1G How do you think my build is going?

[J-VilleDivision]

Ok my first post on this board, I am on gateway dsm and stlsr and now here. I was looking over the site forums and i am glad i found this place it has everything.

So i have had 3 DSM's and all of them have been budget jobs that have failed, with the fastest being a 13.8 at 98. so i decided that i was sick of wasting my money and i was going to spend some real money on a real car.

So i need some opinions on my new project so far if you dont mind.

1994 Eclipse GSX

pulled the engine first thing and started work.

First i pulled all of the ABS and replaced it with non ABS.

Next i bought a new gasket kit, all my engine's bearings, timing belt, water pump and a new timing belt tensioner from NAPA.

bought some stuff from slowboy racing including,

Eagle H beam rods
.030 over Ross Pistons
balance shaft removal kit

Also bought a Master Power T4, (70 A/R Compressor 68 A/R exhaust side with p trim wheel) Might spool up late but i think it will be ok.

Sent the block to a local machine shop and had the block bored .030 over, head surface milled, and all my balance shaft bearing's pressed in upside down.

I pulled the head apart and started porting it myself (so i felt one with the engine) looking in to some different cams, springs retainers and valves. (still have some shoping to do)

Planing on running high 20lbs on this motor, just wondering what suggestions you guys might have on injector sizing, ignition components, BOV, Wastegate sizing and anyother things i might need to make this a strong running car?

Sorry for the legnth but just hoping for some nice DSM people that are willing to share some knowledge.

Thanks, Justin

PS. looking in to DSM LINK but it is kind of intimidating (But i have alot of money to spend before i get to that point)

 

[DSM97GST]

So far sounds good. well if you have a eprom ecu http://dsmlink.com/faq-eprom.html you can run dsmlink which is the best way to go other then a stand alone system. As far as injectors go i would get some 950s, aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and a walbro 255lph fuel pump which will take care of your fuel with room to grow. you can get a 38mm wastegate and put it either on your o2 housing or your exhaust manifold better being the
o2 housing. just my opinion but i would say its a no no to port the head without using a flow bench. i usually leave that up to a reputable company either leave the head stock or buy a ported head because the secret is where to take out the metal not just smoothing it out. For cams go with some 272s and some good springs and retainers like crower. hope that helps

 

[2gGSX]

I agree with his porting advice, and the 1g head for the most part will flow enough for quite a bit of power.

DSMLink is not really that intimidating at all. Very easy to use and gives you access to their forums which has a lot of good information as well as helpful people. If you do this, I'd also suggest the 950 or 1000CC FIC injectors.

The stock ignition should be enough, but if you start seeing that you need to upgrade look into a COP setup.

 

[J-VilleDivision]

thanks for the advise, i love that i found a place i can post and not be called a retard for having questions,

I already have the 255lph fuel pump, it is an inline because i also have a fuel cell i plan on puting in the car. Aeromotive FPR i have heard a lot of good things so i believe i will be going with one of those instead of any other brand.

I really had no idea on injector size so thanks for the help,

I was guessing 38mm on the wastegate but just wanted some verifacation.

Keep it coming please

Thanks!!!

 

[perley03]

thanks for the advise, i love that i found a place i can post and not be called a retard for having questions,

I already have the 255lph fuel pump, it is an inline because i also have a fuel cell i plan on puting in the car. Aeromotive FPR i have heard a lot of good things so i believe i will be going with one of those instead of any other brand.

I really had no idea on injector size so thanks for the help,

I was guessing 38mm on the wastegate but just wanted some verifacation.

Keep it coming please

Thanks!!!

If you need help with injector sizing let me know. I need to know what cams you will be running because of the change in VE and also a link to the compressor map of your turbo. I need to know how many lbs/hr this turbo is flowing, and also what maximum psi you plan on running (remember that you might not be able to run your highest boost, it depends on how much fuel and timing you will be running to avoid detonation.)

 

[J-VilleDivision]

If you need help with injector sizing let me know. I need to know what cams you will be running because of the change in VE and also a link to the compressor map of your turbo. I need to know how many lbs/hr this turbo is flowing, and also what maximum psi you plan on running (remember that you might not be able to run your highest boost, it depends on how much fuel and timing you will be running to avoid detonation.)

Thanks when I buy a couple more things i will let you konw.

 

[J-VilleDivision]

So I bought more stuff,

Manley 4g63 Springs, Retainers and valve lock kit,
Stainless Industries, Stainless Steel Valves (Standard Size),
SBI Bronze Valve Guides,
4G63 Revised lifters,
ARP main studs,
ARP Head studs,
SCE 4G63 Copper Head Gasket,
Rev Hard T4 cast exhaust manifold W/38mm wastgate flange,
Also ditched the stock timing belt and bought a Greddy Extreme Kevlar Timing Belt,
New timing pully kit,
Mitsubishi OEM Front Cover


I also did take the advise from the board and bring my head to the machine shop to be ported.

Also they milled the head surface, hot tanked it and set my spring hights.

Then I brought them my crankshaft, flywheel, pistons, rods, bearings and rings so they could do a full balance on everything.

So I have the bottom end together and waiting.

I need to buy Cams and Cam gears, thinking BC 280/280 with Fidanza 4G63 Cam Gears?????

