loosening 5th Gear nut

[2gSpyder4g64]

Hey, im replacing my center diff, but i cant loosen the 36mm nuts on the shaft and on the 5th gear. I already took out the VCU, and the fork and I used a flat screwdriver to unstake the nuts, but they are stil "staken" a bit.´

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I tryed the "penny trick" but it didnt end so well, and the penny just passed through the gears

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When i took the VCU it didnt had the metal ball bearing in place ( or maybe it did and i let it fall, but it didnt made anny sound), will anny ball bearing work?
Is there anny position i should try to put the penny in?
anny trick to get them out? or i should just get an impact gun ?
Is there something missing on the top cover?

 

[Aproductions]

I recently rebuilt a transmission and I just popped on an impact and it was a 10 second thing.

 

[luv2rallye]

Congrats - you now have a souvenir of how you damaged your gears! Fortunately pennies are soft metal so they should still work with the scratch you just left in them.

To remove/install the 36mm nuts on the input & intermediate shafts place the tranny in both 1st and 5th gears at same time to hold the shafts. 5th is done by removing the spring pin holding the shift fork, then the fork, and then sliding the syncro sleeve into 5th. Don't do something stupid like jamming a penny or rag between 5th gears teeth as some people say. It won't hold them solid enough and will just cause damage.

 

[2gSpyder4g64]

Thanks for the response guys!, I'll get an impact and try with it.

luv2rallye how can i get into 1th and 5th at the same time , im new ( as you might have noticed ) on this.

and yeah i'll keep that penny for a long time, its gonna be a good story of how i messed up my gears haha.

 

[pauleyman]

I cut an old clutch disc apart and welded the hub to a socket. You can then hold the input shaft. Two gears idnt a bad idea either but youre still using the gear teeth to hold the shaft but at 115lbs and not impacting this should be no problem.

 

[luv2rallye]

luv2rallye how can i get into 1th and 5th at the same time , im new ( as you might have noticed ) on this.

Shift into 1st, then do what I said in post 3 to the 5th gear fork. I've done many this way and it works great. Using the gear teeth to hold the shaft is fine. That is exactly what they do all the time since they are constantly engaged and can stand 1000's of ft-lbs torque. You need a way to hold the shafts solidly which is what this does. Using a penny or rag won't hold them solidly enough to get the nut off. If you have an impact gun that works too although you'll still have to hold the gears from turning some way. The more solid the gears are held the easier it will be to get the nut off.

 

[2gSpyder4g64]

I got them out !,i put the car in firsth and 5th and got them out pretty quick!

The clutch way also seems good, but i dont have a welder at home.

Now is there a way to pull the gears out with out a gear puller? or im risking to damage them even more? ( the penny story is already enough hahaha).

 

[miguelmcv]

I used 2 flat screw drivers, just go smooth on them and pry even on both sides, it will comes right out.

If you pry more on one side then the other, you will not goina go any where.

 

[luv2rallye]

I got them out !,i put the car in firsth and 5th and got them out pretty quick!

The clutch way also seems good, but i dont have a welder at home.

Now is there a way to pull the gears out with out a gear puller? or im risking to damage them even more? ( the penny story is already enough hahaha).

I assume you're talking about all the tranny internal gears. For just the end bearing and gear you may get by with just a bearing puller however it must be on EXACTLY square and even then you risk damage, or you may not get the travel needed. The better way is to use a bearing separator on a press. And to put them back on you usually need a press anyway. You don't want to start hitting them with a hammer to reinstall (unless they will go on with just light tapping which they rarely do).

 

[2gSpyder4g64]

Today i didn't had much free time to work on the trans , but this is the gear thats giving me trouble.

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Does it comes out as one piece, or i have to take it apart? If so, how do i do it ?!

Again thanks alot for all your responses i really appreciate it.

 

[pauleyman]

That is the hub. Use a three jaw puller. Do not damage the inside of that shaft. The oil feed on the end case goes into it. The actual fifth gear under that hub rides on needle bearings and just slips off.

 

[2gSpyder4g64]

Alright!, where should i atach the puller with out damaging the Synchro?

the 3 jaw puller have is like this one

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[FourFunction]

That hub should almost pop off of there with alittle pressure. You can always try alittle heat with a heat gun.

 

[pauleyman]

Don't go under the synchro. Grab just the hub itself. If you're lucky you can remove the hub by hand. I've never had such luck. Takes very little effort from that puller though.

 

[luv2rallye]

I thought you were refering to the gears inside (1 through 4) so I said use a press. But for 5th and it's hub it practically lifts off with your hand (or pry off with a pair of screwdrivers or 3 jaw puller if harder).

 

[2gSpyder4g64]

I finally got all out, i used the 3 jaw puller alot of wd40 and my dads help to get that thing off! haha

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And looks like my old center diff, welded itselft , going to oppen it tomorrow and check whats going on

[ame=http://youtu.be/kBc4VXr9mzE]Center Differential - YouTube[/ame]

And i got one last question ( i hope)

Can i use the same Nuts and stake them again, or get new ones?
( i ask because the mistu delaership doesn't have anny spare for dsm on my country, only models 2004 and up, and i'm going to have to import them from the states).

 

[BoostedBeaver]

The nuts are suppose to be replaced. Mitsparts has them and will have them out to you in a short time. It will probably take a week or more for shipping though.

There is a great possibility that when you tighten them back down, you will not be able to stake them because they will tighten up to around the same spot. You also do not want the staked piece to break off because it has been bent more that once. This would ruin a tranny.

It does not look like you pulled out or replaced any of the races so you should not have to worry about re-shimming the tranny. However, you are installing a new center diff with different bearings and it would never hurt to check the clearance on the upper race to insure the proper pre-load on that part. Instructions on how to do that can be found in my build thread under Transmission rebuild (3 parts) below.

Not sure how you plan on Torqueing those nuts back on? You can see the tool that I used on my rebuild in the build thread also. Just putting the tranny in gear or tightening them with a impact won't do it.

Robert

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-build-journals/427853-1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.html

 

[pauleyman]

Although not recommended ive reused those nuts before. They did not tighten back to the same spot. If they did I wouldnt reuse them. I drove tens of thousands of miles that way.