Is my engine busted?

[Cooper-97gst]

so im crusing at a kewl 75 mph ( top down ) when all of sudden i loose power. the engine didnt cut off. i pull over and well i have tons of white smoke. i pop the hood to find out that my exhaust manifold is cherry red. after i break out the flash light i realize that the dip stick is partially pulled out. wtf happened!!! rpms were good and the water temp was good. honestly i never payed attention to the oil gauge. anyway the whole engine was coverd with oil that was throwen out threw the dip stick. as far as i know the oil systems are not pressurized like the cooling systems. Right? I towed the car home and the next morning put new oil in it. ( it was bone dry) there is no water in the oil and no oil in the water systems. does that mean my head is still good? the car runs and idles at 900rpm, nice and steady. as a result of all this i got a exhaust leak at the cat and a lot of white smoke when i rev. the car runs like crap now. pleease help. where do i start? a friend of mine said that my cat might have gotten clogged causing pressure to back up and throw the oil out the dip stick, does that make sense to anyone? I wanna get back on the road. thanks in advance for all your help! i will check the compression and post up the results....its a 97 gst spyder, bone stock with the exception of a hks cat back exhaust and a injen cold air intake and bov.

 

[crash89]

If your throwing white smoke from the tailpipe the cat being clogged is unlikely. Sounds like you have have blown your turbo (starved it of oil). Take your intake and maf off and check the turbo for shaft play. And you are right that the oilinig system is not pressurized like the cooling system however, blowby caused by bad rings can push the dipstick outof the sleve.

 

[awddarrell]

+1 on checking the turbo for shaft play. my old off brand 16g went bad. exhaust was blowing white/gray smoke. Sure enough, the shaft felt like i could almost pull it out if i gave enough tug.

car was still running fine too, aside from the smoke, BUT, the dipstick kept poping out on mine too, at the same time.

So check for shaft play up down side to side and in and out.

I got an MHI EIII 16g for 499 shipped from Forced Performance dont know if they are sill running that deal.

 

[LTUDSM]

so im crusing at a kewl 75 mph ( top down ) when all of sudden i loose power. the engine didnt cut off. i pull over and well i have tons of white smoke. i pop the hood to find out that my exhaust manifold is cherry red. after i break out the flash light i realize that the dip stick is partially pulled out. wtf happened!!! rpms were good and the water temp was good. honestly i never payed attention to the oil gauge. anyway the whole engine was coverd with oil that was throwen out threw the dip stick. as far as i know the oil systems are not pressurized like the cooling systems. Right? I towed the car home and the next morning put new oil in it. ( it was bone dry) there is no water in the oil and no oil in the water systems. does that mean my head is still good? the car runs and idles at 900rpm, nice and steady. as a result of all this i got a exhaust leak at the cat and a lot of white smoke when i rev. the car runs like crap now. pleease help. where do i start? a friend of mine said that my cat might have gotten clogged causing pressure to back up and throw the oil out the dip stick, does that make sense to anyone? I wanna get back on the road. thanks in advance for all your help! i will check the compression and post up the results....its a 97 gst spyder, bone stock with the exception of a hks cat back exhaust and a injen cold air intake and bov.

check your turbo for a shaft play,check your timing,it might be skipped a teeth because your engine was coverd in oil and thats why youre loosing power. for a glowing manifold- you might be running really lean,clogged cat.

 

[crusada]

I agree it more then likely is the turbo or its possible if he hasnt checked the compression the crank walked thats what happend to my 95gst and it did the same thing

 

[jerzeeog]

^^Not every engine issue is crankwalk. It is most likely the turbo. If the engine was bone dried as you stated then it was starved of oil. Hopefully the damage is not too severe and worse case scenario you will need rebuild or a new one.

Alsohe dipstick popping out is fairly common, just check the o-rings on the dipstick and make sure they are good.

Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk

 

[Bluefire16]

I agree it more then likely is the turbo or its possible if he hasnt checked the compression the crank walked thats what happend to my 95gst and it did the same thing

....did i really just hear someone suggest.... CRANK WALK?

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[crash89]

I agree it more then likely is the turbo or its possible if he hasnt checked the compression the crank walked thats what happend to my 95gst and it did the same thing

Very unlikely.. Your not going to get smoke from the exhaust from something that has nothing to do with flowing gases.. Crankwalk has totally different symptoms from what he was describing. Stop throwing that term out there when you clearly dont know how to diagnose it.

To the OP, I would advise you to drain the oil again, drop the oil pan and inspect your bottem end. Bearing shavings in the pan and play in the rods = no bueno..

