maddogxx
10+ Year Contributor
- 131
- 5
- Aug 11, 2011
-
Grand Rapids,
Michigan
I have allways loved the look of the 2G Eclipses, even before the movie "Fast and Furious", so this all started about 3 years ago when I got a good deal on a 96 RS. It was fun to drive but 140hp is kinda depressing but at least it was a stick! After a summer I sold that and moved up to a 97 GST which was a hugh upgrade, but the car was pretty much a cobbled piece of pooh from the previous owner. And finally I found a great deal 2 summers ago on a 97 GSX with 126k miles and a knocking motor for $2700 but it was mint except for the "KIT" light in the middle of the front bumper cover 
, you know "Knight rider", needless to say that was the first thing I did was remove it. If you look at the pic real close you can see the hole, .
So I had it towed to Porter's Performance in Ostego Michigan which is about 40 miles from Grand Rapids for a stage 1 rebuild. I had the balance shafts deleted while they were in there. Also had a mild port on the head and had them install delta 272 cams with manley spings and some used 3g lifters. I had them put in the ACT 2100 clutch while the motor was out too. Oh and I picked purple for the block and valve cover paint. So I think my grand total was like just over 4k. Long story short is Porters went out of business shortly after they did my car and I have had several expensive issues but I have learned alot!
One of the first things I had to do was suspension work. It needed struts, both lower ball joints, and a wheel bearing. I went with some Eibach spings to lower the car a little bit and went with a set of kyb struts. Eventually I had to replace the pass side upper ball joint, luckily I was in a parking lot moving slow when it broke.
After doing alot of reading here on the forums and accumulating the parts for all the mods I wanted to do, my stock turbo started to smoke so that was my exuse to finally start modding my car. I went with a long route FMIC so I did not have to cut the car in any way. My goal as I do my mods is to keep it so I can go back to stock some day just in case?
I also wanted to try and hide the FMIC. So I found some black plastic grille material on Ebay and while it doesnt hide it that much it does provide it some protection?
Next was the exhaust, I bought a turbo back 3" exhaust with cat delete from SRS. The down pipe is actually 2.5" to 3" before the flex portion. I am very pleased with this system the stainless steel is beautiful and everything bolted up perfect no issues. The first pic is the old exhaust removed and the next is the new ready to be bolted in.
On to the fuel system. First thing was install the Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump and do the rewire mod with the relay.
Here I removed the canister below the battery tray to make more room.
Now I put in a new OEM fuel filter and a new banjo bolt that fit the aeroquip fitting. I also marked the banjo bolt orfice so that when it was tight the orfice faced the fuel line for maximum flow. I replaced the fuel line with braided stainless steel fuel line and fittings.
Here I added some red 8.8mm spark plug wires. Also in this pic is the AFPR set at 43psi. Just below that are the Precision 1000cc injectors.
I got a great deal on the computer with full V3 DSMLink off craigslist.
For my intake I got a nice used Greddy UICP and BOV, plus I have the stock MAF sensor and I have a K&N air filter.
This pic shows the Prothane motor mount inserts all the way around. Also pictured is the clear timing belt cover.
So my choice for my first turbo upgrade was an CRX racing 20g with a tubular manifold and j-pipe. Now I now everyone hates on ebay stuff but this turbo has been great and I have about 10-12k on it so far,. I also got a good deal on a Megan Racing O2 housing. In one of the pics you can see I used the port from the head to feed the oil to the turbo.
Here is a pic of the engine bay, some day I will get around to making it cleaner and nicer to look at.
This pic shows how I added a mechanical full sweep Oil pressure gauge, no leaks so far. You can see I used a stainless steel T so I could keep the stock gauge operational.
Here is a pic of the gauges in the cabin. I have a 2 pod on the pillar and a 2 pod around the steering console. All the gauges are the Autometer ultra lite Carbon fiber series, they are 30psi boost, oil temp, and oil pressure. I also have the Innovate MTX-L wideband air/fuel ratio gauge.
I got a really good deal on a set of 18" AKUZA sublime wheels off from craigslist for $60 because one had to have a repair. After a $65 repair I had a local place blast and powder coat them for $135, so for $260 I got a new set of 18" wheels, not too bad?
