Help Changing LCA's,Tie Rods and Sway Bar Links

[NeWyoRksPLaYaZ]

Sup guys, I just ordered my lower straight control arms, outer tie rods and stabilizer bar end links. The end links are pretty straight forward so for the other two I was wondering what tools will I be needing to cover everything so I don't have my car in the air and then have to walk to get a tool . Also if anyone has any tips on making the install go faster and easier I would greatly appreciate that. Also would anyone happen to have what sizes the bolts are. Thanks in advance.

 

[Chill Kill Kult]

there is a walk through with pictures somewhere, I wanted to comment on it but haven't posted enough to become "Proven". for the outer tie-rod ends you loosen the jam nut, remove the nut on the stud and "tap" it with a hammer. sometimes it's easy sometimes it's not, generally it will go easier if you tap what it goes through i.e. the part on the knuckle that the tie rod end goes through to loosen the joint. count the # of threads that the inner tie-rod goes into the outer tie-rod and put the new one on with the same number of threads, it might not be exact, but it will drive straight enough to get to the alignment shop.

same deal on the ball joint(s). *if you have to tap on the axle to get it through the bearing assembly put the large nut on until it's flush with the end of the axle (will protect the threads from becoming damaged or mushroomed, usually some WD-40 and a soft mallet will be enough.*you might not have to do remove the axle at all, but some do it for safety sake as you risk pulling the axle apart at the joint*

you don't really have to remove the knuckle from the strut (1G) but some do it anyway.

on anything Japanese you can take damn near the whole car apart with a 10,12,14,17,19,21 mm sockets/wrenches but some parts may have been changed and the aftermarket nuts be different sizes. The axle nut will be something like 30,32mm or 1 1/4".

 

[bmoha7321]

Half inch breaker bar. Some of those bolts won't be easy to break lose if it's your first time breaking them loose.

 

[Chill Kill Kult]

forgot to mention torque wrench for the axle nut, probably around 100ft/lbs. I have a book at work that has specs, will confirm tomorrow. will also need side cutters (it's more fun to call them dikes) to remove/install cotter pins.

I have done tie rod ends/ball joints using an almost weightless ball-peen hammer, and sometimes have had to use a 5lb. sledge, the sledge is usually reserved for trucks though.

 

[NeWyoRksPLaYaZ]

Nice thank you. Ill try searching around for the thread with pics!

 

[Chill Kill Kult]

Totally forgot to check the spec again, been busy at work. I'm 90% sure it's 107 ft/lbs. should be able to google if you need to. sometimes forks work really well, sometimes you're better off without. it will usually destroy the boot if you use it, so something to consider, like if you were changing an inner tie rod and needed to save the outer.

 

[slayer450]

I just did my ball joints and I didn't have to remove the axle. Granted it did pop out of the Trans with the pounding but popped right back in. I used a fork from behind

 

[josh1095]

ball joint fork and if it spins, a sawzall! ive cut through many a ball joint before. doesnt matter cause your putting a new one on anyway.

 

[Chill Kill Kult]

^ use a torch to melt the plastic insert in the nut, then they spin off fine. doesn't have to be oxy ace torch either.