Mechanical Tensioner

[95TalonOwner]

Check it out.

Mechanical instead of hydraulic.

VIN 'C' and 'Y' Chrysler / Mitsubishi 2.0 Mechanical Timing Tensioner ONLY by Litens

 

[Styles]

Thats what i used when i did my rebuild last year. No problems so far

 

[95TalonOwner]

That's great to know. I think I might go with that setup then.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I have one too... it's been running great for about two years now.

 

[Illmat1c]

I thought of doing one but always thought it would bind up but no ones had that problem?

 

[totaleclipse_05]

That part has been around for years. I used one on my eclipse when I did the headgasket and it was easy to change. I don't think I have heard a bad thing about those.

 

[TalonESIT]

I saw this over at Partsdinosaur.com:

VIN 'Y' 2.0 DOHC 420A Timing Belt & Tensioner KIT Avenger, Breeze, Eclipse, Neon, Sebring, Stratus, Talon Mechanical conversion package

it replaces the hydraulic version and it seems like a very good idea, what do you guys think?

It also included a step by step to help show the install.

420A Mechanical Conversion Kit Images

I have ordered this conversion, I hope it makes the install as easy as they state. I can't imagine why partsdinosaur would try to steer us wrong =)

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Somebody just started a thread on this very topic. I have a mechanical tensioner and I like it. I think it was easy to install and has proven reliable thus far. Others have had different, contradictory experiences.

 

[TalonESIT]

Don't mean to start a double thread my fault Paul. You can close this one or merge it I can post feedback later once I install it.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Never mind, I must be thinking of 2GNT... carry on.

 

[TalonESIT]

What exactly is involved in the installation of this? I don't get how I tighten it, can someone give me a brief rundown on how this works and how I install it?


And for the record I have to highly recommend parts dinosaur... He returns personal e-mails to all his customers and he even adjusted the price of my product, dealing with the shipping price, because it would save me money. Doesn't get much more honest than that. I know I'm not too credible of a source, but I just wanted to add that.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

It bolts up to where the old tensioner and tensioner pulley did. It's been a while, but to tighten it you loosen the nut on the pulley, set the device by turning the metal cam disk with a 1/4" ratchet, then torque the nut to 22ft/lbs. I admit the directions were slightly confusing, but that's the gist of it. Double check that torque number too.

 

[KazooGS-T]

I have heard a few bad stories of how their mechanical setup failed on them, why not just buy a new hydraulic tensioner?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I have heard a few bad stories of how their mechanical setup failed on them, why not just buy a new hydraulic tensioner?

I can't imagine this thing failing. From what I've researched, it sounds like the people who had it fail on them also had a hard time with the installation... interesting, no? I like the concept of equal tension on the timing belt across the RPM range, plus it was cheaper than a hydraulic tensioner.

 

[KazooGS-T]

True enough, (talonesit) do a write-up on how to install it so that others won't have a hard time understanding; after you get yours put on. When I was buying parts for my motor, I researched the tensioner and heard a couple of good things and numerous bad things so I just opted out and bought a new hydraulic to be safe.

 

[Ravenous]

Haven't bad hydraulic tensioners been the cause of a lot of problems. Isn't that why we replace them so frequently? Sounds like a good idea to me, I wish somebody would make one for the 4G63, maybe a bit heavier duty.

 

[TalonESIT]

Haven't bad hydraulic tensioners been the cause of a lot of problems. Isn't that why we replace them so frequently? Sounds like a good idea to me, I wish somebody would make one for the 4G63, maybe a bit heavier duty.

That's why I was thinking that a mechanical tensioner would be a good investment. I mean there are quite a few people who have no problem with their hydraulic tensioner, when installed correctly. What I found interesting about the mechanical tensioner was the whole concept of just dealing with the pulley to adjust; instead of positioning the hydraulic tensioner, holding it in place/sliding it up while torquing the pulley and that whole deal. Seems like less room for human error. I have been seeing quite a few threads about people with snapped belts or slipped teeth. The slipped teeth I understood because of not properly tightening the timing belt, over time the belt could flail loose or even due to hydraulic failure. What I found interesting was how much tighter the hydraulic tensioner increased, according to the graph on the link, which could definitely lead to snapped belts if the tension was too tight in the first place.

Like Paul said, what interested me as well was the equal tension, and somewhat more forgiving, tension as the rpm band increased. I will pay close attention to the install and take pictures as well for people who may be interested.

 

[Locke]

The hydraulic belt tensioner acts as a damper to prevent belt deflection, keeping the belt in the same place after romping the throttle for short periods of time. It does this very well, the problem with the hydraulic tensioner - aside of it blowing its seal or valve and not functioning properly - is during long hard pulls (think road coarse) the belt will overcome the force of the damper and compress it. When you let off the throttle, the engine will not be applying much tension to the belt, and it will relax before the damper can rebound, causing a moment of slack in the belt and thus the potential to jump time.

Mechanically sprung tensioners won't suffer from this due to their high spring rate, though they won't do as well a job at keeping the belt in a static position.

Haven't bad hydraulic tensioners been the cause of a lot of problems. Isn't that why we replace them so frequently? Sounds like a good idea to me, I wish somebody would make one for the 4G63, maybe a bit heavier duty.

I'm not aware of any mechanically sprung tensioners for the 4g63, though if you're looking for heavier duty anyways, there is available a solid unit where you manually load tension into the belt. See here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/245642-solid-tensioner.html

 

[Slippi84]

Sounds like trying to reinvent the wheel to me. The dealer has new tensioners for $130. Two bolts install and uninstall the tensionser with everything off no confusion. Only way it would take long enough to kick back to cause a jump in timing is if you had a very lazy dying tensioner.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

Sounds like trying to reinvent the wheel to me. The dealer has new tensioners for $130. Two bolts install and uninstall the tensionser with everything off no confusion. Only way it would take long enough to kick back to cause a jump in timing is if you had a very lazy dying tensioner.

Dealer price is $180 for the tensioner and just the tensioner.

Parts Dinosaur's mechanical kit includes the new tensioner, pulleys, and timing belt for about $130.

I went with the Part's Dinosaur kit and loved it, great quality and better design IMO.

 

[TalonESIT]

Just received it in the mail today! My camera battery is dead so I will take pictures and for a how to once it is charged.

 

[Slippi84]

Dealer price is $180 for the tensioner and just the tensioner.

Parts Dinosaur's mechanical kit includes the new tensioner, pulleys, and timing belt for about $130.

I went with the Part's Dinosaur kit and loved it, great quality and better design IMO.

Sorry I forgot all my prices are wholesale.

 

[TalonESIT]

Just finished the article. Here it is...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-mechanical-belt-tensioner.html#post151521127