My Motor built with a 100 shot.....

[talonboy98]

Well I finally paid off my car, so I decided to have some fun with it!

Bought some Crower forged rods, 10.5:1 JE's .020 over, ARP head and main studs, an Apex full seal and gasket set, 60 mm throttle body, one step colder NGK's with new Accel wires, and an A pillar 3 guage pod, with A/F, NX PSI and Engine PSI. And the NX Kit with 50, 75, 100 shot jets with teh GENX2 upgrade kit. Also bought a 255lph fuel pump and new O2's. The stock injectors should still be ok for the meantime and I'm basically out of saved money right now , so there will be more purchasing over the winter for sure.

The car is at Custom Crank here in Wpg getting built, and the car is out Wall's Rod and Custom where the kit install is happenin and the motor is getting installed and tuned up on the dyno there. I cant wait, should be back in about 2 weeks

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[KPWSerpiente]

Car looks awesome -> please take some pictures of your set up once it is complete.

-T

 

[V8HAHA]

Your putting a NX / A/F gauge in, instead of an EGT? Also, 10.5:1.... holy shit!

 

[Black94TSI]

Your putting a NX / A/F gauge in, instead of an EGT? Also, 10.5:1.... holy shit!

The car is non turbo, which is why the high compression.

 

[miamieclipse]

yup yup very nice , might want to think about getting a afc to tune, ported and polished intake manifold (stocker is kinda restrictive), cam gears and cams hehe wow i just see myself sitting here and adding alot of shit to this list, modding is like a ####in snowball

 

[1fast97gsx]

nice man ... I'm thinking of building the n/t I just bought as my daily driver. How much did all the parts run you?

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

Engine PSI? You mean a boost gauge? Your putting a boost gauge on a nonturbo, and an a/f gauge over an EGT? LoL

 

[squeak10686]

i can sell you some blinker fluid while your at it...

 

[DSMJim]

Nitrous pressure is good, but EGT woudl be your other choice. The blinkly lightshow A/F gauge is a total waste of time and money, don't even bother. They have 12 lights on them to show a range of 100 different voltages, basically one light will show you rich when it's lean enough to blow up your engine.

You should get a real Wide Band air fuel ratio meter. I have www.innovatemotorsports.com and it's a kick ass unit, cheap too. Thats what you need for watching the air fuel. I would also recommend an SAFC so you can add fuel here or take it out there as you need. The new SAFC2 has two programs on it so you can get your max HP N/A and swtich maps and have one for nitrous too. DId that on my dads maxima and it worked out really well. Flattned out the AFR curve and the car went faster NA and on spray.

100hp shot is pretty low. Consider going up as much as 150-200hp shot with your setup. Thats no problem on those internals. We sprayed my dads car with 200hp shot on a fully stock 3.5L maxima motor and all was cool. Thats on race gas though remember. 100hp is your topps for pump.

 

[GSGoinFast]

Nitrous pressure is good, but EGT woudl be your other choice. The blinkly lightshow A/F gauge is a total waste of time and money, don't even bother. They have 12 lights on them to show a range of 100 different voltages, basically one light will show you rich when it's lean enough to blow up your engine.

You should get a real Wide Band air fuel ratio meter. I have www.innovatemotorsports.com and it's a kick ass unit, cheap too. Thats what you need for watching the air fuel. I would also recommend an SAFC so you can add fuel here or take it out there as you need. The new SAFC2 has two programs on it so you can get your max HP N/A and swtich maps and have one for nitrous too. DId that on my dads maxima and it worked out really well. Flattned out the AFR curve and the car went faster NA and on spray.

100hp shot is pretty low. Consider going up as much as 150-200hp shot with your setup. Thats no problem on those internals. We sprayed my dads car with 200hp shot on a fully stock 3.5L maxima motor and all was cool. Thats on race gas though remember. 100hp is your topps for pump.

if he got the autometer a/f then it is 20 led's. a little more accurate but not much. ya and ditch that engine psi and get an egt. if you get a s-afc it can tell you your intake manifold pressure.

