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Most successful built seven bolts?

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Da Dymer said:
True..its def not a "for sure" thing.....id prefer a 6-bolt myself, but im short on cash, so im just goin to rebuild my 7-bolt, (avoiding the expense of the swap kit from slow boy)...hoping it holds up like it has.....by the way...do they make fluid dampeners for our cars.....i dont wanna risk another oem one..and having this happen again
Hey, man... don't worry about that kit from Slowboy. I got my 6-bolt out of a '92 and it came with everything I need for the swap. Just follow Magnus. If you think about it... you already have the 2g stuff. Plus, the 6-bolt stuff you need should be replaced anyway when rebuilding a block, so when you think about it... there is no lose at all. Just extra time in labor and wiring. Yeah, I'm scared about that, but I'll get it. The only site I can think of that has what you want is: http://www.fluidampr.com but they don't have one for our car at the time. Contact them and see what they say. They might know of someone who does. :dsm:
 
Da Dymer said:
Actually come to think of it...when i rebuilt my motor...the bearing were a little out of spec, and we replaced the crank sensor...also prior to the rebuild...my clutch pedal would stick a little while making turns......but these were all problems prior to putting the MBCAD kit in...i never had a problem with the clutch or crank sensor after the rebuild ...durring the rebuild, i did get a new oem crank (just for the hell of it..spare laying around) and all new clevite bearings
That's pretty convincing. PM me down the road or do a test with them and post the results. Lots of people ask about that kit, but no one has come forward with any results. That would be helpful to a lot of people. Just a thought. :dsm:
 
My 7 bolt didn't crank walk when it took a sh*t, I spund a rod bearing. I threw a new set of crank and rod bearings in, but the same rod spun again shortly after. I knew I had a bad rod at that point. So I tore the motor down and threw away the rotating assembly and built a 2.3L stroker. I have boosted it to 35 PSI and so far no problems. I did destroy a flex plate, so I pulled the trans and decided to go through it while it was apart, but my trans guy has been sitting on his thumbs. It was supposed to be done last wed. but more than a week it is still not done. I was assured it would be done tommorow so hopefully I can have my car back together this weekend for more testing. I also got my new 8.5" converter and I am looking forward to see how it launches with it. And now I can manually lock the TC up with the dual disk lock up clutch. :thumb:
 
my stock 7 bolt had a hard life..

oil filter came off dropping all the oil.
over heated beyond the gauge and driven for 10+ miles like that
had a "tick" for almost 10,000 miles after the oil incident.

{off story}
eventually I replaced the motor with a rebuilt 6 bolt.. within 200 miles it locked up, spun a rod bearing. rebuilt it and 250 miles later started rod knock. replaced the bearings about 100 miles later crankwalked!! yeah this was a 6 bolt. come to find out that block had issues with oiling correctly.
{on story}

I pull the oil pan the other day the bearings in the 7 bolt looked brand new it didn't have an ounce of crankwalk. the bottom end was perfect.. #4 wristpin was damaged in the oil draining and caused piston slap.

.............................................................................................................................


I currently have a car at my house, my freind bought the car for $3,000 knowing it had motor problems, 95 GST. He was told it had a 16g, crower cams, FMIC, and various gauges.

I get the car and start working on it. drop the oil pan, it has eagle rods, JE pistons both looked no more than 1,000 miles old. BS elimination, Possibly a shep tranny (alumablast painted) aftermarket clutch (not sure haven't pulled tranny yet)..

But it has the worst crankwalk I have seen the thrust bearing clutch side was gone and ate prolly 1/16" out of the block and crank. So Why the hell did someone recently install all those parts on a motor that was THAT messed up.
 
Red97Eclipseboy said:
Hey, man... don't worry about that kit from Slowboy. I got my 6-bolt out of a '92 and it came with everything I need for the swap. Just follow Magnus. If you think about it... you already have the 2g stuff. Plus, the 6-bolt stuff you need should be replaced anyway when rebuilding a block, so when you think about it... there is no lose at all. Just extra time in labor and wiring. Yeah, I'm scared about that, but I'll get it. The only site I can think of that has what you want is: http://www.fluidampr.com but they don't have one for our car at the time. Contact them and see what they say. They might know of someone who does. :dsm:

