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Head replacement

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gsxeclipse97

15+ Year Contributor
1,255
2
Nov 7, 2004
Cedar Park, Texas
So my timing belt broke on my 2g with a 7-bolt block and 1g head. So I am putting a 2g head back on with a couple of new parts: hks 264in/ex, evo 3 intake manifold, 3G lifters. Also on the head I was planning on doing the oil feed mod that allowed more oil to flow to the head. I had a few concerns, 1 being that both the itm and the cams will allow more air flow would the stock pump and injectors be able to handle the extra load? I will only be running 12psi until all kinks are worked out the car. I have an evo 9 fuel pump and intercooler that I have been waiting to install but if need be I will put the pump on along with head and other parts just for security. I will be running a 14b still, but I know that running that manifold and cams will greatly increase the air flow. From all my reading I have done it seems most people have an afc before cams are installed but I just wanted to make sure I won't run too lean due to boost creep. Also a bit concerned about the clutch and stock limitations.

Current relevant mods
14b
Down pipe
Exhaust
Side mount ic
Type s bov with hard piping
Potted 2g exhaust manifold

Going in :D
Evo 3 ITM
Hks 264 cams
 
From what I have heard, stock cars can run 18 psi, but most people feel safe with 16. Most of the time a cam upgrade can net you a good 10-15% more power and airflow. So if your making 210 stock fuel you will probaly make 250-265hp @ 12psi with upgrades. I would say you would be pushing it. I would upgrade the pump for peace of mind.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You definitely need a good fuel system. I would recommend having the following at the very least.

New Fuel Filter
Rewired Fuel Pump.
Good Functioning FPR.

And a good idea if you haven't allready rewired the fuel pump

190 LPH wally

-or - Do this if you plan to to farther in the future

255 LPH wally +
Adjustable FPR

Edit : Just read you have an evo fuel pump. I would look at getting an evo mas and some evo injectors.
 
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Yea that's what I figured would be the best course of action. 250-265 is a conseridable bump in power. I haven't Rewired the fuel pump yet becuase I have an galant alternator on my car it pushes 90 amps instead of 65. From other reasearch I had done it's was almost the equivalence to a rewired pump. I will upgrade injectors to 660's and if I can find an evo maf one of these days I'll look into it more. I plan on running an e316g at some point. So its work in progress.
So the clutch will be able to handle the jump?
 
From what I have heard, stock cars can run 18 psi, but most people feel safe with 16. Most of the time a cam upgrade can net you a good 10-15% more power and airflow. So if your making 210 stock fuel you will probaly make 250-265hp @ 12psi with upgrades. I would say you would be pushing it. I would upgrade the pump for peace of mind.

Certainly based off of theoretical calculation and not off of fact. ;) Cams and 12psi netting you 50+hp is a bit of a pipe dream.

Depending on the cams you go with, you should be positively okay without a way to manage your fuel, per say. You can drop in a setup like mine, which is a 264/272 combo and not worry about fuel. The thing with cams is that degreeing them is always a plus. If you are going to get cams you might as well go ahead and grab a set of adjustable cam gears. You don't NEED them, but they certainly help.

Now the proper thing to do here would be to go ahead and address your fuel system, do your leak down and compressions tests after the install, do a complete timing job, update your water pump, everything you can while you have it torn apart to this level. Make sure surfaces are level, that you torque everything to spec - because if you don't you'll be stripping it right back down.

However, do you NEED an AFR for cams? No. SHOULD you? Yes.

Now on the FP rewire I have to say that simply upgrading your alternator is Not the equivalent to a rewire. Rewiring your FP allows for 12v's to constantly run to the FP instead of the voltage being regulated to increase as the ECU sees fit. This allows for full fuel pressure set at the desired level you want it to be at all times. This means - There's fuel there when you need it as soon as you need it. I've personally seen a rewired fuel pump carry a car from a stuttering 16psi at WOT and 6K RPM to boosting smoothly at 18PSI through 7K RPM. It's a 30minute to 1 hour job using basic supplies - Do it.
 
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Good to know.. I'll Rewire the evo pump once it's installed. I won't likely be using cam-gears I'm using 264/264. 50hp would be nice maybe once I turn up the boost to 17 or 18.
 
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