help!!!Car runs super rich @>=30000 RPM maybe intake mani

[shadowdrag]

My car seems to not want to function correctly at 3k and above. When I am driving on the high way below 65 MHP, it drives fine and logger indicate .45-.6V at O2. Other than that, 65 MPH and above it goes to very rich, some times I see 1.0V @ O2 and my car just stumble does not want to go past 3k or >=65. This happens on low and high throttle.

Is it normal to hear the intake manifold breathe very low?
My mani is starting to sound like those honda civic loud breathing intake. My car still makes it normal boost 18psi, no creeps, no spikes.

thanks, anyone

 

[Pure92TSi]

First thing i would do is check for boost leaks and then let us know what u find.

 

[shadowdrag]

First thing i would do is check for boost leaks and then let us know what u find.

Ijust did a leak test to the intake mani and no leak. I did a leak to the inlet of my to4e tubo and I can hear bubbling inside the motor and leak to the valve cover side breather.

Ooh, the MAFT honey center comb came off and was crushed.

 

[Pure92TSi]

Wow, i have never heard of that before but i guess anything is possible. So did removing the crushed honeycomb fix your problem?

 

[shadowdrag]

Wow, i have never heard of that before but i guess anything is possible. So did removing the crushed honeycomb fix your problem?

not yet, I am going to glue that honey comb back into the MAFT. But I jusst found another leak coming from the oil dipstick.

are these normal? I only using the bike pump at 7psi.

 

[Pure92TSi]

Yeah i have heard of dipsticks popping out under boost but 7 psi seems awful low for it to happen so i really don't know what to tell you. Hopefully someone like oldman will reply to this and be able to tell what to do next. Sorry.

 

[shadowdrag]

found another leak, leaking at oil cap.

Is there any fix to these or do I have to go buy a new parts.


I am sure that honey comb was the problem of not letting me go above 3k rpm, but I'm waiting for the glue to dry before I take it out for a test.

I will keep you all posted.

 

[Pure92TSi]

Check your PCV valve it may be bad. They are only a couple bucks to replace so i would do that first. The dipstick pooping is out is caused by to much crankcase pressure so something is letting to much pressure to reach down there where it shudn't be. Just try to PCV valve for now and hopefully that will fix it.

 

[oldman]

Oil cap, dipstick, breather valve....etc. are all part of the crankcase so ultimately you're dealing with a internal crankcase leak. Turbo seal (normal under a static test as long as the seal isn't leaking oil during operation), pcv valve, valve seals and piston rings are the usual suspects. Move the tester back to the TB elbow and observe the following.

1. How much pressure and for how long was the system holding? In comparison to the turbo inlet?

2. Whether you still hear hissing coming from the oil cap/dipstick.

What led you to the leak test in the first place? Was the car smoking?

 

[ddavisaf]

What led you to the leak test in the first place? Was the car smoking?

I'm guessing because the first person to reply to his thread told him to

 

[ddavisaf]

During a third gear pull how many counts of knock are you getting?

What kind of spark plugs are you using and what are they gapped at?

When testing from the turbo for a boost leak test test the LICP. Oh, and get an air tank, not a bike pump. It's going to be impossible for you to push 20 psi through your system. 20 bucks at walmart for a 7 gallon air tank.
You want to hold 20 psi for a minimum of 30 seconds from your LICP.

 

[oldman]

I'm guessing because the first person to reply to his thread told him to

If there is ever a dsmtuners wiseass position open, you will be the first to be nominated.

 

[ddavisaf]

All work and no play makes Bruce a dull.... oldman...

 

[shadowdrag]

Oil cap, dipstick, breather valve....etc. are all part of the crankcase so ultimately you're dealing with a internal crankcase leak. Turbo seal (normal under a static test as long as the seal isn't leaking oil during operation), pcv valve, valve seals and piston rings are the usual suspects. Move the tester back to the TB elbow and observe the following.

1. How much pressure and for how long was the system holding? In comparison to the turbo inlet?

2. Whether you still hear hissing coming from the oil cap/dipstick.

What led you to the leak test in the first place? Was the car smoking?

I started leak down because of the issue I stated in the topic. At the TB, with the bike pump it hold @7psi but then leaks in less than 5 seconds.

Turbo is new, I dropped the pcv "3 ft from air" when I had it replaced, 3 months ago OEM.

I just pull off my TB and inside of the mani is very dirty, " black stuff sticks onto my figers bad".
How do I clean this? Can I wet a piece of cloth with TB cleaner and dip it into the mani.

Thanks

 

[shadowdrag]

During a third gear pull how many counts of knock are you getting?

What kind of spark plugs are you using and what are they gapped at?

When testing from the turbo for a boost leak test test the LICP. Oh, and get an air tank, not a bike pump. It's going to be impossible for you to push 20 psi through your system. 20 bucks at walmart for a 7 gallon air tank.
You want to hold 20 psi for a minimum of 30 seconds from your LICP.