Can you use a 6 bolt bottem end, with a 2g head...i dont wanna sacrifice the head cause its been ported extensively, not to mention the 2g magnus intake manifold....i have it set up with a second set of injectors and all hard lines....the fabrication alone cost about 700 bucks to get everything tied together.....and how about the clutch....im guessing my current one wouldn't match up :confused:
 
I have a 2.4l 7-bolt making 660whp and ran 10.4 (breaking 4th gear during that run) in my heavy 2G. My old 2.0l 7-bolt was running around 490whp until the stupid water cooled oil filter housing backed off and I lost all the oil causing the motor to put a rod through the block. I don't have a lot of miles on the motor though, something else usually breaks before I get a chance to crankwalk. I am going to run some real boost this year hopefully and try to go faster and see if the crank holds up. My 2.4l is stock bore(so really a 2.35l), I spent $200 on the block and then $150 total on machine work and balancing, so it isn't exactly some super motor. I was cheap and wanted to use all my parts like the oil pump assembly from my old 2.0l, that is why I went that route.
 
"Slowboy, Diamondstarmotor, etc... don't even like to touch 7-bolts."


When i recently rebuilt my 7 bolt i conversed with Nate from slowboy. He helped me with torque specs and such and he has given me many succesful 7 bolt rebuilds stories, and numbers(as long as oil squirters were removed). I have been dealing with them since it was just Mike Huml in his basement. Like many people i have a knack for problem solving, the 7bolt is one of the biggest problems dsm's have seeing that they tend to have a massive engine failure problem, but you cant just run away from your problems understanding them and defeating them is much more worth it, also saying you just got beat by a 7bolt hopefully will be the new rivalry between DSMers. The fact that they dont lke to touch them is just because they are running a business not a charity, if that were the ocassiom sure they would be more then happy to put countless hours into a possible time bomb.
 
Red97Eclipseboy said:
What? Yeah... everytime something goes wrong people blame crank walk. Either you have it or you don't... so if you don't, how can you blame it? I've never seen anyone on here blame something on crank walk when their car wasn't walking. Oh, and unless you have had crankwalk, please stop saying that crank walk "overrated". After the hassles of my motor walking and all this shit, it's a bi*** and a big hole in the wallet. Gee, I wonder why people who have a 7-bolt that walks, go for a 6-bolt? I hope you're not that stupid. Slowboy, Diamondstarmotor, etc... don't even like to touch 7-bolts. They recomend right in their site for 2g guys to use 6-bolts for, my I quote, "crank walk assurance". What do they know? I guess 6-bolts are "overrated". :::sigh:::


Two 7 bolts walked on him, pretty sure he knows what he is talking about. By overated, he means people jump the gun and think CW everytime something goes wrong. It happens all the time on here and other boards. There are those who didn't walk but thoght they did cause they didn't know any better. But they will tell people that they CW, and it goes down as another victim. It is overated in my opinion also, people worry about it way to much.
 
my old eclipse walked, the talon that i have now walked, my brother in law's car just walked as well. There is a local thats running 11s with his stock 7 bolt and the car has seen over 400 passes. another one is doing low 12s with like 450 passes on his stock 7 bolt.
Me on the other side i've never had any luck with 7 bolts and thats why im moving to a 6 bolt and so is my brother in law.
 
theres a guy around here that put down 550 who on stock 7 bolt bottom and ran like a 11.03 with it. This is on a fwd 2g, with a t4 turbo.
 
I personally prefer a 7 bolt because its what came in my car. My car has 105k miles or so on it and I put down 350 at the wheels at 15 psi on a green. Now I have a fully built motor and am hoping for some impressive numbers on it. I know I wont be to impressive with a green, well they will be good once I bring my car back to FP to get it tuned again. But I want a fp 3575 or something of that nature to really get the times and numbers I want. All the shops I have been working with told me to swap to a 6 bolt, but I just wont because I, like others on this site, belive that 6 bolts and "crankwalk" is way overrated. I have honestly never heard of more then a hand full of people who really did have crankwalk, and if you think about all the 7 bolts out there, and only really hearing of such low number of people who have had crankwalk, then why bother? Crankwalk can happen in any car at any time, but people throw it out of porportion on dsms. My personal opinion is #### 6 bolts, 7 bolts all the way. :thumb:
 
I'd say Russ Coxe is the most successful when referring to the most power through a 7bolt. He was running mid 9s...
 
