Multi Layered Head gasket problem!

[rcarrier]

Hey , just got my engine back together, using the 4 layer head gasket, started it up, and everything was fine, then started it up the next day, and i got white smoke, the head gasket didnt seal, so i loosen it up, re-torque it, and restart the engine today, it done fine , so i shut it off, and when i start it back , same thing white smoke,gasket leaking.
Is there any of you all that have dealt with the 4 layer head gasket, is there a trick to getting it to seal , thks !!

 

[1fast97gsx]

was your head and block decked? Did you use the copper spray? Arps? Correct torque sequence? How much torque?

 

[99gst_racer]

There is a product that you can get in an aresol (sp?) can called Hylomar. Many of my engine builder customers use it to seal copper and MLS head gaskets. It is an excellent product and it's made by Valco. Check into it.

 

[anconover]

if you didnt get the head and block to a real smooth finish, metal headgaskets can be a TOTAL pita to get to 100% seal. i started pushing coolant after 3,000miles on mine, used copper spray wich is a big help, but wasnt enough.

 

[92redman]

if you didnt get the head and block to a real smooth finish, metal headgaskets can be a TOTAL pita to get to 100% seal. i started pushing coolant after 3,000miles on mine, used copper spray wich is a big help, but wasnt enough.

do you know what type of resurfacer was used on your block?

 

[rcarrier]

was your head and block decked? Did you use the copper spray? Arps? Correct torque sequence? How much torque?

Yes i used arp studs, torqued on 80 lbs, the head and block were decked, and sanded to a smooth finish!

 

[rcarrier]

I was talking to the guy at the machine shop, he recommended using almu-seal, which goes in the coolant, he says it will seal any small gaps that are there, anyone else used anything like this?

 

[Lunch_Box]

If it is still being a pain you could try the new cometic HP head gasket, it is o-ringed so it should solve you problems.

 

[lowridin2g]

I was talking to the guy at the machine shop, he recommended using almu-seal, which goes in the coolant, he says it will seal any small gaps that are there, anyone else used anything like this?

tell me how much your water pump and heater core will like that stuff gunking everything up

 

[jott5555]

ya dont use any coolant sealer crap like barqs leak or ne thing.. mabey try going with a normal oem style head gasket.. make sure you are torqueing them in the proper sequence. and i would do 85 ft lbs. let the car run for like 10-15 min and dont drive it just idle it.. do a compression test after you shut it down to see if your head gasket is leaking. and to see what your compression is.

good luck.

 

[rcarrier]

Thks guys, i didnt want to put any leak sealer in my new engine, i am going to replace the head gasket tommorow, with oem and see how it works, i never had a problem with them before, i will let everyone know, thks again for all the help!

 

[sonicnofadz]

I use an OEM gasket up to 25 psi (with arps of course) and I have never encountered any problems. I keep hearing about people that have problems with these metal gaskets, its a shame they are such a pita to seal sometimes. Good luck with the head gasket install, always a favorite of mine

 

[anconover]

i had a tool i used, a lapping tool. A supra owner had made/selling them. Its a square heavy block, you use a special compound, and basically just go in a certain pattern over the block/head and you can get it to 20RA (like glass). Theyre pricey tho, around 250$ i think they are, if i can find the site ill post it, but i recommend staying with composites with ARPs, even spray the composite if youd like, mine held 25psi for a very long time, and later blew because a torn wire that arced and im lucky i ONLY blew the hg.

 

[joeracer321]

I am having a suspected problem with the Cometic HP gasket. Car runs fine, idles great, only right after I let off after going into boost, I get a huge cloud of white smoke. I am running straight water right now, and the smoke is oderless, so I am pretty sure it is water I am burning. Also my upper hose swells a bit more than what seems normal, but I don't blow the pressure relief on the cap. I retorqued the gasket but it did the same thing. My head and block were both decked and everything was extremely clean, so at this point I would not recomend this gasket to anyone.

