I can't figure this out... Need a guru please!

[1gcrazy]

So here we go...
1720/2000, GVR4

Built motor with good compression
stock everything else.

I've fixed all the hack job ecu work. reconnected all the wires where they should be.
No CEL's
Verified pump works by connecting it 100% to the battery.(even during starting and such)
I've fixed the broken #24 ecu trace and verified the O2 sensor is good.
Cas is set right where the nut mark is
TPS is connected and not set but again where the nut mark was
I THINK the Coolant temp sensor is hooked up, all the wires down there are one big cluster####. I tried to figure out which wires went where and I think i have them right.
I've swapped wires going to the CTS
Coolant temp sensor gauge is connected
I quadruple checked the timing when I put the block together.
New tensioner
New belt
New plugs
New wires
Ecu caps are fine
Verified spark to each cylinder

*Tried verifying injectors firing with a noid light tester but couldn't get ANY of the injectors to light ANY of my noid lights up BUT it still runs when there's fuel in the rail and the fuel pump is OFF!

Battery is charged
Knock sensor is plugged in, all my fuses on the battery are good.

It will run for a couple minutes, not very good but still runs, then the fuel in the rail runs out.

 

[luv2rallye]

Did you check for a leaky fuel pressure regulator?

 

[1gcrazy]

Did you check for a leaky fuel pressure regulator?

I swapped regulators with a different one I had from another running car, When I took it off it POPPED showing high fuel pressure and swapped the new one in and same problem. The regulator is vacced to the intake mani.

 

[luv2rallye]

New fuel filter? Try both a pressure and volume test of fuel at the rail?

 

[1gcrazy]

First, how do I go about doing that?
Also, my filter in new.

And, It would take about 5 cranks of the starter to get the car to start to chug, then once it chugged it would start to turn over very slowly which leads me to believe its flooding via a sensor. The fuel pump is also new.

 

[floader]

base timing way off?

 

[luv2rallye]

Are the plugs all wet? If ECU is not getting coolant sensor signal it will run rich. Did you do a continuity (ohms) test to verify that the sensor ground really is connected to ECU pin 24? Pressure should stay in the fuel rail for hours after turning off. If not you've got a bad valve/leak somewhere (FPR or check valve in FP, or leaking injector). Or yes, base timing way off.

 

[1gcrazy]

Timing on logger says 5 degrees, i'll double check that. Plugs are black due to all the fuel.

I'll also check the 24th pin

 

[Redwidow]

If you are loosing Fuel pressure when its trying to run, can you still hear the pump running? I would try to test the power wire at the pump and see if its loosing power when it tries to start.

 

[1gcrazy]

The pump is fine, Its hardwired directly to the pump, its either a sensor or timing.

Are the plugs all wet? If ECU is not getting coolant sensor signal it will run rich. Did you do a continuity (ohms) test to verify that the sensor ground really is connected to ECU pin 24? Pressure should stay in the fuel rail for hours after turning off. If not you've got a bad valve/leak somewhere (FPR or check valve in FP, or leaking injector). Or yes, base timing way off.

You! YOU SIR! YOU"are TEH EFFKiN MAN!!!
Oh mah gawd she runs!

Hey guess what guys... I have a galant VR4, nope not just a shell with a motor, a built galant vr4!!!!


Sooo effing excited!

"sensor ground really is connected to ECU pin 24"
This is what did it btw. I had the wrong wire with the signal wire to the CTS

THANK YOU!

What the deuce.... now its throwing a cel, code is 21, mmcd says thats a Coolant Temp Sensor....??? Didn't I just fix that?

 

[luv2rallye]

Disconnect battery minus cable for 60 sec to reset ECU codes, reconnect, and run it again.