The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Low compression on all 4. Timing off or?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

crxdsmdan

Probationary Member
26
0
Aug 11, 2012
winnipeg, MB, Canada
Issues im having now:
-hard start in the morning or when the car hasn't been on for +5hours
-stutters and bogs huge power loss, sounds like its running on 2 cylinders until it warms up then it sorta idles fine.

-Car seems to run better when i adjust the CAS way out of wack, (turn the CAS all the way to the left, clockwise), and it runs ok. set it to 5 degrees top dead center and it seems to run worse.

Things ive done so far:

-new spark plugs, gapped properly.
-new spark plug wires
-tested injectors, 390cc
-new fuel filter, 1 month old according to previous owner
-new power steering belt
-replaced intercooler (had major leak, helped a little)
-replaced TPS (used, helped a little more, not perfect tho)
-replaced CTS (used, made no difference in starting)
-removed the fuel line that goes to the rail (in front of the TPS), even hours after the car hasn't been running still had plenty of fuel in the line and rail so im assuming no fuel delivery or fuel pressure issues.
-tested alternator, seems fine. (removed the negative cables from the battery while the car was running, didn't shut off)
-did a compression test on all 4 and they read 110 and cylinder 3 (spark plug 3) had 120. These numbers are way off but the car ran fine for a short while while i adjusted the CAS.
-redid the timing belt and set it perfectly, double checked
-cleared codes

pulled codes off with a voltmeter buzzer (cleared):
13 - air intake temp. sensor
14 - throttle position sensor (replaced)
21 - engine coolant temp. sensor (replaced)
23 - crank angle sensor
25 - barometric pressure sensor

Question:
-car is now misfiring again, at firs tit was only after 100km now its around 3000rpm again. runs fine after, possible fuel pressure issue?
-how do i test fuel pressure?

car is a daily driver so fast reply's would be great.

thanks guys, cheers!
 
Last edited:
If you don't have a leak down test do a regular compression test then do it again and add a cap of oil down each spark plug hole. If the compression goes up it's the rings if it stays low either the piston is broken or the valves are not completely clowed.
 
its probably a combination of valve seals and compression piston rings going bad. do you have blow-by? how many miles are on your engine? try some lucas oil stabilzer and do another compression test to see if it goes up or not. leak down test will help too.
 
I just ran into an issue today when I did a compression test. I had 150-125-125-150 and tried doing a leak down test. The leak down had cylinders bleeding into each other. Further diagnosis revealed that my exhaust cam gear was advanced one tooth. After correcting the timing I was at 165-155-165-160. If it is skipped a tooth on the exhaust cam, it will have a negative impact on compression.
 
-Replaced all the bad sensors, cleared the CEL.
-Re did the timing belt, set the the timing to 11degrees TDC and it ran better then at 5degrees..

car was running perfect for a day.

Drove it home late that night and decide to push it a bit and it was misfiring around 100-120km and felt like something was holding it back and it wouldn't go faster, not hitting a brick wall type like a fuel cut would normal do.

Then this morning i started it up, no issues starting anymore, and it was misfiring a bit and went back to having the same old issues as before. misfiring/bogging/hesitation before 3000rpm then would sputter and go faster around 3300rpm.

EDIT: does this sound like a fuel pressure issue? i also have an exhaust leak, alternator squeals, it needs a new belt. and valve cover is leaking oil. im sure those are off topic problems tho.
 
-Re did the timing belt, set the the timing to 11degrees TDC and it ran better then at 5degrees..

You set the base ignition timing to 11* BTDC? WTF
Fix this.
Immediately.

Fix the exhaust leak and the car will run better. Also, check the PCV valve if you've recently developed a valve cover oil leak.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top