Jim, does that wideband have to be installed on your car, or can you just screw it in an existing o2 bung, tune, and then take it out. or clamp in on or something? it doesnt have to stay in the car does it? i told my shop teacher to order that one for me to tune with so i wanna make sure the shop can use it and it doesnt have to be installed in a car. thanks

 

[Bd1000Eclipse]

if you get a s-afc it can tell you your intake manifold pressure.

You must be thinking of a v-tec controller

 

[GSGoinFast]

You must be thinking of a v-tec controller

no it reads manifold pressure. mine is the bottom reading of my 4 readings. it just displays the MAP signal

 

[67goatpimp]

If I were you I would run Autometer A/F, EGT, and that's it. Put the nitrous pressure gauge on the bottle.

 

[1fast97gsx]

If I were you I would run Autometer A/F, EGT, and that's it. Put the nitrous pressure gauge on the bottle.

So you want to get out and look at the bottle pressure everytime you want to spray? A/F guages are useless ( at least the ones you are talking about )

 

[Kevin Jewer]

I had one of those AF guages with 25 leds, every one was about .01 volts reading only between .75 and 1.0. Very accurate gauge. The problem is the sensor, its a POS Guage accuracy is meaningless when the sensor itself is useless.

 

[GSGoinFast]

So you want to get out and look at the bottle pressure everytime you want to spray? A/F guages are useless ( at least the ones you are talking about )

nitrous pressure isnt something that has to be constantly monitered. hell my bottle gauge is broken and im fine. it wont read past 800psi. but all you need to do is make sure your above that level. anything below needs refilling. and it reads accurately up to 800psi.

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

I had one of those AF guages with 25 leds, every one was about .01 volts reading only between .75 and 1.0. Very accurate gauge. The problem is the sensor, its a POS Guage accuracy is meaningless when the sensor itself is useless.

The stock o2 sensor is a narrowband, as opposed to a wideband. They are intended to increase gas mileage on the highway while cruising, and are not used at WOT. They are worthless to tune with.

Anyone who says an a/f gauge is worthwhile is an idjit.

 

[GSGoinFast]

The stock o2 sensor is a narrowband, as opposed to a wideband. They are intended to increase gas mileage on the highway while cruising, and are not used at WOT. They are worthless to tune with.

Anyone who says an a/f gauge is worthwhile is an idjit.

well im not sure what an idjit is, but your wrong. stock o2 sensors are not used during regular driving, they just cycle there signal. they are used at wide open throttle. there main purpose isnt gas milage but to make sure that the a/f ratio wont destroy the catalytic converter. it is neither a power nor an economy device.

 

[Kevin Jewer]

I Think the AFR guage has some idiot light uses, but not many for tuning.

The ECU ignores the O2 sensors at WOT, and it ignores fuel trims. It does use it during closed loop mode to cycle AFR around 14.7:1 or similar depending on needs. Its only accurate in a VERY narrow range, thats why it cycles it.

The rear sensor is used to verifyu that the CAT is working, thats all. Its not there to save the cat. The front sesor will see the voltage cycling, if the ECU sees the same signal on the rear sensor it knows the car is defective or missing. If its flatline or cycles at a much lower amplitude, the ECU will assume the cat is working, thats why leaving the sensor plugged in and working but not in the exhaust stream will avoid cat system below eficiency threshold bank 1 DTCs.

 

[IMMORTALSPYDER]

Sorry to be off topic, but I wish my washer fluid bottle was under the hood. I never noticed where the N/T's were.

By the way good luck with the setup.

 

[GSGoinFast]

I Think the AFR guage has some idiot light uses, but not many for tuning.

The ECU ignores the O2 sensors at WOT, and it ignores fuel trims. It does use it during closed loop mode to cycle AFR around 14.7:1 or similar depending on needs. Its only accurate in a VERY narrow range, thats why it cycles it.

The rear sensor is used to verifyu that the CAT is working, thats all. Its not there to save the cat. The front sesor will see the voltage cycling, if the ECU sees the same signal on the rear sensor it knows the car is defective or missing. If its flatline or cycles at a much lower amplitude, the ECU will assume the cat is working, thats why leaving the sensor plugged in and working but not in the exhaust stream will avoid cat system below eficiency threshold bank 1 DTCs.

i understand the rear cat part, thats why you can do the resistor mod to it to avoid a cel if you have no cat. but from everything ive seen on 2gnt, our cars dont look at the front o2 during normal driving, just at wot. thats why the signal just bounces back an forward at regular driving and stays in the same place at WOT

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

I Think the AFR guage has some idiot light uses, but not many for tuning.

