How long has your COP lasted?

[VETTE_50_TH]

So, Im thinking about going to a COP with the Dynatek Arc-2 ignition. However, as i was thinking about this, i wondered how long do these coil on plugs last for, becuase i do not want to be soldering and resoldering these guys every year. That would suck.

Anyway, how long have to had yours for, and tell me if the are using the stock power transistor or an aftermarket standalone CDI. And.....tell me your experiences with it and how it works for you.

James

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

I have had mine on since February. The coils were used and came off of a 100k mile Intrepid from the junkyard. I use the stock power transistor. I'm sure that's not the BEST way to fire these but I don't have a need for MSD or other standalone CDI system. If I were running a way larger turbo at a much more considerable amount of boost I would look into it. But, until then it has been working just fine.

Stock 2.0L
16g @ 23psi on pump gas

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

I had mine on for a month without any problems. I got the coil from a dodge intripid with almost 150k miles in the junk yard. Im using my stock power transistor. when i put them on, i felt a slight change. the rpm goes up smoother compared to the coil pack and plug wires.

16g @20psi 91 octane pump gas.

 

[jshuman]

I have been using a cop setup for about 6 months now and I have put nearly 3000 miles on it. So far, I have no regrets on going with a cop setup. I made a tech article on wiring a cop setup and I had planned on updating it with how it has performed, but I just keep forgetting to. Anyways, I am using the stock power transistor. I am only running about 17psi on my setup right now because I need to replace valve seals, but it performs very well. When I first installed it, I was pushing 22-23psi and I could run to 7500 rpms without even the slightest stutter. I also have the plugs at the standard gap of .028". As soon as I replace the valve seals I will be turning the boost up to 27-28 psi and I will definitely update the article. I just want to see how it holds up to higher boost before adding an ignition amp.

Here is a link to my article if you want to know what parts I used for my setup.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/290665-coil-plug-wiring-install-pics-part-1-a.html

Hope that helps,
Justin

 

[KYNgsx]

I've had my setup for about 3 years. I originally upgraded because my stock coils and power transistor needed replacing. It worked fine on with the 14b @ 20psi to 7000 rpm, but once I upgraded to the 50 trim I ran into some misfiring issues. Added a MSD Dis-4 and gapped the plugs a little smaller, and now it pulls perfectly smooth up to 8000 rpm @ 25 psi. This is on 92 octane and NGK BPR7ES plugs.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

I've had my setup for about 3 years. I originally upgraded because my stock coils and power transistor needed replacing. It worked fine on with the 14b @ 20psi to 7000 rpm, but once I upgraded to the 50 trim I ran into some misfiring issues. Added a MSD Dis-4 and gapped the plugs a little smaller, and now it pulls perfectly smooth up to 8000 rpm @ 25 psi. This is on 92 octane and NGK BPR7ES plugs.

Cool. So you havent had to replace the COP yet with new plugs? That is my main concern is that they will not last much longer than stock wires and then I have wasted all that money for looks.

I have been using a cop setup for about 6 months now and I have put nearly 3000 miles on it. So far, I have no regrets on going with a cop setup. I made a tech article on wiring a cop setup and I had planned on updating it with how it has performed, but I just keep forgetting to. Anyways, I am using the stock power transistor. I am only running about 17psi on my setup right now because I need to replace valve seals, but it performs very well. When I first installed it, I was pushing 22-23psi and I could run to 7500 rpms without even the slightest stutter. I also have the plugs at the standard gap of .028". As soon as I replace the valve seals I will be turning the boost up to 27-28 psi and I will definitely update the article. I just want to see how it holds up to higher boost before adding an ignition amp.

Here is a link to my article if you want to know what parts I used for my setup.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/290665-coil-plug-wiring-install-pics-part-1-a.html

Hope that helps,
Justin

PLEASE do. I read your article many times and is the reason for me to do the COP setup.

James

 

[jshuman]

jI should be getting valve seals in next week so I will know soon... I hope.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

I should be getting vavle in next week so I will know soon... I hope.

Why must you rewire it??

James

 

[jshuman]

I dont know if I understand your question. I meant to say valve seals in the above post.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

My bad. I thought you said you have to rewire it from the first post. Nevermind. Your good.

James

 

[jshuman]

Ha ok. I was confused. I was also going to mention, if you go cop and a coil fails, you won't have to un/resolder anything. Two bolts and one connector is all it takes to swap a coil. The only time I have found it to be a pain is when changing spark plugs.

