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low compression on a fresh motor

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LTUDSM

15+ Year Contributor
1,802
7
Jun 27, 2005
Morrisville, Pennsylvania
well im having problems with blue smokes,that are coming from my tailpipe.I just rebuild the engine ,and still breaking in the motor. (200 miles already).I checked compression,and i got 125psi across the board.I added up one cap of oil in every cylinder,and the copression went up to 150 PSI in all cylinders.
I got:
.20 bore
Wiseco pistons and rings.rings are gapped to spec.
Eagle rods
ACL main and rod bearings
Neww water pump,oil pump,tensioner pulleys,auto tensioner,Cometic metal HG
 
was the head rebuilt aswell? maybe bad valves? also i would double check your timing marks.
 
yeah the head rebuilt by JNZ Tuning 250 miles ago,50 miles before the engine rebuilt.they replaced valve guides,valve seals, valves..
by the way i noticed,that my vac stays at 10hg,which is almost double lower then its supposed to be

ill go and check timing marks and post up the pic.
but how the incorrect timing could affect the compression???
 
Since you did the wet test and the results changed, that means that the piston rings aren't seated properly/yet. Can I ask you how you're breaking in the motor? Everyone has their own opinion on how to break in a motor. I personally agree with moto-man. According to him you're supposed to run the car kind of hard to get them to seat properly. Refer to this engine break in procedure if you're unfamiliar with it:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
 
well my neighbor told me (he is a mechanic) that i got to lover the boos all the way and keep on driving no higher then 3500rpms,after i pass the 500 mile limit,he said turn up the boost till whatever you set it and drive it regulary ...
 
Yea, like I said everyone's got there own receipe for breaking in their motor. I guess it's more of a preference. Some people would never beat on a new motor, but other people think it's the only way to properly seat the piston rings. I know when I get all done with my motor build, I'll be turning up the boost and doing it moto-mans way LOL.

I just thought I'd share what I found, and see if that helps you out. It might just mean the your engine isn't broken it just yet. So the pistons aren't seated yet. Good luck and let us know, in a couple thousand miles how your compression is.
 
Thats the timing marks on my cam gears.I think its a bit to low of the center line

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Sorry the pic was taken from my cell phone :p
 

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Thats the timing marks on my cam gears.I think its a bit to low of the center line

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Sorry the pic was taken from my cell phone :p

Jeeze, that's real tough to tell from the picture. It's too blurry...if you could take another picture and this time instead of the 2 marks, take a picture of all 4 marks on the cam gears. That way it would be easier to tell if it's in time. Try taking a straight edge to the 4 marks, it's not always the easiest to tell from a picture. Some time it's looks like it's in time, but it could be off slightly.
 

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I think what he is saying is you want to accelerate, and then decelerate.Like coming down a hill with some speed, and your foot off the gas. I personally think that the right amount of boost ensures a good sealing piston ring. The force from the combustion is what actually forces the rings up against the cylinder wall.Honestly from the way the pic looks you may have your intake cam advanced a tooth..kinda hard to tell though:)Definetely looks a bit low of the centerline
 
yeaah i fixed my timing,and now it looks much better.The vac staying at 18hg,where it used to stay at 10-8hg.And idles wayy better too.but smokes still coming.Every morning,when i start my car,it doesnt smoke for like couple of minutes,but when the car warms up,it starts throw up a blue smoke.....
 
I would start running it a little harder. You pretty much have a window that you have to seat the rings in. Dont be afraid to run it a little;)
 
The motoman method works great. I have 3500 miles on a fresh rebuild now, which had perfect compression when I checked it at 150, 1000 & 2500 miles. I ran 12 psi and kept it off the highway for 200 miles...then let her rip.

Vac pulling (loaded vacuum) actually pulls the cyl wall filings out of the cc, sends them out the exhaust and keeps your oil cleaner during breakin.

Like tbonitz said, Cylinder pressure gets behind the rings and forces them into the cyl wall where the crosshatching files the ring face down to a perfect match of the cyl surface.
 
ok here is a thing,that i was thinking of and was talking to some known dsm shops. They saying if i have 125 psi on all cylinders,it can't be the rings,Because they can't be wear to an equal 125 psi across the board.The thing ,that they told me,is 99% of my Headgasket,Because when i put my Cometic Multi layer steel gasket,i didn't decked my block.Only head was decked.So im gonna replace the HG and turbo,and see,whats gonna happen :(
 
ok some updates:
after timing fix,im getting these compression numbers

#1 cyl-150
#2 cyl-145
#3cyl-145
#4cyl-145

Wet test:
#1 cyl-175
#2 cyl-170
#3cyl-170
#4cyl-170

here is some video of hows my car smoking at idle and the turbo shaftplay

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i136.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid136.photobucket.com/albums/q184/marka_bucket/Video009.flv">

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i136.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid136.photobucket.com/albums/q184/marka_bucket/Video001.flv">
 
My thoughts on thew matter....

200 miles isn't enough to properly break in a motor, I'd run it a bit longer before I started to worry. Before I ran it longer however, I'd perform a cylinder leakdown test. If you have the equipment to do a CLT you should be able to narrow down your problem in a matter of minutes. I know you can rent a tester from auto zone for free just put down a deposit. Hopefully you have access to a air compressor. If you can get your hands on both of the previously mentioned, you'd be pretty well off.

If you are really energetic you can make your own tester. Read here for instructions on usage and construction:

Tech Tip: Building and Using a Leakdown Tester

Hope this helps.
 
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