madquickyo said:
I personally prefer a 7 bolt because its what came in my car. My car has 105k miles or so on it and I put down 350 at the wheels at 15 psi on a green. Now I have a fully built motor and am hoping for some impressive numbers on it. I know I wont be to impressive with a green, well they will be good once I bring my car back to FP to get it tuned again. But I want a fp 3575 or something of that nature to really get the times and numbers I want. All the shops I have been working with told me to swap to a 6 bolt, but I just wont because I, like others on this site, belive that 6 bolts and "crankwalk" is way overrated. I have honestly never heard of more then a hand full of people who really did have crankwalk, and if you think about all the 7 bolts out there, and only really hearing of such low number of people who have had crankwalk, then why bother? Crankwalk can happen in any car at any time, but people throw it out of porportion on dsms. My personal opinion is #### 6 bolts, 7 bolts all the way. :thumb:

I agree with you up until u said built motor, if youre goign to build it, then getting a 6 bolt is pretty mighty insurance, more than a few 7 bolts crankwalked right after being built with the good stuff.
 
I have a built 1g 7 bolt. Bin threw various states of tune. I'm at 400 awhp for almost a year now. Plus I have like 35,000 miles on it. I think crankwalk is very highly overated.
Im planning on building a 7 bolt 2.4 this spring. ;)
 
7 bolts are capable of making serious power just like a 6 bolt. Even stock 7 bolts have put 400+ hp to the ground.

That being said, I have walked 3 different 7 bolt blocks. My first walk was at ~60k. I had it rebuilt (at the time I was unaware of the chronic cw problems associated with 7 bolts... I didnt even know what a 7 bolt). Less than 10k later the second block began to walk (CAS went out). I had that rebuilt under warranty from the first rebuild. Satan gave me a "revised" 7 bolt block that is now beginning to walk again. Needless to say, when the 50 trim kills this motor Im going 6 bolt. If I have the money I may go with a destroked 4g64 2.1L.

As a note the first two walked motors occured when the car was still stock. The motor that is now walking (in my car now) has 40k miles with an ACT2600.

Anyone who thinks that 2g owners are parnoid, have no idea what it feels like to lose 3 motors to a mitsubishi engineering error...
 
Red97Eclipseboy said:
What? Yeah... everytime something goes wrong people blame crank walk. Either you have it or you don't... so if you don't, how can you blame it? I've never seen anyone on here blame something on crank walk when their car wasn't walking. Oh, and unless you have had crankwalk, please stop saying that crank walk "overrated". After the hassles of my motor walking and all this shit, it's a bi*** and a big hole in the wallet. Gee, I wonder why people who have a 7-bolt that walks, go for a 6-bolt? I hope you're not that stupid. Slowboy, Diamondstarmotor, etc... don't even like to touch 7-bolts. They recomend right in their site for 2g guys to use 6-bolts for, my I quote, "crank walk assurance". What do they know? I guess 6-bolts are "overrated". :::sigh:::


First off I am on my 4th dsm. 2 of them walked. Yes they were tested for crankwalk so I know for a fact that was the problem. Second, Do a search on any dsm forum. You will see a million and one post on people asking " Do I have crankwalk ?" In every thread you will have atleast one person who doesnt know any better like yourself saying " yeah dude thats crankwalk, run right out and get a 6 bolt" They are several ways a motor can die. You can have crankwalk and not even know it. Do you think when your motor has crankwalk walk that it just all of a sudden stops working ? LOL . My gsx actually ran pretty damn good with it. Like BigBald said, the number of crankwalk victims should not be that high .Alot of people that claim to have had it , never did.

So like i said. Crankwalk is way overrated. Bigbald good luck running 10's this yr on your 7 bolt.
 
For those of you that have had crankwalk, or know when it is setting in, as it is starting to walk. How do you know it is walking, as in explanation of how to check if it is crankwalking? Buschur told me what to check for but I would like to hear what everyone checks for? I think to actually be able to tell if a motor is walking without looking in the motor is extremely difficult, so I'd like to hear how you guys know?
 
97TSIAWD said:
For those of you that have had crankwalk, or know when it is setting in, as it is starting to walk. How do you know it is walking, as in explanation of how to check if it is crankwalking? Buschur told me what to check for but I would like to hear what everyone checks for? I think to actually be able to tell if a motor is walking without looking in the motor is extremely difficult, so I'd like to hear how you guys know?

Symptoms that I have experienced:
1. Tapping noise when the clutch is depressed
2. Clutch gets stuck to the floor when changing gears during a turn.
3. CAS fails.
4. Crank play will be out of spec.

