High Idle issue

[Boostinsideways]

So the car was idling fine minus the obvious surge before I replaced my ISC. Now I am getting a 2500 rpm+ idle when I crank it. I have not let it run to warm up and see if the idle drops because this is alarmingly high.

I have a newish 4 wire tps. Few weeks old.
New ISC
Blocked FIAV
Looped Coolant line
No Boost/Vacuum Leaks.
Deleted EGR - STM EGR Block
New OEM TB Gaskets.


I am lost atm. I checked biss screw and its intact. a

 

[dsm03]

My old '95, had similar problem, blt, biss screw, isc, ...

neither of them, turned out to be my TB. Try, pushing on the TB in different places, it took forever hrs and weeks of diagnostics til I came to find that the throttle body was the issue. It was loose and I replaced it problem went away.

I don't guarantee this is the problem but it is a damn good start.

 

[Boostinsideways]

I will look into it. I was running this throttle body for several weeks before the engine pull, and for about 7 weeks since then.

This one honestly has me stumped. I am gonna spend a few hours on it tomorrow after drill.

I figure when I get home I can pull the tb off again, make sure the throttle plate is closing all the way. Trace some new gaskets on the roll of karopak I have and hope that fixes it. I would like to drive it to work tuesday and get an alignment.

 

[spritian]

Mine stays at 1800-2200 when cold and sets to 1k after it's warmed. Started doing this after I put my 1g tb on my 2g... But after warmed everything is ok on dsmlink (iscposition, etc). My idle is at 1000 with 90 fc offset. Gonna try to play with tb when cold and see if it fluctuates.

 

[Boostinsideways]

Well I figured it out. My wiretuck was to blame. I looped the throttle cable under the intake manifold, but didn't bother to adjust it after doing so. I feel like such an IDIOT. Its fixed now. My idle is down to 950 rpms (cold). A bit higher than it used to be. Hmmmm Maybe the FIAV isn't completely blocked. I guess I will be cutting out a sheetmetal block plate for it. I have it currently blocked the RRE method, taping out the freeze plug and screw it down. But I Ended up breaking out the little nibs in the wheel, so I assumed it was all the way tight.

Maybe not.

I am also seeing 16 vac at idle. Which is 4 higher than it used to be.

Anyone have any suggestions what gauge metal would be the minimum thickness for a block plate? I will be using stainless. I Have a few sheets of stainless laying around but non of them are very thick.