Im stumped..FP3065 or bigger?

[little-razcal]

I need some help guys..Im rather confused at this point. Im currently neck deep in my build, and Im to the point where nothing is good enough and I am ready to just give it all up. I get set on one thing and then think twice down the road.

So..the point at hand, I have a fresh FP3065 straight from FP ready to bolt on to my 6 bolt. My goal is anything over 500whp. I know the 3065 is supposed to push 65lbs/min depending on mods and can be a decent turbo to use, so Ive researched. Ive been looking at the 35R's instead of the 3065 but am kinda confused at this point because I dont know if it is worth swapping. It seems as though I see 35R's making more power easier than the 3065 and for longer. I want to be able to rev this thing and not fall off before 8000 either. The small housing on the 3065 scares me and if I can sell it now and get a 35R I want to do that. What lbs/min is the 35R? I read it was 65lbs also but this cant be. I will be running Meth injection with 93 or 94 octane if that helps. Sorry about the long post guys. Im just confused. Im already selling my new Crower springs to get kiggly's I just want to do it right the first time I guess. Its to much money to do it twice. My mods are below. Please let me know if you think it is better to go 35R or not, and if its thats much diffrent. Also do you think 500whp is attainable with my mods on 94 and meth? I dont have E85 around me. Thanks people.

Current mods:

J.A.M Spec-Stage II - 6Bolt .20over, Weisco 8:3.1, Manely "H", ARP'd, BSE, B@B , Ported 1G Head , kiggly springs, L19's, 280's, AEM CG's, FP3065, FP ex. mani, FP 4" intake, 3" GM MAF w/ecmlink cable, 9"K&N, JMFAB "Race" SMIM, 75mm 5.0 TB, ETS Race 3.5"core, ETS 2.5" piping, Tial 50mm BOV, Precision 46mm WG, FP 2.5" O2,-6an feed/return, Wally 255hp, RC1000cc's, Aero AFPR, Magnus fuel rail, Fidanza FW, ACT2600, Hallman pro, AEM WB, ECMLINK V3, SMC V2 Meth injection, Defi link-Boost/EGT, Shep Stage 3-Evo III 1st-3/4ds,

 

[aadperformance]

I need some help guys..Im rather confused at this point. Im currently neck deep in my build, and Im to the point where nothing is good enough and I am ready to just give it all up. I get set on one thing and then think twice down the road.

So..the point at hand, I have a fresh FP3065 straight from FP ready to bolt on to my 6 bolt. My goal is anything over 500whp. I know the 3065 is supposed to push 65lbs/min depending on mods and can be a decent turbo to use, so Ive researched. Ive been looking at the 35R's instead of the 3065 but am kinda confused at this point because I dont know if it is worth swapping. It seems as though I see 35R's making more power easier than the 3065 and for longer. I want to be able to rev this thing and not fall off before 8000 either. The small housing on the 3065 scares me and if I can sell it now and get a 35R I want to do that. What lbs/min is the 35R? I read it was 65lbs also but this cant be. I will be running Meth injection with 93 or 94 octane if that helps. Sorry about the long post guys. Im just confused. Im already selling my new Crower springs to get kiggly's I just want to do it right the first time I guess. Its to much money to do it twice. My mods are below. Please let me know if you think it is better to go 35R or not, and if its thats much diffrent. Also do you think 500whp is attainable with my mods on 94 and meth? I dont have E85 around me. Also do I need an inline also? Thanks people.

Current mods:

J.A.M Spec-Stage II - 6Bolt .20over, Weisco 8:3.1, Manely "H", ARP'd, BSE, B@B , Ported 1G Head , kiggly springs, L19's, 280's, AEM CG's, FP3065, FP ex. mani, FP 4" intake, 3" GM MAF w/ecmlink cable, 9"K&N, JMFAB "Race" SMIM, 75mm 5.0 TB, ETS Race 3.5"core, ETS 2.5" piping, Tial 50mm BOV, Precision 46mm WG, FP 2.5" O2,-6an feed/return, Wally 255hp, RC1000cc's, Aero AFPR, Magnus fuel rail, Fidanza FW, ACT2600, Hallman pro, AEM WB, ECMLINK V3, SMC V2 Meth injection, Defi link-Boost/EGT, Shep Stage 3-Evo III 1st-3/4ds,

You say you want to rev past 8k but it looks like your clutch will hold you back more than the turbo.

 

[kidtsi]

fp3065 exhaust housing is restrictive because is a Mitsubishi housing. i think u should go 35r because its t3 and more pump gas friendly

 

[little-razcal]

You say you want to rev past 8k but it looks like your clutch will hold you back more than the turbo.

