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Major Boost Problem

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travislaw

15+ Year Contributor
389
8
Nov 4, 2005
Colorado Springs, Colorado
I need some ideas and some major help. I have already spent $700 trying to figure out my problem. This is for a 96 Eclipse GS-T by the way. My problem is this:

About a month ago I started having a big boost problem. As soon as my car hits 4,000 RPMS the boost gauge is showing I have hit full boost and then the car accelerates really crappy. I took it to the dealership, they made me buy orginal 2nd Gen BOV and restore my BOV piping. I had a custom 2.25 inch metal pipe going from the intercooler to the BOV with a 1st gen BOV set-up on the car. So I spent $200 restoring the car back to stock. It cost me $380 for the diagnostic and they told me to replace my fuel pump. SO I replaced it with a 255 LPH fuel pump. The whine from my pump is gone (finally). I am still having the same problem, but car isn't running as crappy. It's like going from Eclipse Boost Accelaration to Geo Metro acceleration as soon as I hit 4,000 RPMS. I had another turbo and swapped out my waste gate actuator and still have the problem. I think I am hearing a lot of air going through the exhaust as soon as I hit the 4,000 RPMS. What could be causing my problem still? I have done a boost leak test and don't have any. I have also checked the vacuum hoses and they appear fine. Any other ideas? Do I need a bigger waste gate actuator? I miss being able to boost all the way to 6,500 RPMS. Please help!!!!! :cry:
 
First thing is to try new plug wires and plugs then maby if that dosent slove it get some new injectors and a afc and get it tuned it could just be that untuned otherwise the ecu could be bad but good luck.
 
larsenracing said:
First thing is to try new plug wires and plugs then maby if that dosent slove it get some new injectors and a afc and get it tuned it could just be that untuned otherwise the ecu could be bad but good luck.

I replaced the engine in 02/2005, which included New NGK Split Fires and new wires. I also checked the plugs and wires last week. I also replaced the ecu 08/2005. What do you mean by afc?
 
an Apexi s-afc. im not a fan of split fire plugs just go get some NGK bpr7es plugs they are like $1.35ea. and a set of good nkg wires. plugs and wires dont last that long if they arenot real good quiality.
 
larsenracing said:
an Apexi s-afc. im not a fan of split fire plugs just go get some NGK bpr7es plugs they are like $1.35ea. and a set of good nkg wires. plugs and wires dont last that long if they arenot real good quiality.


Would these things be causign my wastegate to open prematurally though? I am pretty sure all my boost is being dumped into the exhause once I hit 4,000 RPMS.
 
adjustable fuel pressure regulator. the 255 flows a lot of fuel, too much for your stock fuel pressure regulator to handle (it cant bleed the fuel out of your fuel rail fast enuff).
 
siceclipse said:
adjustable fuel pressure regulator. the 255 flows a lot of fuel, too much for your stock fuel pressure regulator to handle (it cant bleed the fuel out of your fuel rail fast enuff).


What type of Aeromotive AFPR do you recommend I purchase, or is there another good brand to purchase? Direct bolt on would be great. Do you think this is what is causing the wastegate to dump my turbo pressure out the exhaust instead of keeping it in the intake?
 
i got mine from fullthrottlespeed.com but it appears they dont have them anymore. i would go with a nice aeromotive setup.
 
siceclipse said:
i got mine from fullthrottlespeed.com but it appears they dont have them anymore. i would go with a nice aeromotive setup.


Which model number should I go with and are there any additional parts I will need to purchase for the set-up?
 
So the problem ended up being the seal in my turbo went out. Arg :mad: I just replaced my turbo in February. Luckily the company I bought it from will send me another one once they get this one. I bought an FPR and plan on installing it as soon as my new turbo gets in. I am actually going to buy a Ported Big 16 Evo III turbo and will be selling my turbo I get from my warranty on E-Bay.
 