 

[Cooper-97gst]

hey whats up guys i have the compression test results. sorry i took a whole daylong i have to make a living :/
here are the compresiion readings labeld 4,3,2,1 from left to right.
cyl 4= bar 10 145psi
cyl 3= bar 10.5 150 psi
cyl 2= bar no comp
cyl 1= bar 11.6 168 psi

i also found a lot of oil on the plug cyl 1(rediculous amount)
what should be my next step? i didnt bother checking the turbo since i didnt have compression on one of the cyl... i guess the problem arises there. i rule out a bad head ### oil on the plug is not one of the symptoms right?
also i found a 7 bolt on craigslist that claim to have 60,000 miles on it for $550...it came with block, head, turbo, injectors, and the tranny. do you guys think thats worth getting into? ill check for signs of crankwalk and let you guys know what i find. thanks again for your help and advice!

 

[delta448]

Leakdown test. Tell us where you hear air escaping for bad cylinders. Intake mani vs. exhaust mani, valve cover breather, etc.

How sure are you that it's oil on plug 1 and not just carbon/soot buildup?

Check your hydraulic tensioner and take a look at the mechanical timing.

 

[Talipse96]

I blew a gasket on my oil cooler. Blew oil all over the road and didn't even know it. I had issues with the dummy light and I wasn't watching the guage either.
I starved the engine of oil and ruined my 1st set of JE pistons. I wasn't happy.

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[Cooper-97gst]

im 100% sure its oil. i hear no leaks in the mani and there is one exhaust leak after the cat. btw i hear a clicking noisy thats in sync with the rythem of the engine....more rev= more clicks how do i check the hydraulic tensioner? ( i really should buy the book) do i need the gun for to check the machanical timing? or is there another way to check? i appreciate the help, im coming from the muscle car world. alot easier there.

 

[icekilla126]

with no compression in one of the cylinders there no chance in fixing anything without pulling it apart. time for a rebiuld if the block and head are still good.

 

[Cooper-97gst]

btw i checked the turbo for shaft play no up and down play, very very slight side to side. i think the turbo is good.i found oil in it on the intake side, not sure if thats normal????

ok what about the engine i mentioned in my previous post, you think its worth looking at? or what route do you think i should take if im rebuild? what pistons ect. ect. i have abt $1500 to blow on this now. i was thinking abt an evo3 eng. will that werk or am i better off building???

 

[icekilla126]

id say go with the used motor you found that way its a simple out and in. then u can tear down ## blown 1 see what happened and if you like biuld that in the spare time

 

[crash89]

also i found a 7 bolt on craigslist that claim to have 60,000 miles on it for $550...it came with block, head, turbo, injectors, and the tranny. do you guys think thats worth getting into? ill check for signs of crankwalk and let you guys know what i find. thanks again for your help and advice!

Whats up with the motor? Why was it pulled? Does the guy have any recipts? Deffinately worth looking at though. If it were me, Id pull the oil pan off and take a look at the bottem end just to be sure hes not tryin to screw me. Ya know? 550$ is pertty cheap for a good complete motor, so its deffinately worth checking out.

 

[delta448]

I'd buy a longblock only if I trusted the seller, or if I already planned on rebuilding it. But for you, this is probably the best option. I think I'd try to go with a company that offers any kind of guarantee or warranty over an individual you met by way of CL or eBay.

With no compression on a cylinder and oil soaking down another, you're in for an overhaul no matter what. If you don't want to have the car down long, buy a longblock and swap it.

If you're a DIYer, actually go do the leakdown test and find out whether the problem is in the bottom end, a valve or elsewhere. Then replace/repair what you need to. The VFAQ is your friend.

Mechanical Timing

Leakdown Test

 

[Cooper-97gst]

Whats up with the motor? Why was it pulled? Does the guy have any recipts? Deffinately worth looking at though. If it were me, Id pull the oil pan off and take a look at the bottem end just to be sure hes not tryin to screw me. Ya know? 550$ is pertty cheap for a good complete motor, so its deffinately worth checking out.

i called abt it and they had just sold it...ima keep looking. like i said i have $1500 for this now. ima look at my options and for what ever gives me the more bang for my buck. let me know if you find something better or have any suggestions. ### it looks like my bottom end is gone as off now. btw is there anything i could do now to avoid the crankwalk thing in the future?

the mechanical timing looks fine and i will do a leak down test tomorrow. i dont have the tool for it now. ill let you know the results aswell. do you know of a good company that sells long blocks in so-cal? and what can i expect to spend?

the mechanical timing looks fine and i will do a leak down test tomorrow. i dont have the tool for it now. ill let you know the results aswell. do you know of a good company that sells long blocks in so-cal? and what can i expect to spend?

