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I need minimum requirements for a 2.3 setup

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2point3Tsi

15+ Year Contributor
225
5
Jan 12, 2007
Maple Valley, Washington
Long post, proceed with patience<br> Sorry this is in the noob forum, I have many questions that I need assisstance on, mainly just idiot proofing myself ,previous car experiance is fine for imports, know my way around a multi-meter well and do as much as possible myself[sans the engine balancing/prep for stroker] . My goals for the car are 350-500hp DD. Heres what I curently have:<br> dsmlink<br> 6-bolt bottom end+girdle<br>ARP rods, mains, and head studs <br> 100mm eagle crank + rods<br> wiseco 8.8:1<br> FP3 cams<br> supertech dual valve springs + titanium retainers. ACT 2600 + street disc<br> chromemoly flywheel<br> <br> I have also removed BS and ported my filter housing.
This is my list of parts to go on after break in but I haven't purchased yet.
dvdt intercooler(I wish, at the moment I will settle for this evo 8 I have sitting here)
remote air/oil cooler, 2.5 IC piping, Tial external 38mm
garrett or fp gt(I want fastest spool possible)
required fuel mods.
Current questions:<br> <br> 1)What to choose for fuel delivery(walboro 255 or bosch inline), changing stock line to -6an from tank(is this neccessary?) FIC injectors is 1000cc overkill(may want more hp later) and also who runs a dual feed fuel rail?
<br> <br> 2)which turbo? I have been looking between FP and garrett and would like to go full garrett for flow reasons so I'm looking at 3052/3065 or garrett equivalent.
<br> 3) manifold choices(ugh...) so I would like a divided t3 equal length tubular(yes I know its a street car) but it seems like I have to buy the flanges and have the rest custom done. The other choice was the cast ERL but price is close to tubular.<br> <br> 4)Optimal WG location, O2 external WG or collector pick-up?<br> <br>
5) MBC or EBC? ebc seems to be required for what I'm looking for(15psi for the 1st boost setting 25psi for the second)<br> <br>
6) preventative maintainence: Its been sitting since october so I could save for this, what steps should be done in regards to this first restart(like drain the gas tank/new gas, filters, oil,ect.<br> <br>To all who reply thanks for sitting through this and all opinions are considered, I just want to do this the least amount of times possible(do it once, do it right)<br> <br> just remember, I'm looking for what I SAFELY need to run this motor after break in. I haven't decided on gauge specifics but I will have a wideband 02, egt, boost/fuel/oil pressure guages. Please lemme know what I forgot thanks -Chris
 
Long post, proceed with patience<br> Sorry this is in the noob forum, I have many questions that I need assisstance on, mainly just idiot proofing myself ,previous car experiance is fine for imports, know my way around a multi-meter well and do as much as possible myself[sans the engine balancing/prep for stroker] . My goals for the car are 350-500hp DD. Heres what I curently have:<br> dsmlink<br> 6-bolt bottom end+girdle<br>ARP rods, mains, and head studs <br> 100mm eagle crank + rods<br> wiseco 8.8:1<br> FP3 cams<br> supertech dual valve springs + titanium retainers. ACT 2600 + street disc<br> chromemoly flywheel<br> <br> I have also removed BS and ported my filter housing.

Sounds good, are you going to be building the motor yourself or having a shop do it? Some quick things that are missing would be main and rod bearings, headgasket, all the other gaskets, and then all of the timing belt/waterpump/etc parts that you should replace. There are a lot of other parts you'll need as well. Follow the stage 2 list on the DSMtuners build list. (found in the Tech/DIY section)

This is my list of parts to go on after break in but I haven't purchased yet.
dvdt intercooler(I wish, at the moment I will settle for this evo 8 I have sitting here)
remote air/oil cooler, 2.5 IC piping, Tial external 38mm
garrett or fp gt(I want fastest spool possible)
required fuel mods.
Current questions:<br> <br> 1)What to choose for fuel delivery(walboro 255 or bosch inline), changing stock line to -6an from tank(is this neccessary?) FIC injectors is 1000cc overkill(may want more hp later) and also who runs a dual feed fuel rail?
You could do what you want with a single or dual walbro 255s, but I'd rather go large in the first place and get the aeromotive or bosch pumps. Again, upgraded lines fromt he tank and back are not required, but are beneficial things to "do it right". I'd also run a new return line. FIC 1000ccs are fine with DSMlink, and if you think you might try E85, you should go bigger. I personally don't see the benefit of an upgraded fuel rail at the power levels you are talking about, much less a dual feed.
<br> <br> 2)which turbo? I have been looking between FP and garrett and would like to go full garrett for flow reasons so I'm looking at 3052/3065 or garrett equivalent.
If you are replacing the manifold and o2 housing/downpipe anyway, it doesn't relaly matter. The fp30 turbine housing is bad ass though.
<br> 3) manifold choices(ugh...) so I would like a divided t3 equal length tubular(yes I know its a street car) but it seems like I have to buy the flanges and have the rest custom done. The other choice was the cast ERL but price is close to tubular.<br> <br> 4)Optimal WG location, O2 external WG or collector pick-up?<br> <br>
Talk to Shearer Fabrications. They'll be able to make whatever you want. You really don't NEED equal length, or divided outlet, as the turbos you are looking at don't have divided inlets.
5) MBC or EBC? ebc seems to be required for what I'm looking for(15psi for the 1st boost setting 25psi for the second)<br> <br>
6) preventative maintainence: Its been sitting since october so I could save for this, what steps should be done in regards to this first restart(like drain the gas tank/new gas, filters, oil,ect.<br> <br>To all who reply thanks for sitting through this and all opinions are considered, I just want to do this the least amount of times possible(do it once, do it right)<br> <br> just remember, I'm looking for what I SAFELY need to run this motor after break in. I haven't decided on gauge specifics but I will have a wideband 02, egt, boost/fuel/oil pressure guages. Please lemme know what I forgot thanks -Chris