AFPR aside, how much boost are you running and how much pressure and for how long was did the system hold during your pressure test? It's impossible not to have a leak with the 2G BOV. Your problem is not related at all to your 1G BOV or hard pipe, remove the rubber hose and 2G BOV and ask for refund from the dealer then reinstall your 1G BOV setup, the 2G BOV will not hold anything above 12psi if you're lucky.
 
oldman said:
AFPR aside, how much boost are you running and how much pressure and for how long was did the system hold during your pressure test? It's impossible not to have a leak with the 2G BOV. Your problem is not related at all to your 1G BOV or hard pipe, remove the rubber hose and 2G BOV and ask for refund from the dealer then reinstall your 1G BOV setup, the 2G BOV will not hold anything above 12psi if you're lucky.


I am running stock boost on the car. I thought it was carzy that the 1st gen bov was leaking too. I put on my friends 1st gen bov to see if it was just mine that was bad, and the car did the same thing. I plan on putting all the metal tubing back on as soon as I get my new turbo. I didn't run the pressure test, the dealership did, and they said my piping wasn't leaking at all. Does anyone happen to know where I should hook my Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge into in other words where in the oil system do I tap into?
 
spyderturbo007 said:
Cheap / Free things to do:

1. Replace those Splitfire plugs with NGK's and gap them to 0.030".
2. Build and conduct your own boost leak tester.

Try that and let us know what you find.


spyderturbo007, The boost leak problem has been solved, but thanks for the advice. One of the main seals in the turbo is leaking the boost out of it. So I am replacing the turbo.
 
travislaw said:
The boost leak problem has been solved
I seriously doubt that. You're taking the word of a dealer who advised you to restore your 2G BOV/stock pipping (most ridicules thing I ever heard, shows they have no understanding of how a turbo system work), fuel pump....etc for $700 and none of which seem to have anything to do with your problem. In other words, you just got rapped at the STEALERSHIP and I would not listen to anything they have told you so far.
 
oldman said:
I seriously doubt that. You're taking the word of a dealer who advised you to restore your 2G BOV/stock pipping (most ridicules thing I ever heard, shows they have no understanding of how a turbo system work), fuel pump....etc for $700 and none of which seem to have anything to do with your problem. In other words, you just got rapped at the STEALERSHIP and I would not listen to anything they have told you so far.


You are not kidding about stealership :thumb: . When I brought the car back last Friday for a second time, they tried to tell me I would have to pay for a whole new diagnostic. After waiting until Tuesday to get my car back, they told me that it was a seal in the turbo and that the mechanic wasn't going to charge me for the new diagnostic. I hate this dealership, I have had nothing but problems everytime I go there for parts or other things. I guess I will find out if the dealership was right or not when I put my new turbo on. It is a New TD05H Big 16G Evo 3 GT Turbo Turbocharger EVO III that is ported. I should have some fun with that turbo. One the turbo gets in I will be installing my fuel pump rewire kit, my AFPR, my new turbo, my manual boost controller, and my Autometer Boost and Oil Pressure Gauges. I'm excited. ROFL Even if the dealership was wrong, the place I bought the stock turbo from is going to replace it for free, so I will now have a spare or I may sell that one.
 
spyderturbo007 said:
Cheap / Free things to do:

1. Replace those Splitfire plugs with NGK's and gap them to 0.030".
2. Build and conduct your own boost leak tester.

Try that and let us know what you find.

The Splitfires are NGK Splitfires.
 
He is saying that you need NGK BPR7ES as mentioned earlier
larsenracing
an Apexi s-afc. im not a fan of split fire plugs just go get some NGK bpr7es plugs they are like $1.35ea. and a set of good nkg wires. plugs and wires dont last that long if they arenot real good quiality.
. They have been tried and have proven themselves over and over again to work well with DSM's
 
Pitman99505 said:
He is saying that you need NGK BPR7ES as mentioned earlier

Thanks, that's what I was getting at. :thumb:

I am in complete agreement with oldman on this one, but if you find it necessary to keep throwing parts at the car, be my guest.

I, on the other hand, would rather spend an hour or two in the driveway trying to diagnose/fix the problem myself.
 
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