 

[firefighter]

Pull the engine and check it out. you can do a nice rebuild for that amount of money.Start by checking the vendors on this site.Take the block to a good machine shop and have them go over the hole thing.Bore the cylinders and have them do a line boring for the crank.Get a remanufactured crank from DSM graveyard.Than have your conrods reconditioned or just replace.The job isnt that hard this way you'll its done right.

 

[crash89]

A good reliable way to rebuild the block in your car would be to get some 6 bolt rods, 7 bolt pistons, and a cylinder hone. You might not need a new crankshaft, but its possible since the motor was previously starved of oil. All of that along with new gaskets and bearings and a balance shaft elim and youd be set! However, if the cylinder walls are too bad its possible youll need to have them bored out. Take a look at DSMgraveyard, they usually have some good deals too!

 

[sirslex]

id say go with the used motor you found that way its a simple out and in. then u can tear down ## blown 1 see what happened and if you like biuld that in the spare time

+1

sounds like the route I would go (if the $550 motor is in decent shape)
..especially the rebuild in your spare time so you *know* everything is good.

 

[zanderson]

I would check the timing first, It could be that simple. You may just have bent valves in cylinder 1 or the belt could just have slipped a tooth or two causing the valves to be open at the wrong time. This could explain your compression. On the cam gears there are two notches. If you put the motor at tdc they will be on the far out sides. Starting on the left just above the notch count the teeth on the timing belt. There should be 39 teeth. As for blowing your dipstick I had a bad PCV vlave and pressurized my oil and kept blowing my out on my 95 tsi.

 

[Cooper-97gst]

A good reliable way to rebuild the block in your car would be to get some 6 bolt rods, 7 bolt pistons, and a cylinder hone. You might not need a new crankshaft, but its possible since the motor was previously starved of oil. All of that along with new gaskets and bearings and a balance shaft elim and youd be set! However, if the cylinder walls are too bad its possible youll need to have them bored out. Take a look at DSMgraveyard, they usually have some good deals too!

ive never rebuild a bottom end. but ive done all the werk on my cars. do you feel this is something i would be able to do myself? with the exceptiom of machining of course. what special tools would i need other than a torque rench? is there a book i can follow step by step. this a new car to me but ive done all the mods, theyre not many and no where near complicated. but i pull out and drop in motors on my chevy, changed heads and that kinda stuff.

I would check the timing first, It could be that simple. You may just have bent valves in cylinder 1 or the belt could just have slipped a tooth or two causing the valves to be open at the wrong time. This could explain your compression. On the cam gears there are two notches. If you put the motor at tdc they will be on the far out sides. Starting on the left just above the notch count the teeth on the timing belt. There should be 39 teeth. As for blowing your dipstick I had a bad PCV vlave and pressurized my oil and kept blowing my out on my 95 tsi.

thanks, i will check that out today before and report the results before pulling it out.

 

[crash89]

ive never rebuild a bottom end. but ive done all the werk on my cars. do you feel this is something i would be able to do myself? with the exceptiom of machining of course. what special tools would i need other than a torque rench? is there a book i can follow step by step. this a new car to me but ive done all the mods, theyre not many and no where near complicated. but i pull out and drop in motors on my chevy, changed heads and that kinda stuff.



thanks, i will check that out today before and report the results before pulling it out.

I too came from the old school chevy's and the only "complicated" thing that I had when I did my first engine swap was all the connectors. But if you lable every one upon pulling the engine, youll have no problems. I absolutely think you could do the rebuild yourself, you seem to have at least a good grasp basic mechanical skills. Either a Chilton/Haynes book would bee good to have, they have rebuild and refurbish step by step guides for this sort of thing. I bought a good 4g63 engine book from Barnes & Noble for like 20$. I forget the name of it though. It was in the car/engine rebuild section.

On a different note, Id advise you to use the shift key.. Proper grammer and punctuation is a big thing on here. Just lookin out.


EDIT: I looked up that book I bought.. Check it out. ---> http://www.amazon.com/Max-Performance-Mitsubishi-Engines-Design-Performance/dp/1932494626

 

[Jafro]

Also, since you're in California, check out msrecycling.com. They're local to you (6 hours away) and usually have a huge inventory of DSMs they're parting out. At least shipping (or pickup) would be fast. I've used them and I'm from Virginia.

Once you know what you need to replace, it could definitely help speed things along.