The ECU ignores the O2 sensors at WOT, and it ignores fuel trims. It does use it during closed loop mode to cycle AFR around 14.7:1 or similar depending on needs. Its only accurate in a VERY narrow range, thats why it cycles it.

The rear sensor is used to verifyu that the CAT is working, thats all. Its not there to save the cat. The front sesor will see the voltage cycling, if the ECU sees the same signal on the rear sensor it knows the car is defective or missing. If its flatline or cycles at a much lower amplitude, the ECU will assume the cat is working, thats why leaving the sensor plugged in and working but not in the exhaust stream will avoid cat system below eficiency threshold bank 1 DTCs.

Exactly.

An idjit is someone so dumb they can't spell idiot right.

 

[DSMJim]

i understand the rear cat part, thats why you can do the resistor mod to it to avoid a cel if you have no cat. but from everything ive seen on 2gnt, our cars dont look at the front o2 during normal driving, just at wot. thats why the signal just bounces back an forward at regular driving and stays in the same place at WOT

Unless your car is different from EVERY other car out there this is backwards. Your car at part throttle is closed loop. This is when your O2 sensors are being accessed and they adjust the air fuel ratio. The rear O2 sensor is only to measure catalist effeciency and trip a light if the cat is not doing it's job which is why you get an O2 light if you punch it.

When you goto WOT you go in open loop and your O2 sensors are totally ignored. This is why you can race with no O2 sensor and it doesn't matter. Your fuel and ignition table at WOT are not changed based on any type of O2 sensor reading. You can literally un plug your O2 sensor and your car will run exactly the same at WOT. As a matter of fact many cars are tuned exactly this way on a dyno. You pull the front O2 sensor and put in the wideband and tune the car at WOT. You can put the O2 sensor back in after the fact and it doesn't change any WOT A/F ratios at all because the O2 is totally ignored at WOT.

Many cars running full stand alone eliminate the O2 sensors completly and run open loop all the time on a pre-set map. This is kinda like what some people do with a AEM EMS. The program the computer to recgonize map pressure and make a table that changes fuel based on map pressure and TPS only. Some guys intergrate the O2 sensors back into the AEM and run closed loop for daily driving for better gas mileage. This is rare and typically required a lot more tuning so most guys don't pay for it at all.

Hope that helps...

 

[GSGoinFast]

Unless your car is different from EVERY other car out there this is backwards. Your car at part throttle is closed loop. This is when your O2 sensors are being accessed and they adjust the air fuel ratio. The rear O2 sensor is only to measure catalist effeciency and trip a light if the cat is not doing it's job which is why you get an O2 light if you punch it.

When you goto WOT you go in open loop and your O2 sensors are totally ignored. This is why you can race with no O2 sensor and it doesn't matter. Your fuel and ignition table at WOT are not changed based on any type of O2 sensor reading. You can literally un plug your O2 sensor and your car will run exactly the same at WOT. As a matter of fact many cars are tuned exactly this way on a dyno. You pull the front O2 sensor and put in the wideband and tune the car at WOT. You can put the O2 sensor back in after the fact and it doesn't change any WOT A/F ratios at all because the O2 is totally ignored at WOT.

Many cars running full stand alone eliminate the O2 sensors completly and run open loop all the time on a pre-set map. This is kinda like what some people do with a AEM EMS. The program the computer to recgonize map pressure and make a table that changes fuel based on map pressure and TPS only. Some guys intergrate the O2 sensors back into the AEM and run closed loop for daily driving for better gas mileage. This is rare and typically required a lot more tuning so most guys don't pay for it at all.

Hope that helps...

well i couldnt find where i read that on 2gnt, but youve never steered me wrong before so ill take your word on it.

 

[DSMJim]

Try and find it because I woudl be interested in the read. Sounds to me like more internet mis-information floating around.

I tune cars and work with a company that re-maps computers on other stock cars and they all work that way. I have also played with enough stand alone systems as well.