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Need a little help with the timing. (with picture)

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preludeachris

10+ Year Contributor
295
3
Sep 29, 2011
Lincoln, Nebraska

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Funny thing, I am about to drop the timing belt on a 04 Sonata G4JS, about the same thing as your 7Bolt.

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See the pink marks, you should have the same marks for your crank.

yeah, I know this engine looks horrid, it is for a used car lot and gave me no budget, so its a repair, more than a rebuild.
 

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Funny thing, I am about to drop the timing belt on a 04 Sonata G4JS, about the same thing as your 7Bolt.

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See the pink marks, you should have the same marks for your crank.

yeah, I know this engine looks horrid, it is for a used car lot and gave me no budget, so its a repair, more than a rebuild.

Wonder how that front case fits a 7 bolt.
 
Oh it would bolt right on a DSM 7 bolt no issue. Where the issue comes in is the back oil pump casting, the angle for the pick up screen is different, The JS one is more straight than angled. Also the blot pattern is slightly different, 4 of the 5 back casting bolts line up, but the other is off by about .125 of an inch.

But the gears are the same, Also a cut down shaft fits just fine. So all you do to a 4g63 as far as a BSE can be done to the G4JS

Also they would not go for the price of a OE Hyd Tenstioner, they want the the used parts store one put back on.

I told them there is no guarantee or warranty, if/when it fails, including the head when the valves bend.

The joys of doing work for the "Buy Here, Pay here" used car lots
 
First find out where your crank is sitting now.

If it is more than just a few teeth off, I will recommend that you loosen the cam caps then rotate the crank so the crank marks are lined up.

Now torque the cam caps

Now align the cam gears the last little bit and lock into place.
 
Looks pretty good, from the pic though the tensioner gap seems a bit larger than spec, so double check that, rotate it clock-wise by hand a few times and check your marks again.
 
If the white mark on the oil pump pulley is the timing mark (which it does appear to be), your oil pump is out of time.
 
That doesn't matter for the oil pump since he's not running balance shaft. Crank seems to be off, or it's just the pic that sux ...

I thought so too, but it looks about right.

The notch in the belt plate, should be just under the bolt.

I think it is an odd angle or a shadow that is causing an eye-ball screw...
 
Given thats got a crank sensor its a 2g. Dont the tensioner holes go down on a 2g? I would consult the manual. If memory serves the pulley is very close if not touching the water pump that way.

I tought the same but since the last I've done is my 6bolts I don't remember.

VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions is all I ever needed for timing . Print it, swear untill you get the right tension and it's done ;)

Serioulsy I can't remember for sure how I did it but for the tensionner there's a secret to get it right everytime. Just put the right allen where you mesure before tensionning and torquing. After turning the crank and waiting it was dead on spec and that's also how I did my 2gen 3 years ago after maybe 15 try before trying this.

Whit the engine out like yours it'll be easy.
 
Given thats got a crank sensor its a 2g. Dont the tensioner holes go down on a 2g? I would consult the manual. If memory serves the pulley is very close if not touching the water pump that way.

Yea they do. The pulley is supposed to be turned counter clockwise for 2g. Manual calls for 2.6 ft-lbs / 31.2 inch-lbs counterlockwise. I'd correct that op. It's almost surely the reason why your auto tensioner looks over extended.
 
Yea they do. The pulley is supposed to be turned counter clockwise for 2g. Manual calls for 2.6 ft-lbs / 31.2 inch-lbs counterlockwise. I'd correct that op. It's almost surely the reason why your auto tensioner looks over extended.

^ this checks out looked up in my Chrysler service manual (4g63 talon) I did fix this in case anyone was wondering :thumb:
 
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