hows this for a non turbo setup?

[t-dogg10]

Originally posted by Eclipse96Ryder
i own both a non turbo and turbo...so i would know

cocky soundin son of a b-word

just kiding, but seriously man, maybe all people dont want to go with a turb, i know i dont, because im more into auto-x/road race, and the turbo lag kinda sucks for that. so if he wants to throw around that kind of money on an n/t (like i do) let him do it, ok.

 

[1gDsmRacer92]

hey man thanks for the support, i am also into auto cross and curcite tracks, and turbo can be a big problem there, thanks again dude

 

[skater182]

haha non turbo isnt as bad as they make it out to be, my first race ever in my car was agianst 95 ford probe gt. it was realy funny becuase before the race he was all braging about how his car has aroud 230 hp and all this bull sh!t. so we take it to a diserted street and race, threw 1st grear we were right next to each other, 2nd i started to creep on him and once i shifted into 3rd i blew past him,... it was a great day for my 4 cylinder,... crushing a v6 :laugh:
i love my car

 

[Morphius]

Originally posted by mavisky
don't use the turbo injectors unless you intend to wire up the injector resistor pack along with it.

Can you explain that one? Are you talking about the power transistor?

 

[mavisky]

Originally posted by Morphius
Can you explain that one? Are you talking about the power transistor?

its a small box mounted to the firewall of the turbo cars. it lowers the impedance of the signal going to them since the turbo injectors run low impedance as opposed to the nt injector's high impedance.

 

[Morphius]

Originally posted by mavisky
its a small box mounted to the firewall of the turbo cars. it lowers the impedance of the signal going to them since the turbo injectors run low impedance as opposed to the nt injector's high impedance.

Got a pic showing it's location and what it looks like?

 

[Darbrrats]

Originally posted by cxx
Heated air, caused by engine heat.

Just wrap you're headers or exhaust manifold and that will take care of most of the heat issues.

 

[Daedalus]

I am going to be taking off the air can come spring... If I kept the stock heat shild over the exhaust manifold I wouldnt have these heat issues would i? I dont want to build a air box for it!

 

[Initial DSM]

Actually, the newer Venom intake manifolds are made with a round plenum as opposed to the old style box plenum design that would crack at the welds, so I think it would be okay. Personally looking at the price of it however, I'd opt for the Magnus one since its already proven on the track; and Ive seen one and helped a friend install it too. With that high a compression (id stick to 11:1 btw), youre prolly better off getting a e-manage or maybe even a stand alone. high cp NA cars can be even harder to tune than turbo cars, plus theres the fact that you need to run some serious high octane to make it run right. If you look on ebay, you can find sometimes, Accel DFI 6 for like 600. I bought one for $400. Most people usualy only set this up for to control fuel only since it needs a distributor. the newer 7 version runs distributorless but thats $1500. In order for you to run a 6 as a true standalone, you'd have to fabricate a distributor onto your car with an ignition box as well like Crane or MSD. Mazda mx-6 distributor will work fine. To avoid the high octane problem , snowperformance.net (?) , I believe, makes a Methanol/water injection kit for $300 that will allow you to run pump gas and increase the octane level so you dont have to use race gas in order for the car to run right. Also adds additional hp to the setup which is a bonus. Not 100% sure if this will work accuratly for NA, since the site mainly caters to supercharged or boosted cars, but its good to find out. Also heard propane injection is another option, but not too familiar with that either. But yeay, keep in mind with that setup NA, it'll be quite hard to tune with a stock ecu, even if you get a chip like venoms which i heard is garbage.

I'd also look into increasing the displacement of your motor to 2.3L with a stroker kit (like the one carshopinc.com sells for $950) to increase your torque since you wont be boosted. bore it .40 over and you'll be close to 2.4L. With the weight of your car and your mod list plus what I just added, you should be around 230 to 250whp if tuned right.