Just updating this thread, let me know what you think!!!

Thanks,

 

[whitehawk]

The BC 280's are ok but there for high rpm engine with there powerband. I run the HKS 272 an are great I think to 8k rpms. I never went higher than that due to not having a good set of springs. What I noticed is that HKS an BC are almost the same. From what everyone said that ran them both. Crower Cams & Equipment - Mitsubishi - Camshafts HKS USA Camshafts Check em out an cam gears I went AEM abit more than those but you don't want them messing up. AEM has no complaints that they broke. I cant say that for any other brand.

 

[KDub]

May I ask why you went with the copper head gasket?

280s is a great choice for a built head with the 2.0. you should be able to rev to 9k without a problem. What clutch are you going with. And are you using the 7 bolt block?

 

[J-VilleDivision]

Sorry, maybe should have said this earlier. I took the engine out of the car and it had already been swaped to a 6 bolt.

For the clutch im not sure right now, havent got that far with the build, still have alot of stuff to buy.

And with the copper head gasket, just always thought that copper head gaskets were superior sealing gaskets?

 

[blownturbotsi]

MLS works fine as far as head gaskets go. I haven't used a copper one yet.

 

[interex]

If you intend to run 272, or 280 cams you'll need to use different springs... not the stock replacement ones.

 

[blownturbotsi]

If you intend to run 272, or 280 cams you'll need to use different springs... not the stock replacement ones.

He already posted that he got Manley springs and what not. READ.

Also, stock springs are fine with 272's.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Sorry, maybe should have said this earlier. I took the engine out of the car and it had already been swaped to a 6 bolt.

For the clutch im not sure right now, havent got that far with the build, still have alot of stuff to buy.

And with the copper head gasket, just always thought that copper head gaskets were superior sealing gaskets?

IMAO they Are...Just make sure if you do get one you get the SCE Titan ICS(self Sealing) Other wise you will have to O-ring the block and head... Unless you plan on going that route...

 

[KDub]

Sorry, maybe should have said this earlier. I took the engine out of the car and it had already been swaped to a 6 bolt.

For the clutch im not sure right now, havent got that far with the build, still have alot of stuff to buy.

And with the copper head gasket, just always thought that copper head gaskets were superior sealing gaskets?

I'm not too familiar with copper head gaskets thats why i asked. Just thought everyone went with the 4 layer. I recommend the act 2600 for the clutch, that thing can take a beating.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Most people do just go with a MLS....But like I said IMOA they are better...
Here is a link to a SCE ICS copper vs. MLS page if you wanna find out more about them

SCE Gaskets Inc.

 

[J-VilleDivision]

That's the exact gasket i purchased. Guess i did something right,

Just wondering, do i have wishfull thinking using this size of turbo, getting alot of Criticism from other boards saying my setup is a joke??

I just explain it might not be to streetable and need some N20 to get it moving but hey..

thanks,

 

[kahl23]

Eh, you're kinda jumping in with both feet so to speak here going with a full T4 setup as your first project. Also, the questions you are asking are fairly basic and easily answered. Since you've gotten going already though and it's a bit late to stop, I do have a few suggestions. Definitely go with DSMLink if you plan on doing any tuning yourself, much easier to use than a full EMS for the inexperienced and gives you a great amount of functionality. Also, for the clutch look into the Power Train Technologies and the Quartermaster twin disc clutches, they are fairly pricey (1200 or thereabouts IIRC) but if you want to be able to harness that power you need to pay to play. Also, I hope you aren't trying to do this all on the stock transmission, what are you planning on running?

 

[J-VilleDivision]

TRE - Shepard, you know the typical suspects.

But still not evern thinking that far. Just kind of going one step at a time.

I just want to get the motor finished and in, mock up exhaust and intercooler piping along with FMIC (but im not even that far in picking one of these out) once that is done move to Fuel and Ignition. Trans would be next along with all other drive train aspects (suspension, axels, transfer case, drive shaft, rear end) Then move to the tuning with DSM LINK.

The order in wich i do all of this is subject to change but like i said in the first post... DONE WITH BUDGET BUILDS!!!!!

Thanks again for all the advise,

 

[J-VilleDivision]

Just adding some pics to the thread.

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Just kind of stacked it on eachother.

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[dlb21]

Looking very nice!!!
What about porting that exhaust manifold???

 

[ezz-e]

I suggest you use L19 head bolts if your going to be using the copper head gasket the stander ARP can only be torque to a specific rating before they stretch, the L19 can hold higher torquing and boost .As for that turbo i hope your looking to push it up to 30psi, at least the 280s will help spool significantly, it should net you a good hp curve.

 

[blownturbotsi]

I recently saw a copper gasket that was blown on all 4 cylinders from 15mins of run time. This was also with A1 studs.

 

[ezz-e]

yea i have only heard bad things about the copper, even the fel-pro felt gasket seals better with L19s

 

[J-VilleDivision]

I recently saw a copper gasket that was blown on all 4 cylinders from 15mins of run time. This was also with A1 studs.

I would imagine they did not have their block o-ringed.

You do not have to have the block o-ringed if you buy a copper head gasket with o-rings built in.