Lifter Tick [merged] Revised lifters 3rd Gen Generation 3g

[95talontsi]

I am fixing my valve tix by taking out the lifters or the auto valve lash adjusters. I have the valves cover off, the engine is at top dead center and I am on 3# cylinder. I got instructions off the net, now with either a tool or a standard screw driver press down on the valve and remove the rocker arm then remove the lifter. Which then I will clean out.
The question is where do I push down, The valve has the spring around is and the metal cap on top of that( forget the name of that) where do I push down with out damaging anything, I will probably have to push a bit so I do not want to damage anything. please help?

 

[TurboTalonAwd95]

Theres not really a "quick fix"..thats what i think. It should be done the right way, don't take shortcuts. If its not hurting anything leave it be and deal with the sound and when you get the money put in new lifters. They are easy to install even with the cams in.

I know how you feel though. i had bad lifter tick and its annoying, easiest way to fix it...is to fix it

 

[tsi1991awd]

Yea, best way to fix it is to fix it...I agree. Its not hurting anything but I'm like ahhh my engines going to explode! Hopefully it doesn't....

 

[knochgoon24]

I think that lifter tick is more of a 4g63 characteristic. Before someone pops the hood, I can usually tell if it's a 420a or 4g63 just by the ticking.

 

[chico904]

For me, using Mobil 1 with Lucas oil additive seems to work.

 

[tsi1991awd]

For me, using Mobil 1 with Lucas oil additive seems to work.

How much Lucas do you use? The whole bottle?

 

[chico904]

Yes I use the whole bottle.

 

[kenamond]

There is an article for cleaning your stock lifters on VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions I think. A new set of 16 revised lifters will run around $120 or so, but if that's too expensive, you might be able to fix the tick by cleaning and reusing your lifters. You're going to have to spring for a new VC gasket kit, though, and if you can find one cheap, a lifter removal tool, or you can look at how to do it with prybars in my tech article. No matter what, it's not going to be 100% free (VC gasket set at a minimum).

Good luck!

 

[Defiant]

Like I said, I don't have the money to buy the lifters right now. So what would be a "quick fix" if anything

You'll be spending as much on magical fluids and additives as a set of lifters costs. Put up with the noise, or replace them.

 

[tsi1991awd]

This morning I checked my oil level and it was low....added oil and it got quiter, and now throughout the day there hasn't been any noise.

 

[ShawnsGarage]

1st make sure the oil level is up. When these motors get low on oil they make a ticking noise.

Edit: OP types faster than me. Figured that might be your problem.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Yea, sorry bro...got to it before you did, . But yea, fixed. Noticed a slight ticking noise at idle, but nothing real major. Might get new lifters sometime soon.

 

[spydermanX98X]

Yea the whole Lucas additive is a rip off if you ask me. The "Stabilizer" is just a really heavy motor oil, so just use a higher weight oil for the rest and you don't have to use it.

 

[Splitpi]

I some how lost my lifter tick by using Amsoil/Mobile 1 with a K&N oil cleaner for 20k miles and using Lucas full synthetic oil additive... and seafoaming the intake with a half can of sea foam in the oil for ~30 miles. Not sure which solved it... but they no longer tick.

 

[misterskeetz]

I get tick about once every 2 weeks. Sometimes it is louder than others. Sounds like the noise is coming from right under the lower right hand corner of the valve cover. I got quoted 1500 dollars from a reputable shop to replace all 16 lifters. I think that is way over priced. Any opinions? Anything short of replacing all the lifters could help?

 

[flinguist]

You can do it yourself. Just get some 3G lifters (80-100 bucks), and go to town. Lifter VFAQ

Just make sure you take a good look at the valve train while you're doing it, to make sure there are no other problems.

 

[DSMReviver]

Has anybody here have an experience of using ITM brand 3mm revised lifters for 4g63T. I brought it for $5 bucks each and i paid a total of $90 dollar plus shipping from partsdinosaurs. i haven't actually put it in the car yet but wanted to know if anyone had a good resluts form it and how much RPM will these lifters hold?

Check it out 4G63T Mitsubishi Lash Adjusters

 

[99 GST-R]

Hey guys Im need need of a little help. My 99 gst has 60k miles on it now and it just started ticking... The only thing I can think of that I've done different is the Royal Purple 10w30 and a K&N oil filter. It's not very loud, and the ticking gets faster the faster I go, but after the engine warms up it goes away and wont do it again for that day. This sounds like lifter tick to me, but with the low number of miles on my car, and (from what I understand) my car has the 3G lifters stock, so I'm hoping its something that will be easier to fix. Any ideas? What are some things I can check before I crack 'er open to get at the lifters? I replaced the timming belt at 50k along with the other belts and did the recomended checks for 50k miles. Thanks for the help.
Matt

 

[kristmen]

I guess a more appropriate way to put it would be valve train noise.

I have some nasty phantom knock. I've been dealing with it since 2005. I've had to set DSMLink to ignore knock until 2200 RPM and 35% throttle to get around full knock and timing pull just driving down the road.

Car runs fine if I do that. Here is what I've done to try to fix this.

