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Missing & hesitation problems

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rocafellafw

15+ Year Contributor
357
0
Dec 24, 2008
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Problem seemed to have started after installing my new o2 sensor, but may not have been the cause. The problem is the worst when the temps are less then 190º, but even after fully warmed up still occurs slightly. It also seems to clear up under boost, so really only occurs under light throttle, it hiccups, hesitates, jerks slightly and feels like timing is being pulled badly (or running REALLY rich), but when I get past about 4-5 psi it clears up (or so it feels ?) I've read about the CTS (coolant temp sending unit) being a culprit to people running rich so I want to look into that but I do not know which of the 3 plugs it is (1g swap), would this cause a CEL ? Here are some more notes:

New Plugs (bp6's gapped to .27)
New Wires (NGK) (light grey tips, look fine)
New o2 Sensor (rear o2 is just unplugged)
New PCV
New Knock Sensor
MAF is ok
Completly rebuilt TB (less then 1k miles)
Boost leak test is showing small o-ring injector leaks that's all
BOV is recirculated
My clutch sucks, new MS, bled properly and pedal is adjusted and still has barely any pressure also the engagement point is all the way down near the floor at about 85%
TPS may be bad, I have another I'm going to swap it with
Pulling -16 Hg's at idle
Stock Fuel system n boost
CEL's- P1500 (Alternator), MDP Failure (because of the swap ?), FPS Failure (?)



The next couple things I'm going to do are
Swap MAF
Another BLT
Swap TPS's
Log the trims and timing as the problem is occuring

Any leads would be appreciated :thumb:
 
coolant temperature sensor (ect) . It determines when to send the ecm into closed loop operation (when it warms up). It changes the air fuel ratio according to the temperature of the coolant. See if its damaged, or test it. Just an idea.
 
And Im not sure if your car has a seperate sending unit for the gauge, but on many vehicles there is both a sensor (for the ecm) and a sending unit (for the gauge) if you have an option, get the sensor, not the sending unit.
 
That's what it feels like, like the car never comes out of the warm-up cycle. I have the stock gauge unit replaced with a autometer one. I have a 6-bolt swap so which ect would I buy if it were damaged ?
On my t-stat housing I have four sensors which is the ect ?
 
Here is a picture I snapped of my t-stat housing and the four sensors, which of these colored dots on a 1g engine is the ECT ?

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Red, Blue, Green, or Yeller ?
 
check the wires on the black plug next to that sensor because my wires broke on that plug which made my car do the same thing. its throwing off the cold start system. it will make your car run really bad until it warms up. its running really rich if thats it
 
The blue dot is the sending unit to the gauge cluster and the yeller is to your ecm. It is the two prong sensor that you need to worry about. They're pretty cheap and available at most auto part stores.

Pete
 
The blue dot is the sending unit to the gauge cluster and the yeller is to your ecm. It is the two prong sensor that you need to worry about. They're pretty cheap and available at most auto part stores.

Pete

Are you sure it's the yellow dot and not the green ? The green dot I highlighted is the same as this:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542278-post39.html
and that's the ECT. I've had the yellow sensor unplugged since I had the car wouldn't I have noticed problem before ?
Red goes to my autometer water temp gauge
Green is hooked up which I thought was the ECT
Yellow has never been hooked up
& Blue I thought was my radiator switch
 
Need someone to verify the location of the ECT. The wires coming out of the black plug look ok, not gettin any coolant CEL's but I'll replace it if somebody can tell me what to take out.
 
Here is a picture I snapped of my t-stat housing and the four sensors, which of these colored dots on a 1g engine is the ECT ?

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Red, Blue, Green, or Yeller ?

On a 1g, it is the sensor with the " I_ " looking connector. I am unsure of the 2g connection.

Pete
 
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