How to remove the ABS/Speed Sensor from the hub?

[Woodsy0]

In the middle of taking out my spindle/hub assembly to get ES bushings pressed in. It's mostly all loose, just need to disconnect the ABS sensor that runs to the rotor. My guess is that it would be a pry-job, I just don't want to gorilla the thing out without being sure. Any help?

Thanks,

Scott

 

[luv2rallye]

They're pressed in so tight that usually you have to destroy them with hammers, chisels, pry bars to remove them. They also have a plastic case which cracks if I remember right.

 

[Woodsy0]

Beautiful. So is there any chance of actually salvaging the sensor in the process of getting it off, or should I plan on having to buy a new one?

 

[luv2rallye]

Well I got one out without damage but the others disintigrated. Maybe you'll have better luck.

 

[halfan8]

If you are just pressing in bushings, disconnect them from their associated connectors up on top of the rear sub frame, it blows but you can do it. Most likely you will destroy them trying to get them out and they aren't cheap ($120 a piece at the dealer). I was doing the same thing (bushings), after wrecking the first one I just unplugged the rest of them.

 

[hereitcomes]

you can salgave them depending if your car is rusted or corroded. I needed a new hub assebley in the front with an ABS sensor because it was so corroded that it needed to be air hammered out : ( hub assembley with abs was $97 from mits. dealer. the ABS sensors are ok though.

 

[tommiman]

Could anyone give more infomation on how to remove this connector. I've removed the screw there but the connector won't come off. Tried prying with a chisel and pulling it out with vise grips but nothing works.

 

[jr julien]

i recently broke one gettting it out due to corrosion, other than the bolt on the top its supposed to slide out, mine didnt slide out too well so im going to have to replace it.

wish i would have known where the connector was when i started the job... although the heat from burning out the siezed axle/hhub assembly probably would have wrecked it anyways.

 

[motozachl]

They're pressed in so tight that usually you have to destroy them with hammers, chisels, pry bars to remove them. They also have a plastic case which cracks if I remember right.

just bashed mine with hammer/s

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Patience and PB Blaster are your friends here. You need to get plenty of pentrating oil down in there after you remove the bolt. You need to try to twist it instead of pulling or prying on it. Once you get it to twist freely you will be able to slide it right out.

 

[housegsx]

They won't come out without breaking them. Even then, they probably won't come out.

 

[knochgoon24]

I have 2 busted ones on my car. Stupid wheel bearings / seized axles.

 

[housegsx]

I cut the harnesses out and moved on with life. Those sensors are too expensive for me.

 

[knochgoon24]

I'll eventually pull some from a local junkyard. Or I'll order up some used ones off eBay.

The Sebring/Avenger/Talon/Eclipse all share the same ABS sensors on the fronts. The FWD all have the same rears, and the AWD all have the same rears.

I haven't compared the FWD and AWD rear sensors to see what the differences might be.

 

[ZeGaNe69]

Hi.

This question is not about sensor, but about ABS rotor (ring)
I have Galant 2.5 V6 AWD E88 (7-th generation) With same drivetrain as 2G Eclipse. Now we discovered that ABS is not working, rear ABS rotors are rusted away. Because of not working ABS the 4 wheel steering is not working too.

I know that front rotors have 43 teeth, so I assume that rear`s have same amount.
Rear outer CV joints are a little rusty, I doubt that new ABS rotors will stay at them.

Where can I get new outer CV joints? Can somebody tell me some specifications about outer CV joint? (like inner teeth amount, outer diameter for boot, length etc.
Perhaps front outer CV joint is the same as rear outer, isn`t it?

Thanks for your help

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