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my1st2genGSX

Proven Member
141
10
Aug 4, 2016
San Antonio, Texas
So, I will try to get as much detail as possible.

So, I was driving from my parents house and then on the way to my house, my car died. I did hear a metal on metal noise for a quick second, then all helI broke loose.

I have checked for the basics...air, fuel, but no spark. I get fuel to the filter so I'm assuming it's getting to the injectors, but that doesn't answer why I have no spark. I have already replace the ICM, due to when I tested it, it didn't pass the test with reading 0 ohms. I will be replacing the cam/crank sensor, instead of testing them, since I have to pull the crank pully and timing cover. If that doesn't fix it, the only other thing I could think of would be then replacement of the ECM. Is there anything I've missed?
 
Are you sure the timing belt didn't let go? Does the car have compression? Gotta start from the beginning and move forward, a metal and metal noise for a quick second could be a lot of things, not many of them particularly good.
 
I have checked timing, and it's good. Compression has been low since I bought the vehicle..but not done all cylinders yet.

I should say I totaled my daily and then with work it's difficult to get time to look at it.
 
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If cam and crank sensors are good then you should get spark, This actually makes me think you need to look at crank sensor and check end play. If CW develops it takes out the crank sensor and you wont have spark. If you can move the crank (pry on the pulley) pushing it outward from behind it with a long screwdriver that is real bad.

How is your oil, changing it often? smell it, if your dipstick smells like fuel that's a sign your oil isn't doing bearings any favors.
 
I routinely change the oil every 4-4500 miles with Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30 oil, and signs of fuel smell. I still have the balance shaft, and will be working on rebuilding this motor and eliminating it when I do the rebuild. I will be checking the sensors tomorrow. If it a bigger issue like 19gsx91 said I will be doing everything differently...meanin an early rebuild.

Thanks for the input.
 
I have read some on the changes in Zinc content for oil and most all oils now use less Zinc which isn't so Ideal for our cars. Valvoline HighZinc VR1 20w50 is what I run some people are of the opinion they like the thinner oil and recommend VR1 10w30 it is considered a race oil and offers better protection for our cars. Its generally accepted that mobil1 used to be the oil of choice but after they redesigned the formula DSMers have gone away from it. After I did a ton of research on the matter I will only be using VR1 and mitsubishi made oil filters.

https://www.summitracing.com sells it for best price I have found.

I just order cases of mitsubishi filters (8 per case?) from dsmgraveyard and then oil as needed.
 
So, I appreciate everyone's input on what to check. Crank position sensor was the culprit. Will be saving up to get a rotation assembly from JAM and a decent build on the head from a place in here in San Antonio. Again Thanks for the help. And I will be changing out the oil and try VR1 10w30. Thanks again.
 
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