Help with stock cluth issue

[95gts-eclipse]

after i bought the car i noticed that the clutch wanted to stay down so i did some research and everyone sugested getting master and slave cylinder replaced had that done then few weeks later the same problem happened...To further explain the problem say driving norm speeds when i shift into 2nd i notice more often the clutch pedal will pull itself completly to the floor but yet not engage it i have never heard of this happening in a car im not sure if i should spend the money and have everything done if no one can tell me why it does this any help would be greatly apreciated please

Thank you

 

[yesItsdsm]

I believe thats one of the problems associated with crankwalk. You should check vfaq.com for more information on that.

First things first though, Make sure your clutch system is working properly. Check your lines as you could have a leak thats causing you to lose pressure when you depress the clutch pedal.

 

[mitch26753]

if he has crankwalk that bad then he has BIG problems. if you replaced the slave cylinder and master, then most likely you have air in your line causing this. bleed your system.

 

[95gts-eclipse]

is flushing my clutch hard to do never done it?

 

[Splitpi]

It really should be done with two people for best results.

1) to pump up the clutch.
2) to open the bleeder.

Also due to the asinine loops and reservoir in the clutch line its a freak'n pain to bleed the clutch if you get alot of air in the line. I would recommend upgrade to SS clutch line.

 

[95gts-eclipse]

i know nothin about clutch's always was a muscle car slap shifter type no clutch i dont know were bleeder is or how to change line kinda pathetic

 

[blcktsiawd1987]

search the forums

 

[c4uldr0n]

The bleeder is on your slave cylinder.

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Look at the above link, scroll down a bit and it has some information for you on how to diagnose your "ghost pedal".

-c4

 

[95gts-eclipse]

If this problem does happen to be CW would i be better off trying to get engine swap, rebuild, or buy a new car? personal opinion

 

[95gts-eclipse]

That deffinatly explained it but the master and slave cylendar were just replaced and it started a week later

 

[Splitpi]

They probably didn't bleed all the air out of the lines. It took the shop 3 tries to bleed my clutch correctly so I could drive it home and bleed it properly after I burst the rubber hose section that attachs the clutch master to the transmission.

Also after any change to the master or slave cylinders, you may need to adjust the clutch pedal itself. The 2G master cylinder has this lovely thing called "pump up" where it doesn't release the pressure if its not adjusted properly... thus as the pressure builds with each clutch push, the the clutch has less and less force. This happens because the clutch pedal is not set correctly and does not allow the master cylinder to function as designed. Try adjusting your pedal aswell.

 

[c4uldr0n]

If this problem does happen to be CW would i be better off trying to get engine swap, rebuild, or buy a new car? personal opinion

6-bolt swap in my personal opinion. CW is definately used too often and is an easy way out answer though. I wouldn't speculate too much until you know what the problem is for sure.

 

[95gts-eclipse]

I was reading on another forum about adjusting the pedal and bleeding the clutch but i dont wanna mess anything up i dont get it fully

 

[dsm03]

try replacing the bushing on the clutch pedal mine did that.....not no more though : )

 

[Splitpi]

I was reading on another forum about adjusting the pedal and bleeding the clutch but i dont wanna mess anything up i dont get it fully

I think you are making the pedal adjustment far more difficult in your head than reality.


RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster rod and you'll be able to rotate the rod by hand. If getting the right free play off the floor makes it so that you loose the free play at the top of the pedal travel, you will need to adjust the upper travel stop. The upper travel stop is the cruise control switch.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

It takes all of 10 minutes to dial it in.

 

[turbo_punk]

Mine does that to and also it makes a clicking sound when i get all the way to the floor? Is this bushing inside the car? What to you use to replace it a bearing or did you have to special order it or something?

 

[spyderturbo007]

I was reading on another forum about adjusting the pedal and bleeding the clutch but i dont wanna mess anything up i dont get it fully

Let me see if I can help out with this one. Bleeding the clutch is a piece of cake, so you'll be fine. The worst thing you can do is get air in the lines and then you're going to have the same problem you do now, so no harm done.

You'll need two people, a container of brake fluid, a small plastic hose to fit the bleeder and a wrench. The bleeder is mounted at the front of the car on the side of the slave cylinder and will have a rubber cap over the end. Remove the cap, slide the box end of the wrench over the bleeder and attach the hose.

Then, crawl under the car and have your friend sit in the driver's seat. Tell him that you are going to need him to push the pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there, until you tell him to pull it up. Next, put the end of the hose in a cup or something to catch the fluid, open the bleeder and tell your friend to push the clutch in and hold it on the floor. Wait for the fluid to almost stop coming out the bleeder and close the bleeder. Then tell your friend to pull the clutch pedal up off the floor.....It's important that the bleeder is still closed. Then do the same thing, open bleeder, push pedal to the floor, close bleeder and pull up the clutch pedal.

Do that about 3 times and then check the fluid level. You don't want to run out or you'll start sucking air into the lines and have to start all over again. I normally run a good bit of fluid though the system while bleeding things to flush out all the crap in the lines. So you might have to repeat this process multiple times before you get all the air / dirt out. Just make sure you check the fluid level every 2 or 3 bleeds.

Next you'll want to bleed the slave. This is easy and you can do it by yourself. Crack open the bleed and push in the piston on the slave and hold it. Wait until the fluid almost stops and close the bleeder. Once it's closed you can release the piston. Repeat this process a couple times and check the fluid level. Open bleeder, push piston, close bleeder, release piston and repeat. You only have to do this a couple times, since you are only bleeding the slave, not the entire system.

Hope that helps because my fingers hurt.

 

[Splitpi]

Also use different colored brake fluid (fill clutch fluid with brake fluid... fyi incase you didn't know) to distinguish when the fluid is flushed (if that is a concern for you).

I.e. stock (brownish/redish) then use Blue tinted brake fluid (ATE Super Blue).

Then switch back to stock or a "Red" version when you want to flush again... then back again ... this way its easy to visually tell when the lines have been flushed.

Also, keep bleeding the clutch till no more air comes out of the slave cylinder. Drive around ensure it feels good and bleed agian if need be. There are alot of loops and a resevoir in the lines and they can trap air bubbles making it difficult sometimes to bleed in attempt (A vacume setup fixes this though.. but for us normal people it just takes time.)