You could technically make an MBC that would do what you want (I think people sell them as well) EBC might just be easier though. Make sure you get one that has the type of switch you want to use (RPM, gear etc)
For the restart, i'd get some fresh gas, fresh non detergant, non synthetic oil, new filters. Make sure you prime the motor with oil before starting, and change the oil and filter after the first startup/break in drive.
 
If you are going with one 255 you might want to look at the Supra pump. It will give you more room to grow if you decide to. Also do the fuel pump rewire. Changing the stock lines will help a lot. I did mine with -6 AN, but I wish I had just went with -8 AN instead. Then I would never have to worry about them again. The -6 will provide flow for 1000cc injectors, but with E85 you will need bigger injectors and the -8 lines will help.
 
I'm having the bottom end balanced an assembled. Also new front and rear main seals, new oil pump, new main and rod bearings, everything line honed ect. Timing/WP components all oem. <br><br>As for the inline bosch pumps do I just use it to boost the factory pump or remove it?<br>E85.... only two locations it list in washington that I'm allowed to fill it up at both in the eastern half of the state(116 trick fuel is only 30mins awayLOL.<br>
http://www.atpturbo.com/ carries the divided gt t3 turbos.<br><br>For the fuel rail I was just talking about tapping the other end for an inlet and tapping a hole in the center for the return. I have just heard of people leaning out on the #1 cylinder from fuel starvation.
 
i see that you havent say anythting about tranny ,axles
at that level having your tranny blowing up in back of your mind is no fun
 
A good choice for a Turbo would be a GT30R. It can hit your goal without problems. Decent street spool for such a large turbo but it wont drop power up top.

You might want to look into changing your cams though if your main goal is driveability. I have the similar FP3x and WOW, kiss your idle good bye. If you dont mind a crappy idle its ok but this is a cam that you would definety want to keep your ISC to help with idle.
Makes it sound like a cammed LS7.

Fuel wise, a Rewire Supra pump wil be ok, You might want to upgrade to -6an Lines though and definetly ditch that stock fuel filter. I dont have any experience with E85 because its not available here in Canada yet so I would stick with other peoples opinion if you plan on running it.
 
i see that you havent say anythting about tranny ,axles
at that level having your tranny blowing up in back of your mind is no fun

<br> just got my tranny back from shep, basic stage 3 w/ 4 spider center, I was looking into the axles and driveshaft but was told stock should hold. Axles and driveshafts are easy enough to change if they break.<br>
You might want to look into changing your cams though if your main goal is driveability. I have the similar FP3x and WOW, kiss your idle good bye.

Fuel wise, a Rewire Supra pump wil be ok, You might want to upgrade to -6an Lines though and definetly ditch that stock fuel filter.
Yea I heard the fp3x suck in the idle department but mine should be bearable. by this I mean probably 10-in vac at idle, a little bit hard to push the brakes but nothin I can't deal with. <br><br>So whats A good aftermarket fuel filter? Does aeromotive make one?
 
<br> just got my tranny back from shep, basic stage 3 w/ 4 spider center, I was looking into the axles and driveshaft but was told stock should hold. Axles and driveshafts are easy enough to change if they break.<br>
Yea I heard the fp3x suck in the idle department but mine should be bearable. by this I mean probably 10-in vac at idle, a little bit hard to push the brakes but nothin I can't deal with. <br><br>So whats A good aftermarket fuel filter? Does aeromotive make one?

The "Golan" rebadged/sold as a Mr. Gasket fuel filter is one of the best. High flow, AN fittings, replaceable/cleanable filter element, very good filtering, and compact.

If I were you, I'd throw an FP3052, or FP3065 on an FP exhaust mani and be set. Some race fuel and 30 + psi would be cake for the motor you're building, and you could get 500whp with the 3052 if you pushed it.
 
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