Looking for pics of your AFPR Install

[Stoner]

I just got the aeromotive afpr, guage, and s/s return line install kit from slowboy. I have a few ideas on where I am going to install it but I would like to see what you did.

Thanks,
Ben

 

[mavisky]

Better zip tie that vacuum line unless you don't want your FP rising with boost when it decides to blow off.

yea, that happened to me at the track one time, thank god for the stock ecu and its ability to pull timing with knock.

 

[ForceFedRed]

There are some good mounting options shown in this thread, here is mine.

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JRM

 

[coltboostin]

There are some good mounting options shown in this thread, here is mine.

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JRM

Wow, thats a new way of doing it!

 

[stage2eclipse]

here's my afpr. i had to bend a piece of aluminum for the bracket, but it fits perfect. also i dont have any of the boost selenoids and stuff http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44247&stc=1ff up on the firewall

 

[Stoner]

Ben,
Did you already install the fittings on your SS line? I ask because I got the same kit and it seems as if the fitting are the wrong size. I've gone as far as to retape the line cut it and still I can't get the AN collor to slide over the line to install the fitting.

My car is still down and probably will be for a few more months while I wait for some more parts to arrive. I got a 3000 PSI -6 AN SS Line from somewhere for free but it just a little bit shorter and would require me to mount the AFPR on my Fenderwell instead of putting it on my Firewall like I want.

If you have any tips on how to install the fittings I would definitly be apreciative.

I put my lines together tonight and what a pita that was. Anyway I found a good link with tips on cutting and putting AN fittings on S/S line. I am sure some of you already know about it but for those of you who dont.

http://www.stevetek.com/R-BraidedLineTutorial.html

Also for you who have done this before, do the fittings have to screw all the way down. Because mine go so tight I couldnt turn them anymore and there is still a 1/4" gap?

Thanks,
Ben

 

[DSMu4ia]

I put my lines together tonight and what a pita that was. Anyway I found a good link with tips on cutting and putting AN fittings on S/S line. I am sure some of you already know about it but for those of you who dont.

http://www.stevetek.com/R-BraidedLineTutorial.html

Also for you who have done this before, do the fittings have to screw all the way down. Because mine go so tight I couldnt turn them anymore and there is still a 1/4" gap?

Thanks,
Ben

They should turn down, they require a good amount of force.

If you matched different companies hose ends with other companies hose, you will see this problem occassionally. You should really use the same hose, and the same ends. I had some oil cooler lines that wouldn't tighten (-8an), and eventually I got them close to 1/16th, but they were nearly impossible. I was literally hanging with all my 170lbs from a vise getting them that close. I could definately tell they weren't "correct" but I kept assembling them. I ordered the same hose/ends, but I believe Baker Precision screwed my order.

The oil lines ended up leaking, so I sprung for some push-lok hydraulic hose/ends, because I knew in a decent amount of time the oil cooler ends would blow apart and cost me a motor.

Here's my oil cooler lines:

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These are definately no walk in the park either to assemble, but I managed. No leaks.

 

[Jeff_Jeske]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44173

 

[sleepyvr4]

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[gritsak]

heres a couple of my old setup

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[coltboostin]

I would just like to stop quickly and say that this is the FIRST thread even on tuners that has not had some sort or random flame, stupid uneducated posts to clutter it, or misinformation I have ever scene. Good job to all those involved, we should be commended.

Now…more on regulators.

 

[MNGSX]

Forcefed's looks alright.

My SX is bolted to the end of the 1g maniflod. I just tapped a couple holes...

When I get a sheet metal intake it will be rail mounted... I'm going to a dual feed rail. Essentially two rail halves joined at the center by the AFPR. With the return line shooting straight down between mani runners.

Stainless AN fittings and either stainless rail or a internally coated rail... ALky. The ethanol is'nt that bad but all the OEM's running it on FFV's either coat the inside of the rail or use a non aluminum rail. ABS or steel.

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

Here is mine

 

[Stoner]

Here is what I ended up with. The reason the afpr is at a slight angle is to insure that it clears the throttle cable adjustment bracket right below it. I also ground a little away from under the hood where I was concerned it would hit the afpr adjustment screw.

Enjoy

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

Nice work Ben

 

[RobBeck]

Anyone over here interested in adapters to bolt the Honda AEM FPR to the rail end? If so, I will check out fitment of one of my adapters on a local Talon/Eclipse... and if there is interest I could provide them. I made them custom for the 3000GT VR4... but they may bolt right up on the DSMs too. Assuming it didnt work, if there was enough interest, I could make them for this platform too. Perhaps I should post a new thread??

http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3S/Mods/TT/AEMFPR/index.html
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=215983

Thanks,

Rob

 

[4geze63]

its obvious aeromotive is th best looking in the bay

 

[tom1995tsi]

Is the aeromotive one a 1:1 fuel/boost level? I always thought u wanted a steady 38 psi or is that just at idle im confused because now iv heard 2 different things.

 

[Stoner]

Is the aeromotive one a 1:1 fuel/boost level? I always thought u wanted a steady 38 psi or is that just at idle im confused because now iv heard 2 different things.

The aeromotive is a 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator. And thats what you want for any forced induction car.

Around 38psi with vacuum line attached
around 43.5psi with vacuum line detached

For a 2g car atleast

 

[coltboostin]

Is the aeromotive one a 1:1 fuel/boost level? I always thought u wanted a steady 38 psi or is that just at idle im confused because now iv heard 2 different things.

Your stocker is a 1:1 rising rate regulator also.

The Base, or static pressure, is your fuel pressure at Okpa,or atmospheric pressure. It will go down form their under vaccume, and up under boost.

 

[tom1995tsi]

So when u set it you take the line off set the base fuel pressure to 38 and then reattach the vac. line?

 

[Stoner]

So when u set it you take the line off set the base fuel pressure to 38 and then reattach the vac. line?

On a 2g when the vacuum line is removed it should be set to 43.5 psi (stock). And when the line is attached it should be 38psi

 

[G9S1X]

see the tape? thats just keepin it real, showin that your above that

 

[Generation X]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44173

That looks like a Fullthrottle AFPR and not a Aeromotive unit.

 

[DSM90AWD]

With the 1Gs.. does the std 90deg AN fitting supplied in the "Kits" clear the T-Belt cover or would buying one of the "Tight Radius" 90deg Earls fittings be the better choice?

 

[cait sith]

Ok, so I figured I'd post a picture of my SARD setup.

SARD made a cute little fitting for our fuel rails I got for an extra ten bucks.

I don't really like all the fuel pressure going through the big rubber line, so I'm replacing it with braided stainless.

Mounting point is where the stock FPR bypass solinoid used to go.

And no, it is not properly set in this photo at all. The FP sensor is a greddy (240 bucks.. Ouch!!!!)