I don't usually run my car til red line, I stop at 5500 the most, so logger said when 3k kicks in, O2V goes to 0.55 -.9. timing gets pull all over the place.

 

[ddavisaf]

Sounds like some wicked boost leaks my friend. Use soapy water to help pinpoint the leaks.

 

[oldman]

At the TB, with the bike pump it hold @7psi but then leaks in less than 5 seconds.

Not nearly good enough. Like the wise ass davis said, 20psi for 30 seconds.

Turbo is new, I dropped the pcv "3 ft from air" when I had it replaced, 3 months ago OEM.

It doesn't matter if it's new, follow my directions and answer all of my questions so I can help you get to the bottom of things. Did you hear leaking from the oil cap/dipstick when testing from the TB? Repeat the test from the TB elbow to answer theses questions. Then disconnect the pcv hose and repeat test, record difference in psi level plus holding time, as well as hissing at the oil cap. Make sure you also spray soapy water on every gasket and connection.

I just pull off my TB and inside of the mani is very dirty, " black stuff sticks onto my figers bad".
How do I clean this? Can I wet a piece of cloth with TB cleaner and dip it into the mani.

Don't worry about this, most people's IM looks like that, focus on the more important task at hand, finishing your leak test.

 

[shadowdrag]

Ok, I just finish putting things back to place. I went to test drive it and it is still doing the same thing.

My car always been having a bogging problem, so I step on the gas paddle, it choked and back fired, in which, it popped the MAFT honeycomb back out. WTF

Here is a log 3 gear pull

RPM.......O2V....Timing....TPS..... AIR FLOW
2968......0.87......11........99..........9.62
3441......0.87......15........100.......11.58
3761......0.91......10........100.......17.21
4199......0.89......10........100.......16.90
4468......093.......33........100.......21.21


@ idle 1015 RPM

O2V=1015
Timing = 14
Air flow =0.66
ST=8
LT=0

 

[shadowdrag]

By the way I am going out to buy that air tank. I hope K-mart has on because Wal-Mart is along way from where I live.

 

[shadowdrag]

Ok, went out and bought the 5 gallon air tank at K-Mart, WOW only $25 not bad. Did the boost leak at the turbo inlet and I am still leaking at the dipstick. I did the second test at the beginning of the UICP, found that my 3 month old Greddy RS is leaking horribly.

So Oldman, my boost did not hold at 20psi, not even at 10psi because it leak everywhere at the bov.

Put about half of the tank of air in and it will not go past 10psi mark, bubbles all over the bov. I knew I shouldn't bought that RS.

 

[oldman]

1. Did leaking at dipstick persisted at the uicp?

2. Was air leaking out of the BOV return outlet or from the flange gasket? Are you venting?

3. Move the tester to the TB elbow so you can bypass the BOV for now and focus on the TB to head areas first, remember to always check if oil cap leak is still present.

Don't forget to fill the tank back up with the bike pump.

 

[shadowdrag]

1. Did leaking at dipstick persisted at the uicp?
2. Was air leaking out of the BOV return outlet or from the flange gasket? Are you venting?
3. Move the tester to the TB elbow so you can bypass the BOV for now and focus on the

Don't forget to fill the tank back up with the bike pump.

1) no leaks were found at dipstick when testing from UICP

2) It is leaking out from part that is connected to air filter, all screws, and flange. I wrapped teflon tape on all the screws and stripped the holes, so I am retaping the BOV.
BOV is recirculating.
Why is that when I vent it it feels more powerful, but when I recirculate it, power is lost due to mass suction of TO4E.

3)TB to head areas first, remember to always check if oil cap leak is still present.
I replaced the oil cap and leak went away but I will retest tommorow.


I'll try my hardest to refill it overnight.

Thanks

I'll keep you all posted of how it runs.

 

[BOOSTn20psi]

How is the car now.

 

[oldman]

I replaced the oil cap and leak went away but I will retest tommorow.

You're missing the point, the problem isn't air out of the oil cap, the problem is air getting into the crankcase which results in air coming out of both the oil cap and dipstick. A new oil cap will not stop air leaking from the intake tract into your crankcase. In fact, the oil cap should be open during every pressure test so that

1. You can put your ear up to it and listen for hissing under the valve cover, there should be no hissing at all.

2. Allowing leaking pressure to escape rather than let it build up and leak out of other places.

 

[shadowdrag]

My car is running better after gluing honey combs back on. The 3k RPM is clear and is normal again, Short trim is back to 0.45V-0.60V 3k-55k but when boost kicks in, it goes to rich. But I found new leaks, testing at TB, TB gasket leaks and vacuum lines leak. I am going to replace these tomorrow. Pressure at the TB doesnot hold @ 15psi, I am going to use rtv on the TB.

So Oldman, how do I stop the hiss from both oil cap and dip stick? Is this a severe problem? I am not sure how the test works but when I am doing the leak test do I close the breather hose from valve cover?

I had a shop build me a To4e, maybe it's a bad turbo. Hopefully???

I'll due a compression test again, 3 months ago I had 180, 175,180,175.