The only way to really know if you have CW is to drop your oil pan.

Remy said:
First off I am on my 4th dsm. 2 of them walked. Yes they were tested for crankwalk so I know for a fact that was the problem. Second, Do a search on any dsm forum. You will see a million and one post on people asking " Do I have crankwalk ?" In every thread you will have atleast one person who doesnt know any better like yourself saying " yeah dude thats crankwalk, run right out and get a 6 bolt" They are several ways a motor can die. You can have crankwalk and not even know it. Do you think when your motor has crankwalk walk that it just all of a sudden stops working ? LOL . My gsx actually ran pretty damn good with it. Like BigBald said, the number of crankwalk victims should not be that high .Alot of people that claim to have had it , never did.[QUOTE

So like i said. Crankwalk is way overrated. Bigbald good luck running 10's this yr on your 7 bolt.

How can someone who has had half of his dsm's walk on him say that crank walk is over rated?
 
I see, Buschur when I saw him down at the GN Nationals at Bowling Green said to push in the clutch and look at the oil pressure. I forget what he said but the oil pressure will fluctuate in some way if the motor is starting to crankwalk. I guess this has to go along with the oil-squirter theory so I'm not sure about the 100% validity of this method. I've always heard of the others, and of course of the one where the car will shut down on a sharp left turn, it will stall or something similar, I believe it is a left turn it may be right. Fortunately I've never seen any symptoms and my can runs very consistantly. I always plan to go to a 6bolt should anything happen, maybe even a stroker, ohhh. It's interesting to learn of other sucessful 7bolts though that are running faster than I am.
 
Turbocharged said:
Symptoms that I have experienced:

How can someone who has had half of his dsm's walk on him say that crank walk is over rated?

Yes because i bought it like that . Blown motor = cheap dsm :thumb:

95 gsx I didnt know it had it until i went to Turbo Trix to have it tested.
95 Gs-t I bought it with CW on purpose.
95 talon bought it with no motor.

I know a shit load of people with 2g's running fast times on 7 bolts in my area. I am sure alot of others can do the same. But threads like this get people all nervous .They start buying 6 bolt blocks before anything ever happens to their 7 bolts. Pretty dumb imo.
 
An easy way to check for CW is to push the crank pulley in by kicking it or hitting it with a hammer or anything and then have someone push on your cluch while you have your hands on the crank pulley. you will actually feel the pulley moving out
 
Why intentially use a motor with smaller journals if you are going through the trouble of rebuilding it?

Crankwalk is not "overrated", about half the 2Gs I have come into the shop have excessive thrust play that is out of the service limit.

Meausre thrust movement with a dial inicator on the crank pulley, a magnetic base can attach to the cars body.
 
In reference to the Fluidampr question earlier, I e-mailed them a couple of weeks ago and they said they had a 4G63 dampener pulley in development and should be available in "a couple of months". Their other puleys cost around $300, so I would suspect this one would be about the same price range.
 
This is a funny thread, listen to the people that actually know what they are talking about.. My 95 was an early build 95 the ones that ARENT soposed to get crankwalk but hey guess what it did soon after i installed an ACT 2600. I broke 2 Crank angle sensors and then dropped my oil pan and checked for play and sure enough the crank was way out of spec. Now i didnt have money at the time so i drove the crap outta that motor for 1.5 years after i knew i had crankwalk. I ran multiple High 12s with a crankwalking motor. I then sold the motor to this guy with an AUTO gsx and told him it had crankwalk but he still said he wanted it to build it up. Guess what still to this day that motor is running with crankwalk in that guys Auto gsx with 144K on the clock. I used to work for Mitsubishi and we had 2-3 cases of crankwalk each every other week. It is my personal opinion that i believe most of you 2g guys do have some sort of crankwalk and dont even know it. If half of you guys actually checked your crank play specs with a feeler gauge im sure you will be surprised. It doesnt matter if you have driven it hard for 10-20 or 30 K miles and say you dont have it. You cant know if you have it just by putting miles on your motor unless its a servere case and making that horrible noise. But it doesnt really matter anyways as ive seen hundreds of crankwalk threads and people will keep arguing back and fourth Experience vs benchracers. Hopefully you guys will not have to go through the hardships and expenses that most of us have gone through with 7bolts becuase crankwalk is NOT overrated.
 
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