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Head Gasket Help.. Remove/Replace

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Gary 420A RS

15+ Year Contributor
1,188
9
Jul 7, 2003
Oxnard, Ventura, California
okay i have the basics of it but maybe some other people who have completed the job can throw a few pointers my way. i also have to swap out and get a new water pum and timing belt while i'm at it. so if anyone has any advise other than the new people telling me to read the chilton. let me know anything additional would be a help. thanks.

what will i need so i have everything on me at the time. and a few tips. of dont do's.
 
I have been doing headgasket research for awhile now, you are going to get tons of different responses on what to do and what not to do. What kind of headgasket do you plan on using? Are you planning on having the head or block resurfaced? ARP head studs? As far as the timing belt and water pump go, the only advice I have is to go OEM. Heres a link to the timing belt replacement, http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html.
 
Gary 420A RS said:
okay i have the basics of it but maybe some other people who have completed the job can throw a few pointers my way. i also have to swap out and get a new water pum and timing belt while i'm at it. so if anyone has any advise other than the new people telling me to read the chilton. let me know anything additional would be a help. thanks.

what will i need so i have everything on me at the time. and a few tips. of dont do's.

On the GSX

If you have a camera...take lots of pictures, it's better than memory.

Timing belt, balance belt (if you still have it), auto tensioner, tensioner pulleys (2- 1 for tb, 1 for bb if you still have it), idler pulley, water pump, 5 seals (2-cam seals, crank seal, oil pump seal, balance shaft seal if you still got it)

Before you pull it apart I would suggest a leak test to find out the condition of the valve stem seals as they are probably leaking and now would be a good time to refresh the head. However, for just a factory fresh head (cleaning and resealing, which would include the 2 cam seals mentioned above) it should not cost more than $150-$200 plus a head gasket set. When you pull the head you should also replace the water/heater hoses and all the misc water jumper hoses that are spread over the engine. Also accessory belts.

Depending on the boost level, ARP head studs.

Torque all parts to spec.

Then you shouldn't have to worry for another 60k with proper maintenence.

When done...boost leak and exhaust leak test pre O2, seafoam works great for finding exhaust leaks.

And did I mention to TEST FOR LEAKS BETWEEN THE METERING DEVICE AND THE O2 SENSOR WHEN DONE.

Jim
 
ill just bring it to the dealer. i dont want to miss the meet on the 25th. moneys not the factor here it was more of me wanting to learn but when i get back from my deployment ill have plenty of knowledge when i rebuild the whole car.
 
its really not a difficult job, you should try it if your mechanicly inclinded. Save yourself the $1000 bill and use it towards your new turbo or w/e would be my option, truthly money is always an issue, you can always save it. Plus in my experience its seldom just a headgasket failure or even a headgasket failure at all on these cars, alot of times you need the head redone, so your labor payed will increase from there.

alex
 
A bunch of good advice. Just replace every component that could give problems.

And be sure to replace that auto tensioner.

Good job guys
 
thats what i was thinking i want to rebuild the whole thing but i need to stall till march. 3rd
 
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