My clutch or my PP? Im running a 4 puck unsprung if that helps. I dont think the PP is going to hold me up. Ive seen people run very high numbers with the 2600 with a 6 puck, 4 puck, even the street disc. I really cant afford a twin disc after all this shit I bought. But I admit, this is one of the things I have doubted also. I picked it up cheap as a combo and thought Id give it a try. I interested on knowing just how much power I will be looking at.

fp3065 exhaust housing is restrictive because is a Mitsubishi housing. i think u should go 35r because its t3 and more pump gas friendly

. Its more the size of the exhaust housing than the actual shape. FP claims it is a .67 a/r. But yea, that 35R looks more tempting.

Any FP3065 users out there making power? Chime in please..Id like to keep this if possible.

 

[diambo4life]

I have run both. 35R makes more power....obviously but takes more $$ to set up correctly if running in true T3 or T4. However, if you already have the FP3065, which it seems like you do, I would run it. It's a potent turbo that should not be underestimated and will make 500whp+ very easily as well.

When it comes to the different HP capability between these two turbos, it's the turbine WHEEL that's important. LB/MIN of the compressor wheel is irrelevant here.

 

[kottyking]

fp3065 exhaust housing is restrictive because is a Mitsubishi housing. i think u should go 35r because its t3 and more pump gas friendly

This isn't entirely true. While the exhaust housing is mitsubishi "style" as in bolts in like a mitsubishi turbo would, the housing is actually made by FP custom.

 

[NB4G63T]

You say you want to rev past 8k but it looks like your clutch will hold you back more than the turbo.

That's not entirely true, my 2600 has taken everything I could though at it. I know it's close to the limit but I wouldn't sell it just cause you think it won't take the abuse, there a good clutch.

I would keep your 3065, yes a t3 turbine hotside would make more horse power up top but that fp hotside is going to meet your goal of 500whp no problem.

I made 563 on mine. Our setups are very similar and I'm injecting meth as well so you should be good to go on the power you want to make on pump gas. That's my car you commented on YT and I'm the same guy who bought you jm fab heat shield.

Go with L19's no question and let me know if you need any help tuning if you go SD. Get a hold of me on link!!!

Good luck with the build

 

[NB4G63T]

Also I can hold 33-35 till redline with my fp hotside, don't worry about not being able to not hold high boost till redline. I made 563 with boost at 37 and falling to 35 by 8750. So I feel you will be able to meet your goal.

 

[andy4g63]

FP hotside of 0.68 AR is anything but restrictive, as someone suggested above... AMS was and probably still using 0.63AR turbine for their 35 R turbos/ on in most cases/........
For the OP having a FP mani and 3065 already is not worth it to change to a T3-4 setups, like Diambo said.. Having the 30R turbine is probably good thing on a 2.0L and Mitsu flanged turbo..
If build properly this car is going to rip bad... Just run it... The car will make thoretically around 500 or more somewhere around 30 PSI or so better check your fuel system and injectors.
The 1000 cc will be sufficient for race gas and probably for 93 octane, but if youwant to drive it every day around 30 PSI/ to get the 500WHP number it's better to switch toE-85...

 

[little-razcal]

You guys really made my day..no bull...This build has caused me nothing but pain..and its all still in boxes. My girl recently cheated on me after five years cause quote "all you do is spend time on those stupid forums for that stupid old car ". Well thats what the b*itch said anyway, even though I know she is just a Whore. Needless to say I think I have reasoning to feel the way I do about giving up. On the other hand, this is why I reached out to you guys and I needed you're support, corny sounding or not. All of you guys have very respectable builds and I value your input. Ive decided to go ahead and keep the FP3065 and give it a whirl. Like Andy4g63 said...I believe this car will rip also. There is nothing cheap to my build andI tried not to slack on the mods . My pockets are feeling it though I hope its worth it. I got the kiggly's and the L19's on the way so that is a burden off my shoulders. Now what to do about these cams Notice I didnt put what type of 280's they were....You know what they are..and if I had the money, Id switch to kelfords or FP's in a heartbeat. But I think I will try them out, bad rep or not. For now anyways.. Anyway..thanks for the reply's and I will be contacting you NB4g63T sometime soon. Hope the heat shield worked out for you. Thanks guys. Any other things you think I should change? Is a low 11 second pass attainable?

 

[1997_GSX]

Low elevens should definitely be possible as long and you can drive Looks like you have a pretty nice build going on. I have fun on my little 54 trim, it spools decently and around 34 psi flows around 48lb per minute which is really fun . Rolling in first and no lift shifting to second I could burn the tires to redline on 245s in the rain.