 

[Scrymerr]

I used a mitsu 4 layer when I had my head rebuilt. The block was not decked. Comp. is great, and I have put over 5000 miles on it so far.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

I'll give you guys my MLS head gasket story. I ripped my head off in Dec. 02, in prep for all the big parts (FP Green, 272's, FMIC, blah blah blah). I simply took a razor blade and scraped all the old gasket material I could off of the head and block. I put everything back together, and ran the car for about 9 mos. like this, 25psi, ARP's, no problems. I cranked it up to 30psi on race gas and popped the HG on the 2nd pull.

I ended up pulling the head off the following winter (2003), and took it to a machine shop to get surfaced in preperation of redoing another MLS gasket. I took some 3M Bristle brushes and got the block as close to a mirror shine as I could. The shop said I had a few indentations in the head that caused the HG to blow in 3 spots. After I got the head decked, and surfaced the block, I threw everything back together. I prolly made 6-7 30psi passes on the motor, and didn't push a single drop of coolant.

I believe it's ALL about the decking of the head and excellent block prep to getting an MLS gasket to seal. Also, torque the head down to 95ft/lbs if you are using the ARP moly-lube. 105-110ft/lbs if you are using Mobil 1 to lubricate the threads. Torque in 3 steps: 25ft/lbs, 50ft/lbs, then final torque setting. Drive car around teh block a few times, yank the valve cover, and retorque one more time.

 

[diambo4life]

I believe it's ALL about the decking of the head and excellent block prep to getting an MLS gasket to seal. Also, torque the head down to 95ft/lbs if you are using the ARP moly-lube. 105-110ft/lbs if you are using Mobil 1 to lubricate the threads. Torque in 3 steps: 25ft/lbs, 50ft/lbs, then final torque setting. Drive car around teh block a few times, yank the valve cover, and retorque one more time.

Bingo!

 

[TSIfreek]

I would only recomend torqing the head studs to 80 FT LBS with ARP moly ONLY because that is there strech point and if they are over streched they are junk. If you are using motor oil use ONLY 10w30 non detergent and 100 FT lbs of torque. Torquing the head more than this will just destort the cylinder walls among other things. It does not seal the head gasket more.
Others may disagree but its not how it works.
Having both the block and head machined perfect and clean is the only RIGHT way (to seal a metal HG) to do this I dont care what you guys think. There is no other way around it. Sorry for the bashing, but I am just tired of others with there bright ideas that are wrong.

 

['93EclipseGSX]

I run the mitsu 4 layer metal hg, with no sealing products. I just had the block decked and the head resurfaced when I did the rebuild. Both surfaces being completely flush is key. I also know people who have used the same hg with the copper spay recently and so far so good(3k ago).

Rob

 

[diambo4life]

Sorry for the bashing, but I am just tired of others with there bright ideas that are wrong.

That's fine. You do make a point with the cylinder distortion and we all know it's a factor, However, I have been running mine for almost 8 months and I have pulled the head several times and I have run 28psi on the stock HG with no problems. I also had solid compression across. Also, a guy who traps 150mph does almost the thing with his ARP's and stock HG running 34psi on a humongous turbo, so I think I will be fine and so will the rest of the guys.

I personally would never advocate the use of regular engine oil to torque the studs. Thats just me.

 

[DSMJim]

I use an OEM gasket up to 25 psi (with arps of course) and I have never encountered any problems. I keep hearing about people that have problems with these metal gaskets, its a shame they are such a pita to seal sometimes. Good luck with the head gasket install, always a favorite of mine

I ran my car to 25psi without ARPs and didn't instantly blow the HG. After a full day at the track with 25-26psi the car started to push a bit of coolant and later on we realized the HG was leaking slightly. My car however was ready to launch the HG anyway so the 25-26psi day was just the last nail in the coffin. It did last however.

 

[GPTourer]

I believe it's ALL about the decking of the head and excellent block prep to getting an MLS gasket to seal. Also, torque the head down to 95ft/lbs if you are using the ARP moly-lube. 105-110ft/lbs if you are using Mobil 1 to lubricate the threads. Torque in 3 steps: 25ft/lbs, 50ft/lbs, then final torque setting. Drive car around teh block a few times, yank the valve cover, and retorque one more time.

If you are using ARP's with a OEM gasket, is it still necessary to pull the valve cover and retorque after driving it a while?

 

[anconover]

yes.