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Beat95GST

10+ Year Contributor
73
0
Oct 14, 2009
Tulare, California
Man, this car keeps getting worse and worse. So, I pull the alternator, engine bright under there to try and find the leak. I end up finding it, oil running down the J pipe, so I look up under the drain of the turbo and see a bolt missing, I shine the drop light in there, and guess what? The freakin bolt was broken off in the center section. Dude that sold it said that someone told him the turbo gasket needed to be replaced, ugh... I mean, I planned on doing the evo 3 16g conversion but 3 days into owning it? Probably not... I changed the oil, fired it up, and the charging system was back in business! Filled the coolant again, no battery light, coolant (birdcage) light, or brake light now on the dash. I took it for a quick spin with the wife (for the first time) around the block and the headlights are nice and bright (still have to figure out why I have no high-beam). Came back, a little more oil on the drain pipe (not TOO bad, just enough to coat the pan back). Anyway, anyone have a good connection for the 16g I'm looking for? I would like a direct bolt on setup, and preferribly NOT the 14b or T25. Time for bed, it's nearly midnight.
 
Well first you would need to do some supporting mods. Before upgrading to a bigger turbo. But the big t28 is the only upgrade that is a direct drop in for your car.
 
Doesn't sound too bad. Just replace the bolts on your oil return line. Or yours might be cracked like mine and might need to replace it. Nothing a little trip to a junkyard won't fix. Radiator light could be on because you might need to add coolant or replace your temp sensor, as for your headlights you might have a blown fuse or blown bulbs. Try the easy stuff first.
 
No more coolant light, brake light, or battery light. The alternator now works. =)
As for the turbo leak out of the drain, the bolt was snapped off in the turbo, so no replacing bolts there, I'd have to drill and try to easy out that sucker. What's the story with the T28? What car(s) did that unit come off of?
 
T28's use the t25 shell and have better internals. Quick spool time with comparable power to a 16g. It's not as good as a 16g, but it's fairly close. Good upgrade if you don't plan on running more than 21psi or autocross.
 
if you can get a couple of good small new drill bits, I would try that for the bolt that is broken off. Start by using a punch to give you a starting point. Then use the smallest drill bit and then the little bit bigger one. Use the easy out and you could probably get that sucker right out. Not like those are torqued down very tight either. It's a pain in the butt, but it can be done.
 
What exactly is involved in installing a 16g on a 2g? I see more people selling 16g's than t28's which is why I'm asking. I will upgrade to 550cc injectors and 190lph setup utilizing the stock FPR. Keep it mild and "reliable" for the wife.
 
What exactly is involved in installing a 16g on a 2g? I see more people selling 16g's than t28's which is why I'm asking. I will upgrade to 550cc injectors and 190lph setup utilizing the stock FPR. Keep it mild and "reliable" for the wife.

you dont necessarily NEED to upgrade your fuel system just because you put on a 16g, just don't turn up the boost! the wastegate actuator on the 16g will control boost at 10psi which your stock fuel system can handle until you decide to upgrade it, thats when you can turn up the boost. 550cc injectors (or evo VIII/IV injectors for A LOT less) a 190 fp (or an evo VIII/IV fp for A LOT less) and a way to control fuel... recommend dsmlink.

all thats needed is a 16g install kit which you will find on about every single vendor site here on tuners. i used the RRE 16g install kit and i did it in a few hours... http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g16ginstallkit.htm

:dsm:
 
id say go for the FP 68HTA ... its an evo16G with the same power as a 20G ... supposedly anyway... all for $900 bucks.....

this is forced performance replacement for their 18G turbo...
 
I wanted to swap the front end to a 97-99 big mouth style and move the intercooler. Apparently that's legal with the "stock" turbo, so it needs to stay as close to stock looking as possible (although with the heat shield, etc it would honestly be hard to tell. I just can't change the manifold to some gnarly tubular unit with a T3/T4 flange on it. LOL. What would be involved in installing a FMIC with the 16g?
 
...nothing... the only thing that changes is the routing of your lower IC pipes and some front bumper trimming. you can make a 2g look STOCK with a 16g and a front mount with the hood popped.

16g installed
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black anodized FMIC
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cop pops the hood and goes :confused: stock :confused:

:dsm:
 
Well, mine is more wanting to keep it "stock" looking for California visual (smog drama). They're hardasses, we can change intercoolers if the turbo is "stock", and BOV is recirculating, otherwise you fail. Beautiful car, is that yours? Mine is red also, I'm gonna keep the picture, that thing looks amazing.
 
BTW, where the F did you get your radiator hose? The one that's on it looks like a cut to fit that was half assed, and the on I just bought is the same way, way too long and cut to fit but looks like it should be angled to the right more for the neck.
 
I got the broken bolt out! Fixed that problem but under boost it's blue smoke for a second, guess the seals in the turbo are done. Looks to be original with 132k on it so I figure it's finished, guess I will be investing the $ in a 16g afterall. For some reason idling there is a light amount of white smoke and after hot rodding it right now to get gas, it blew the upper radiator hose off. The head was JUST rebuilt, surface and reinstalled, possibly a crack in the block? Again, the guy I got it from knew just about nothing, I got it for cheap, but this is getting ridiculous. Wasn't planning on doing a 6 bolt conversion just yet but Jeez... Might as well do that and an AWD conversion too, LOL. If I only had the $.
 
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