Here is what I will be doing next as soon as I have a free weekend. Brembos all 4 corners, can't wait! Also got the slotted/dimpled rotors and pads from ROTORPROS for a sweet deal. Also picked up a 1-1/16" MC from the boneyard from a 01 eclipse for $25
Next turbo upgrade is in the works, this is what I have so far: FP exhaust manifold, bep hotside, HOLSET H1C, and a Tial 38mm external wastgate and O2 housing. Just need to rebuild the turbo and get a FP recirculated intake. The second pic is just showing the size difference between the stock T25 and the Holset H1C, wow!
, you know "Knight rider", needless to say that was the first thing I did was remove it. If you look at the pic real close you can see the hole, .So I had it towed to Porter's Performance in Ostego Michigan which is about 40 miles from Grand Rapids for a stage 1 rebuild. I had the balance shafts deleted while they were in there. Also had a mild port on the head and had them install delta 272 cams with manley spings and some used 3g lifters. I had them put in the ACT 2100 clutch while the motor was out too. Oh and I picked purple for the block and valve cover paint. So I think my grand total was like just over 4k. Long story short is Porters went out of business shortly after they did my car and I have had several expensive issues but I have learned alot!
One of the first things I had to do was suspension work. It needed struts, both lower ball joints, and a wheel bearing. I went with some Eibach spings to lower the car a little bit and went with a set of kyb struts. Eventually I had to replace the pass side upper ball joint, luckily I was in a parking lot moving slow when it broke.
After doing alot of reading here on the forums and accumulating the parts for all the mods I wanted to do, my stock turbo started to smoke so that was my exuse to finally start modding my car. I went with a long route FMIC so I did not have to cut the car in any way. My goal as I do my mods is to keep it so I can go back to stock some day just in case?
I also wanted to try and hide the FMIC. So I found some black plastic grille material on Ebay and while it doesnt hide it that much it does provide it some protection?
Next was the exhaust, I bought a turbo back 3" exhaust with cat delete from SRS. The down pipe is actually 2.5" to 3" before the flex portion. I am very pleased with this system the stainless steel is beautiful and everything bolted up perfect no issues. The first pic is the old exhaust removed and the next is the new ready to be bolted in.
On to the fuel system. First thing was install the Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump and do the rewire mod with the relay.
Here I removed the canister below the battery tray to make more room.
Now I put in a new OEM fuel filter and a new banjo bolt that fit the aeroquip fitting. I also marked the banjo bolt orfice so that when it was tight the orfice faced the fuel line for maximum flow. I replaced the fuel line with braided stainless steel fuel line and fittings.
Here I added some red 8.8mm spark plug wires. Also in this pic is the AFPR set at 43psi. Just below that are the Precision 1000cc injectors.
I got a great deal on the computer with full V3 DSMLink off craigslist.
For my intake I got a nice used Greddy UICP and BOV, plus I have the stock MAF sensor and I have a K&N air filter.
This pic shows the Prothane motor mount inserts all the way around. Also pictured is the clear timing belt cover.
So my choice for my first turbo upgrade was an CRX racing 20g with a tubular manifold and j-pipe. Now I now everyone hates on ebay stuff but this turbo has been great and I have about 10-12k on it so far,
. I also got a good deal on a Megan Racing O2 housing. In one of the pics you can see I used the port from the head to feed the oil to the turbo.Here is a pic of the engine bay, some day I will get around to making it cleaner and nicer to look at.
This pic shows how I added a mechanical full sweep Oil pressure gauge, no leaks so far. You can see I used a stainless steel T so I could keep the stock gauge operational.
Here is a pic of the gauges in the cabin. I have a 2 pod on the pillar and a 2 pod around the steering console. All the gauges are the Autometer ultra lite Carbon fiber series, they are 30psi boost, oil temp, and oil pressure. I also have the Innovate MTX-L wideband air/fuel ratio gauge.
I got a really good deal on a set of 18" AKUZA sublime wheels off from craigslist for $60 because one had to have a repair. After a $65 repair I had a local place blast and powder coat them for $135, so for $260 I got a new set of 18" wheels, not too bad?
Here is what I will be doing next as soon as I have a free weekend. Brembos all 4 corners, can't wait! Also got the slotted/dimpled rotors and pads from ROTORPROS for a sweet deal. Also picked up a 1-1/16" MC from the boneyard from a 01 eclipse for $25
Next turbo upgrade is in the works, this is what I have so far: FP exhaust manifold, bep hotside, HOLSET H1C, and a Tial 38mm external wastgate and O2 housing. Just need to rebuild the turbo and get a FP recirculated intake. The second pic is just showing the size difference between the stock T25 and the Holset H1C, wow!
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