turbosax2
Moderator
- 4,481
- 668
- Nov 19, 2006
-
Mechanicsburg,
Pennsylvania
Step 1: remove engine - check
Step 2: identify all connectors - check
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...047-2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.html
Brian is on vacation now but will finish that up when he returns.
Step 3: remove dash - check
I took a bunch of pictures of the removal so I will be making a tech article when I get some free time. Removing the dash and hvac system wasn't hard at all - just took some patience.
Step 4: take measurements of both harnesses - I'm going to start this tonight.
Now you're all caught up.
Here are my plans for the rewire.
The fuse box will be bolted to the firewall inside the cabin. I've seen people relocate the fuse box to the glove box before, but that just wasn't really appealing to me. So I figured why not ditch the hvac, save some weight, and open up a ton of space to mount the fuse box. The plan is to be able to access the fuse box by dropping the glove box down (takes about 5 seconds).
The following connectors and their wiring will be eliminated:
1. Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) sensor
11. Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump (Cruise Control Actuator)
13. Fuel Pressure Solenoid (FPS) Valve
14. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Solenoid
16. Brake Fluid Level Switch
18. Hood Switch
19. Dual Pressure Switch (AC)
20. Capacitor (Noise Condenser)
27. Evaporative Purge Solenoid
28. Theft Alarm Horn (Anthony knows!)
30. Turbocharger Waste Gate Solenoid Valve [Boost Control Solenoid (BCS)]
35. EVAP Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve
36. Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor
43. Left Fog Light
44. Right Fog Light
52. Fuel Pump Check Connector
Rear o2 sensor
I may ditch abs, still undecided.
Before anyone asks, yes I know I will throw about a thousand check engine lights. No, I don't have any way to turn them off but I will get dsmlink in the future so it's cool for now. Also, I drive my car less than 5000 miles a year so I am exempt from emissions in PA. I can't afford to relocate my battery now but it is in the plans once I get more money.
The following will be relocated to the interior (probably mounted to the firewall inside the cabin):
7. Ignition Power Transistor
51. Ignition Suppression Resistor (Fuel Injector Resistor Box)
My goal is to avoid running any wires underneath the radiator. If you look at the pictures above you can see where the wires run into the cabin on the driver and passenger sides behind the fenders. I will be splitting the engine bay in half and running the wires on their respective sides.
I think that about covers it for now. I could get really fancy with this whole project and use mil spec wiring, expensive bulkhead connectors and fancy heat shrink but I don't see the need to spend the money for those sorts of things. Would it be nice? Sure, but I can't justify the costs right now. Also, I will be using wiring loom for the whole harness. It's nice to wrap the entire harness in electrical tape but I know for sure this harness will be changing with the addition of gauges, sensors, etc. so no use in making it hard for me to change. I also want the harness to be relatively easy to remove.
Please feel free to ask questions and leave comments!
Step 2: identify all connectors - check
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...047-2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.html
Brian is on vacation now but will finish that up when he returns.
Step 3: remove dash - check
I took a bunch of pictures of the removal so I will be making a tech article when I get some free time. Removing the dash and hvac system wasn't hard at all - just took some patience.
Step 4: take measurements of both harnesses - I'm going to start this tonight.
Now you're all caught up.
Here are my plans for the rewire.
The fuse box will be bolted to the firewall inside the cabin. I've seen people relocate the fuse box to the glove box before, but that just wasn't really appealing to me. So I figured why not ditch the hvac, save some weight, and open up a ton of space to mount the fuse box. The plan is to be able to access the fuse box by dropping the glove box down (takes about 5 seconds).
The following connectors and their wiring will be eliminated:
1. Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) sensor
11. Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump (Cruise Control Actuator)
13. Fuel Pressure Solenoid (FPS) Valve
14. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Solenoid
16. Brake Fluid Level Switch
18. Hood Switch
19. Dual Pressure Switch (AC)
20. Capacitor (Noise Condenser)
27. Evaporative Purge Solenoid
28. Theft Alarm Horn (Anthony knows!)
30. Turbocharger Waste Gate Solenoid Valve [Boost Control Solenoid (BCS)]
35. EVAP Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve
36. Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor
43. Left Fog Light
44. Right Fog Light
52. Fuel Pump Check Connector
Rear o2 sensor
I may ditch abs, still undecided.
Before anyone asks, yes I know I will throw about a thousand check engine lights. No, I don't have any way to turn them off but I will get dsmlink in the future so it's cool for now. Also, I drive my car less than 5000 miles a year so I am exempt from emissions in PA. I can't afford to relocate my battery now but it is in the plans once I get more money.
The following will be relocated to the interior (probably mounted to the firewall inside the cabin):
7. Ignition Power Transistor
51. Ignition Suppression Resistor (Fuel Injector Resistor Box)
My goal is to avoid running any wires underneath the radiator. If you look at the pictures above you can see where the wires run into the cabin on the driver and passenger sides behind the fenders. I will be splitting the engine bay in half and running the wires on their respective sides.
I think that about covers it for now. I could get really fancy with this whole project and use mil spec wiring, expensive bulkhead connectors and fancy heat shrink but I don't see the need to spend the money for those sorts of things. Would it be nice? Sure, but I can't justify the costs right now. Also, I will be using wiring loom for the whole harness. It's nice to wrap the entire harness in electrical tape but I know for sure this harness will be changing with the addition of gauges, sensors, etc. so no use in making it hard for me to change. I also want the harness to be relatively easy to remove.
Please feel free to ask questions and leave comments!
