The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

help, new clutch slipping

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

97gsx_zeclipse

15+ Year Contributor
220
0
May 4, 2007
San Diego, California
Hi, I got a 97 2g gsx and Just got a new clutch, resurfaced flywheel and installed new master cylinder and new slave cylinder and bled the system like 7 times. Took it for a test drive and after 5 minutes the clutch starts to slip easily. I try adjusting the clutch rod as best as possible but stil slips. I didn't drive it hard at all. When in any gear I can hear a grinding/ sanding noise coming from the transmission. Could it be the the clutch is not disengaging fully? After driving it for 20 minutes, engine smells like burnt clutch. After 20 minutes of driving, when coming to a stop light, its impossible to get into gear if im lucky and the clutch slips right in first gear, it sucks going steady 20 mph while the rpms are at 5500. the car just doesnt go.

I looked up slipping clutch in the reapir manual and found out that it could be the clutch plate is not seated and that it can take up to 30-40 normal starts for a new one to seat? i don't understand that. Come someone exlpain that to me?

Now I researched over and over to find out about "pump up" and that the clutch pedal needs adjusting but I don't fully understand what the "pump up" thing means. I read about it and sort of understand and I think I have this problem aswell, for the same thing happens to me. Can some explain to me this please and give me some suggestions. I'm trying to fix this asap for I drive my baby in this car (safely) but not comfortable driving it while its like this. thanks so much.
 
Here you go...

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Scroll down and read up on clutch adjustments.

Once you've adjusted your clutch rod for proper free play off the floor, you would also need to make sure that your upper pedal stop adjuster is adjusted as well for top pedal travel. Meaning, you would need to have free play for both top and bottom.

If you don't properly adjust your upper stop adjuster and only adjusted the clutch rod, there's a chance that you would end up having the pedal pump up issue. This is also bad for your crankshaft trust bearings.

Check to make sure that you have some free play on top. The upper travel stop is the cruise control switch. To check upper free play, press the clutch down and make sure that there's no pressure on top for at least a full inch or a inch and a half. If there's no free play, adjust your cruise control switch until you have a sufficient amount of free play on top.

Good luck.
 
You may have already toasted your new clutch if you have been slipping it that much. If your clutch starts to slip either baby the hell out of it so it doesn't slip or dont even drive it back home if it still slips. Driving a car that the clutch is slipping badly will not only tear up the disc but it could also put heat spots on your pressure plate and flywheel.
 
I believe the relief valve you mean is the one inside the master which allows fluid to back up into the master when the pedal is up and adjusted correctly. It is open when the pedal is up, and blocked as soon as you start pushing on the pedal.

I'd bet money your clutch is adjusted too high, making the clutch never fully engage. First adjust the stop up so you get as much pedal travel as possible, then adjust the rod going from the master cylinder to the pedal; if you can't push the slave cylinder in by hand, your clutch is adjusted too high. Adjust it down until you can push the slave in, if your pedal is really low, then your slave cylinder or master cylinder is bad. You can get both together new on ebay for 40 or 50 bucks.
 
Ok heres an update. Went to drive it just now, warmed up the car and then i push in the clutch, clutch is now soft and not hard like it was last night and now wont go into any gear, grinds trying to put it in gear. Theres no engagement feel on the clutch pedal either. The master cylinder is full of fluid. Im getting frustrated over this. I need m y car for work. But anyway how do I adjust the top of the clutch? And which way do I adjust the rod? To where the clutch goes lower or higher? Thanks
 
Since your still having issues regarding adjustments, i would suggest asking a local tuner (maybe post another thread) in your area for help. I'm sure someone is willing to cruise over to your pad and give a helping hand.

Just make sure to offer something for their trouble. Perhaps, gas!:D
 
Ok did everything possible to fix this clutch problem. Now put in an oem master cylinder, adjusted the switch nut on top of the clutch pedal, bled the master cylinder, slave and the relieve valve by the slave cylinder, adjusted the rod on the clutch pedal and the car FINALLY fully engages and disengages. Then after driving the car for 10 minutes, the engagment point starts to rise and then the clutch doesn't engage anymore. After letting it sit for 15 minutes it drives fine again and does the same thing again. So to narrow it down, dow I have a "pump up" problem? Ive read on that many times, but I'm kind of confused on how to fix this problem, please someone explain to me. Thanks so much.
 
Step on the clutch pedal all the way down and slowly release the clutch pedal (of course while in 1st gear and running) and see how much free play you have before the clutch starts to grab (post your answer). If it's grabs at least a 1/3 way up, then your fine. You don't want it grabbing off the floor. If the clutch grabs very close off the floor, you don't have enough free play below.

Now once you have that part set, your done (you might have to adjust it in small increments if necessary). Next you would need to adjust your upper stop in small increments as well to provide free play on top. If your still having pedal pump up, chances are your upper stop still requires minor adjustments. Don't just turn the rod/upper stop in full turns. Turn it a 1/4 at a time.

Just pm me if you need more help. Good luck bro.
 
Ok did everything possible to fix this clutch problem. Now put in an oem master cylinder, adjusted the switch nut on top of the clutch pedal, bled the master cylinder, slave and the relieve valve by the slave cylinder, adjusted the rod on the clutch pedal and the car FINALLY fully engages and disengages. Then after driving the car for 10 minutes, the engagment point starts to rise and then the clutch doesn't engage anymore. After letting it sit for 15 minutes it drives fine again and does the same thing again. So to narrow it down, dow I have a "pump up" problem? Ive read on that many times, but I'm kind of confused on how to fix this problem, please someone explain to me. Thanks so much.

Yes it is pumping up, meaning you have the clutch adjusted up too much. Read my post higher up, it says exactly how to adjust it correctly. Or go to jackstransmissions.com and watch the video of how to do it.
 
Problem solved, the porportion valve is stuck closed, replaced valve and can drive perfectly fine for more than 30 minutes. Thanks so much for your help guys.

One more question, the master cylinder has a relieve valve inside correct? Well on the new master cylinder I couldn't figure out how to take the master cylinder apart BUT I did see a screw that it directly under neath the MC, is that it? Thanks
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top