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How fast can a Slave Cylinder go bad

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JMiller

15+ Year Contributor
684
1
Jun 30, 2007
Irmo, South Carolina
Ok once again i have a clutch issue, I replaced the Master and Slave in October. But it only fixed my soft pedal problem for 2 days, then it started dropping to the floor and getting soft again. So i got a new clutch installed and my flywheel resurfaced. Well after i got it back it was doing the same thing. I could actually make it go to the floor by gently tapping the pedal 2 or 3 times. So I got a new Master cylinder again and that got rid of the pedal sticking to the floor and me being able to make it go the floor, but now it feels like its not fully engaging when i push the pedal down and its still very soft most of the time. I bleed the mess out of it and still the same. So could my slave cylinder already be bad. I know the guy that put my clutch in left it out in the rain with the hood up, would that have messed up the SC cause the bleed valve was super rusted (had to get a new one). Sorry for making this so long, just wanted to give all info that might help.
 
I killed a new slave cylinder after I installed the CT2100 and Jun flywheel. I did the install and what having no problems with it until I let this girl drive my car. She killed the slave within 5 minutes. I know, not really her fault but that was also the last chick to drive my car.
I did really improve things by putting in a SS clutch line that goes all the way from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder and installing a speed bleeder valve. This really made the pedal feel sharper, crisper and much more consistent. The Speedbleeder valve turns it into a 1 man job and are pretty damn cheap and seem to work really well. The SS clutch line is available thru a few sources. I got mine thru Slowboy and spent I thin about $90. The speedbleeders valve I got thru Machv and I think I spent $15. You actually buy two so I have a spare sitting around somewhere. I also installed all Speedbleeder valves for my brake system and love them! They have a nice anti corrosion coating on them and are easy to turn/loosen even after having been on my car for 6 years in WI.
I have also found that by eliminating the buffer cylinder with the full length SS clutch line and putting on the Speedbleeder valve that it makes the clutch really easy to bleed with no bench master cylinder bleeding. I use very little brake fluid to fill and then bleed the clutch line.
I had been very very frustrated with the clutch on the Talon for the first couple of years after I purchased it. I kept wanting it to preform like the clutch on my friend's BMW. It seemed like my clutch pedal always felt too mushy and wasn't engaging at the height I wanted it to from the floor. I had been doing a lot of street racing and kept experiencing a slipping clutch even after I installed the new clutch, TOB and flywheel. I spent too much time on my back diggin around under the dash adjusting the clutch master system actuation piston linkage. A few embarrassing nights I wound up having to do this in a parking lot on Hwy 100 while all my buddies kept racing.
All in all I replaced the clutch with a ACT 2100, the flywheel with a Jun cromoly one, a new metal TOB, the clutch line for a ss one, the clutch master cylinder with a new/ reman factory OEM one, the bleeder valve with a Speedbleeder one, the slave cylinder with a new/reman factory OEM one. Now my clutch feels great! I haven't driven my friend's BMW in a long time but I'd have to put it in the same ballpark. I also switched over to DOT5 brake fluid for the clutch line.
 
No way im going to read all that.... If you don't replace all the fluid that are in the lines with new when you change to new parts that can damage them prematurely. When things go bad, they leave debri in the lines and that little bit can damage seals on your cylinders. I would change to a complete ss line and bleed it good. I recommend TRE's site for the bleeding... I also recommend his site for anything pertaining to the hydro system.
 
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