine bay (and hot clutch line).

Get the pipes beaded somehow and plug the holes you drilled. Then do a BLT. When's the last time you changed your PCV valve (with an OEM unit)? When they go, they're horrible boost-leakers. Plenty of places to leak boost during a BLT. Couplers, MBC, IC holes, BOV gasket, BOV, TB gaskets, TB shaft seals, vac/boost lines, PCV, intake valve stem seals, intake mani gasket, injector insulators, ring leaks (low compression). Find 'em, fix 'em, and learn to love the BLT. Once it's air-tight, do BLTs every oil change or two.

 

[atruepretense]

I work at A jiffy lube and when i got my oil changed the guy on the underside of my car drained my tranny and put new synthetic fluid in it that was about 2 weeks ago. it's been whining ever since i got the tranny done. it takes 80-90 weight right?

Ill do the boost leak test tonight, hopefully it isn't my bov or something major...
got a Blitz Bov, Do those usually leak? I'm only running stock boost on a stock t-25.

when i put the piping on my front mount, i had trouble with keeping the piping on. like it would pop off when i was in boost for more then like 30 sec. and i'd have to pull over and put the pipes back together. so what i did was took a drill and screws and drilled through the coupler and the pipes and screwed it together. after i did that i haven't had a problem with them popping off. do you think that the screws could be leaking the air? if so what are some other ways ot keep the pipes from blowwing out of the coupler?

To be honest, if you wanted to keep them from blowing off,you should have beaded the pipes with JB Weld. Most likely, your screws are the problem.

 

[brian9397gsx]

ive had no problems just flaring the ends of the pipes with pliers works fine deff not pretty but doesnt leak and they wont pop off.

you should not be using gl 5 as it is corrosive to brass which is what our syncros are made of.


i just replaced my clutch also but when i did it i replaced everything. master slave pivot ball and throw out fork then bleed it per jacks transmissions how to video. no drag on my 2600 even after driving all day.

 

[BLINKY619]

Are you sure you have the master cylinder pushrod properly adjusted? If it isn't, the clutch behavior can change as the engine bay warms up the clutch/brake fluid and it expands. You should be able to push the slave rod back into the cylinder with your fingers even with a hot engine bay (and hot clutch line).

Get the pipes beaded somehow and plug the holes you drilled. Then do a BLT. When's the last time you changed your PCV valve (with an OEM unit)? When they go, they're horrible boost-leakers. Plenty of places to leak boost during a BLT. Couplers, MBC, IC holes, BOV gasket, BOV, TB gaskets, TB shaft seals, vac/boost lines, PCV, intake valve stem seals, intake mani gasket, injector insulators, ring leaks (low compression). Find 'em, fix 'em, and learn to love the BLT. Once it's air-tight, do BLTs every oil change or two.

+1 on that....!! check everything stated above