Well, the problem started in 2005 with this new to me, used head. I bought to rebuild.

The head looked to be in GREAT shape. I had the head cleaned, decked and rebuilt. Basic rebuild with a valve job and a couple new valves, new valve seals, 3G lifters and a set of FP Cam2 camshafts installed. Installed the head with ARP head studs and a OEM Mitsubishi head gasket.

Light oil burning issues right from the go. Major oil burning issues by 10,000 miles. Oil out the exhaust like WHOA. If I idle at a stoplight the exhaust loads up with oil smoke and it looks like James Bond 007 smoke screen taking off. I mean I could fog out an intersection so you couldn't see if you were behind me. I drove it like that anyway, was being lazy.

After like 15,000 miles the head chunked a valve, took a slice right out of one of the valve like a piece of pizza. It broke upwards, into the head and was sucked out the exhaust. Several people who saw the pictures say detonation, people who saw it up close say no detonation, its just covered with oil and carbon. These people who saw the parts in hand are mechanics so I would assume they have some idea as to what they are talking about.

Now before this happened, we could see oil sitting on top of the piston for like two years so we assumed a bad valve guide which explained the head noise too. The speculation on the broken valve is that the valve shifted enough sideways that it hit and just broke.

So the head was taken in, the head itself is in good shape still but we pull all 16 of the guides and sure enough, there worn to hell. We replace all 16 guides with bronze magnesium valve guides, all 16 valves with stainless valves.

The cars still got nasty valve train noise. So I throw in yet another new set of 3G lifters. Still has what I would call a lifter tick.

So what else can cause such a noise that I have not replaced or over looked?

My head shop says my valve springs and retainers are good btw. They checked all those prior to reinstalling them.

 

[gbradley]

Do a compression test on all cylinders. A cracked piston or ring land caused by detonation can cause smoking and engine noise issues.

 

[jrohner]

You can also hear the injectors which is a ticking sound. If you can't really hear it with the hood closed, it's probably the injectors you are hearing. What kind of oil do you use? Have you ever tried seafoam in your oil? That sometimes helps if it is the lifters. Have you checked your oil pressure with a real gauge? Low pressure is definitely a cause of ticking.

Phantom knock is definitely an issue on the 1g's, some just can't get around it without major hacking of the ECU code. Have you tried a new knock sensor? Tightening or loosening the sensor a bit?

 

[kristmen]

Do a compression test on all cylinders. A cracked piston or ring land caused by detonation can cause smoking and engine noise issues.

Engines fine. Did a compression test and a leak down before and after pulling the head for the last rebuild about 1500 miles ago.

You can also hear the injectors which is a ticking sound. If you can't really hear it with the hood closed, it's probably the injectors you are hearing. What kind of oil do you use? Have you ever tried seafoam in your oil? That sometimes helps if it is the lifters. Have you checked your oil pressure with a real gauge? Low pressure is definitely a cause of ticking.

Phantom knock is definitely an issue on the 1g's, some just can't get around it without major hacking of the ECU code. Have you tried a new knock sensor? Tightening or loosening the sensor a bit?

HRMMMMMMMM... It's very possible it is the injectors I'm hearing. The sound is on the intake side of the head for sure. I guess I just assumed it was valve train noise because of all the PK.

Knock sensor was factory new a couple years ago. Did not fix the PK issues. I can work around the PK with DSMLink no problem. Point is, I shouldn't have to. I should just be able to fix the issue but I can't figure out WHAT is causing it. It's not real detention.

 

[Polyol]

Do you still have your balance shafts? I had phantom knock in vacume for years. Replaced lifters, new oem knock sensor. Still had knock. I removed the balance shafts when I did my timing belt, and cams. Sence then I've had no phantom knock. It's been great, the years I had all the knock in vacume really would pissed me off.

 

[kristmen]

Do you still have your balance shafts? I had phantom knock in vacume for years. Replaced lifters, new oem knock sensor. Still had knock. I removed the balance shafts when I did my timing belt, and cams. Sence then I've had no phantom knock. It's been great, the years I had all the knock in vacume really would pissed me off.

Nope... Removed them when I did my engine rebuild.

I'm running Wiseco pistons on OEM big rods with ARP rod bolts and then full Mitsubishi parts other then that, (bearings, gaskets, oil pumps, gears etc).

Oh, ARP head studs too. Not that any of that matters, just pointing out it's fully rebuilt.

The problem is, I did too much at one time. This car was an AWD Auto but I did a Auto to 5 Speed swap using a new TRE trans and I also did a engine rebuild, head rebuild, new EVO III turbo and 4 bolt rear LSD, all in one shot so I don't know where the issue it. Something is knocking around somewhere enough to piss off the knock sensor.

I did notice my half shaft bearing is getting a little noisy (axle bearing on the back of the block) but it was not bad a few years ago when this started. I'm going to replace that anyway this weekend or next.

 

[jrohner]

My 1g has terrible phantom knock until the engine is warmed up, then it is gone. Does yours do it all the time, randomly, or just cold?

 

[crazyboi413]

In my search for new lifters i found some topline revised lifters of the 4g63 for $109.95

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Topline Revised Lifters : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99

good luck