I'd rock the 3065 in a heart beat .

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

The only reason the 35R makes more power than the 3065 is the 30R wheel and housing on the 3065. That turbo is very potent and is a GREAT bolt-on unit. I've personally gone 10.63@135 on the 3065 using a garbage 2G exhaust manifold. With the right setup, it will easily deliver all of your goals in mind.

 

[little-razcal]

The only reason the 35R makes more power than the 3065 is the 30R wheel and housing on the 3065. That turbo is very potent and is a GREAT bolt-on unit. I've personally gone 10.63@135 on the 3065 using a garbage 2G exhaust manifold. With the right setup, it will easily deliver all of your goals in mind.

10.63 at 135 is a very respectable time for anybody..let alone a little 4 banger. It still amazes me just how much power this platform achieves. Would you mind sharing some of your secrets? Weight reduction? Fuel?
As for the fp3065 input, all this is just what I wanted to hear. I think the financial strain played a part of all this doubt . I was in the mindset like, "If Im spending all these thousands of dollars, why am I getting something I am going to struggle with to achieve power". I now disagree with my thinking and am hoping for the best with what I have. I will have a good foundation for the future, if I were to upgrade. Shit...I would like nothing more than to run 10's, but 11's isnt bad either. I mean, who out there is running 10's and 11's and still drive it on the street. Very few people. Im about to start digging in to this car this weekend and maybe that will help my inspiration. I need to find someone that knows how to assemble a head with these kiggly's to the correct install height, cause I dont have the tools or means to do it. Id go back to Jackson, but they kinda rubbed me the wrong way the last time I was there. I know this is all off topic so Ill leave it at that. I have a few more questions, but Ill start another thread about that. I will say that if you guys see anything that I might want to change, please chime in. Now is the time. Im not trying to have that one thing that is holding me back. Oh..and I already know about the clutch...and PP..I do have a 3 bolt rear still..What your thought s on handling this power with that? Im going to swap but thats after I get this thing rolling. Thanks

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

10.63 at 135 is a very respectable time for anybody..let alone a little 4 banger. It still amazes me just how much power this platform achieves. Would you mind sharing some of your secrets? Weight reduction? Fuel?
As for the fp3065 input, all this is just what I wanted to hear. I think the financial strain played a part of all this doubt . I was in the mindset like, "If Im spending all these thousands of dollars, why am I getting something I am going to struggle with to achieve power". I now disagree with my thinking and am hoping for the best with what I have. I will have a good foundation for the future, if I were to upgrade. Shit...I would like nothing more than to run 10's, but 11's isnt bad either. I mean, who out there is running 10's and 11's and still drive it on the street. Very few people. Im about to start digging in to this car this weekend and maybe that will help my inspiration. I need to find someone that knows how to assemble a head with these kiggly's to the correct install height, cause I dont have the tools or means to do it. Id go back to Jackson, but they kinda rubbed me the wrong way the last time I was there. I know this is all off topic so Ill leave it at that. I have a few more questions, but Ill start another thread about that. I will say that if you guys see anything that I might want to change, please chime in. Now is the time. Im not trying to have that one thing that is holding me back. Oh..and I already know about the clutch...and PP..I do have a 3 bolt rear still..What your thought s on handling this power with that? Im going to swap but thats after I get this thing rolling. Thanks

?

Very simple setup. Built 8.5:1 2.0L motor. Ported head, 1mm OS valves, FP2 cams. Forrester intake manifold. Fuel was E85. 255hp in-tank feeding a Bosch 044 inline. 1600's tuned with DSMLink. Car was full weight minus front/rear bumpers and A/C removed. Full interior, full power.

The 3 bolt will give up it's ghost rather quickly at those power levels with any type of serious launching.

 

[xezerax]

That 3 bolt rear wont last very long, depending on your driving. I was snapping 3 bolt axles every weekend with my old 16g setup making like 280whp. Definatly look into a 4 bolt swap.

 

[daren_p]

If you can't make 500whp on the 3065 with pump gas & meth, you need a new hobby

If you didn't already have a turbo & were looking to buy a Mitsu style, I'd say go for the DSM82, it will make your goals even easier & spool just as well as the 3065 but since you already have the 3065, run it! 500whp is defently a doable goal with that turbo. With enough boost, you should see the 65 lb/min that turbo is rated for. A local is running mid 10's on his 3065, pump gas, meth & street car. Believe he traps 135-140mph range.

I'm currently on the smaller 3052, it flows 48-49lb/min all day long at street boost of 24-25psi (in hot weather using cams that aren't designed for topend flow). 30psi on the 3065 & a better cam should get you close to the 60lb/min mark, without any problems.