 

[H82lose91]

Funny this thread popped up. I just bought a used Switzer setup with JMF plate. Once it arrived it was wired up for a AEM CDI box and seemed to be wired in parallel. I was planning to order up an Arc-2 but JNZ was out of stock. So while waiting i decided to rewire them per Jshuman's thread. Everywhere i read the car would run like crap with a CDI and it would be noticable. So i wired them up ad plugged them in, i didnt expect the car to run or if it did to run right. I was wrong.

Idled perfect, so i took it out on low boost 18psi .028 plug gap no misfire car pulled clean. Hmmm? Ok now lets try the meth same thing. No misfires no breaking up AFR's are the same. So until i see an issue ill be keeping the $350 for the CDI stuffed in a shoe box! Thanks for that write up!

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Ha ok. I was confused. I was also going to mention, if you go cop and a coil fails, you won't have to un/resolder anything. Two bolts and one connector is all it takes to swap a coil. The only time I have found it to be a pain is when changing spark plugs.

I am going to follow your instructions, but you didnt mention anything about how much did you have to cut off the bottom?

James

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Funny this thread popped up. I just bought a used Switzer setup with JMF plate. Once it arrived it was wired up for a AEM CDI box and seemed to be wired in parallel. I was planning to order up an Arc-2 but JNZ was out of stock. So while waiting i decided to rewire them per Jshuman's thread. Everywhere i read the car would run like crap with a CDI and it would be noticable. So i wired them up ad plugged them in, i didnt expect the car to run or if it did to run right. I was wrong.

Idled perfect, so i took it out on low boost 18psi .028 plug gap no misfire car pulled clean. Hmmm? Ok now lets try the meth same thing. No misfires no breaking up AFR's are the same. So until i see an issue ill be keeping the $350 for the CDI stuffed in a shoe box! Thanks for that write up!

I read some where, that (as per polormount) wiring in parallel is what would be better for the car since you get the same voltage across the coils. I dont understand why switching it would be any better?

James

 

[jshuman]

I am going to follow your instructions, but you didnt mention anything about how much did you have to cut off the bottom?

James

IIRC, I think I had to cut 32.5mm from the bottom of each coil boot. I did not post that because I knew not everone would use the jmf plate which recesses the coils. I knew someone would use a flat plate, cut too much off the boots, and then blame it on me .

 

[jshuman]

I read some where, that (as per polormount) wiring in parallel is what would be better for the car since you get the same voltage across the coils. I dont understand why switching it would be any better?

James

I believe this is the post you are talking about: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/299790-why-cop-if-stock-better.html#post151540946

I dont understand most of that to be honest but I trust his information. I just plan on seeing how far I can go with the setup as it is.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

IIRC, I think I had to cut 32.5mm from the bottom of each coil boot. I did not post that because I knew not everone would use the jmf plate which recesses the coils. I knew someone would use a flat plate, cut too much off the boots, and then blame it on me .

I plan on following your instructions to a T. I love the way the JMF plate looks. Where did you get those nuts and bolts. I want to get SS bolts if possible, since everything on the car will be SS bolts.

I believe this is the post you are talking about: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/299790-why-cop-if-stock-better.html#post151540946

I dont understand most of that to be honest but I trust his information. I just plan on seeing how far I can go with the setup as it is.

Yep. Thats the one. Very good info in there.

James

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Don't cut off the bottom of the boot. Cut it off the top. If you cut off the bottom it will be hard to get the boot onto the spark plug. If you look at the bottom of the boot it flares out to accept the plug's ceramic piece. If you cut this you will only get the boot to fit onto the electrical connection. Then you could have problems with arcing inside the spark plug wells. I chopped mine off like this:

 

[jshuman]

I plan on following your instructions to a T. I love the way the JMF plate looks. Where did you get those nuts and bolts. I want to get SS bolts if possible, since everything on the car will be SS bolts.
:

The bolts that hold the plate to the vc came with the jmfab plate. The allen head hardware that bolts the coils to the plate come from lowes.

 

[jshuman]

Don't cut off the bottom of the boot. Cut it off the top. If you cut off the bottom it will be hard to get the boot onto the spark plug. If you look at the bottom of the boot it flares out to accept the plug's ceramic piece. If you cut this you will only get the boot to fit onto the electrical connection. Then you could have problems with arcing inside the spark plug wells. I chopped mine off like this:

Yes, I forgot to mention that. However, I did trim mine from the bottom. I just used a razor blade to open the hole a bit and taper the ends when I was done. So either way should work I guess.