Hahn kit question, going turbo!!

[warhurst13]

Im 16 and new to working on cars and everything so if I leave something out or say something wrong... Please let me know. I'm trying to learn.

Well I'm planning on going turbo, I'm gonna buy the Hahn stage 1 kit by the end of summer and run it on stock internals until i get more money to build my engine with new rods,pistons,cams,gears,port and polish etc.etc....but I had some questions. What all needs to be upgraded on the kit? I already knew that I wanted a bigger fuel pump (255lp Wally) and bigger injectors I was thinking like 550cc?? Big enough? My goals are to make it 400 whp DD(not on stock internals) other then that I wanted to upgrade the kit also to get a FMIC. # Is the Hahn/mitsu super 16g decent?? What other turbos Can fit in place of the 16g if it isnt anything great? For example will a t3t4 bolt right up??What's my limit on boost with a built motor and with everything I wanted to change on the kit? Also I know that I can't flash my ECU so I was planning on going with the mega squirt standalone EMS ECU. I have a friend in Fayetteville who owns a shop who I can install everything at when I get it so I will learn a great deal doing this.my cars bone stock STILL PLEASE don't tell me to go search around I've been reading on this site for a few months now and this is a mostly what I have learned ^ and don't tell me to buy a 4g63... I want to be different. But any comment or helpfull advice would be much appreciated. Thank you!!

 

[dsmpat95]

Stage 1 will get you near 200hp at the crank. And the kit comes with everything you need, so you don't need to buy other stuff. Hahn Racecraft - Automotive Turbosystems

 

[CLeMMeR]

Okay sooo by the end in assuming you gave a 420a. The only thing with that is that you're going to dump a whole lot if money into a car that it would be better off going 4g63t. They're amazing stick blocks where you don't need to even touch the internals at first (NOT TRYING TO CONVERT) just makes more sense as I would not want to see you put massive funds in.

Now on the other hand you have a variety of options, you can turbo if you'd like, I'd suggest a MHI 16g. 550s should work fine at first until you want to up the boost. Supporting mods are Definately going to be important before the boost just so you don't blow the block up.

Anyways I understand where you're coming from with wanting to be different (oh btw I'm 17) but not many people build 420a's anywhere over 300hp so you won't find much previous info to base off. You're talking a couple grand, let alone forged internals and a Standalone which costs (800+) naturally. I'd suggest a GST or GSX but it's always your choice remember that.

Another important factor of budget comes into play how much do you have roughly to work with?

 

[warhurst13]

I'm dead set on doing this to my 420a my uncle built his 420a OZ edition to around 400 hp. And the pump that comes with the kit is only like 145lp and the injectors are less then like 400cc. I don't have a car payment and I don't pay for insurance so all I'm paying for right now is gas thank god, I'm starting a new job where my paychecks will be around 300 every 2 weeks( not great buts it's something) I'll do whatever it takes to get this car to around 400whp. I want it!! Haha#

 

[burkgonzo]

Well make sure your car is up to par, do a compression test to see if your car is ready for the extra load.

 

[warhurst13]

Well make sure your car is up to par, do a compression test to see if your car is ready for the extra load.

What do I want my compression to be??

 

[CLeMMeR]

What do I want my compression to be??

As in when you buy parts for it? You'll want to lower the compression, then it's all your preference.

Edit: 9:6:1 overall
Standard 170 to 225 psi
Service limit 100
Difference between cylinders is 25% max

 

[dsmpat95]

As in when you buy parts for it? You'll want to lower the compression, then it's all your preference. Not sure what the stock compression is for the 420a

They are talking about compression test.

 

[warhurst13]

Also I have been seeing people talking about getting the pistons bored, what size do you get them bored over? .020 or .040? Witch is better with low compression pistons and better with the Hahn turbo set up? And how much is a compression test? Does the block get bored over as well?

 

[cliffkemp]

Stock compression for a 420a DOHC is 9.6. For the SOHC, it is 9.8.

First off, you are not going to get 400whp from a 16g whether a super or even evo 3.
Secondly, 550 injectors are going to top out around 300whp or so at best. You will need to get a front mount as well. The 420 is good for around 300 or so crank hp stock.

To get what you want, you will need to build the motor and get 9 or less on the compression so you have a little wiggle room on tuning. Some vendors sell 8.8 and seems to be the way to go.

You may want to get a better crank as well. You will need better cams as the stock cams will not flow that well on top end as they do not have much duration.

Dont even think about your trans holding up to all this power if you can get everything else done. The stock trans is the same from a neon (have one in my driveway right now and a spare trans as well in the trunk) The drive shafts are not going to handle that kind of power either. DSS has some upgrades for it.

You are going to need many gauges, exhaust as the stock is 2.25 and you will need to let the turbo breathe on both ends.

Keep in mind that the stock 420a has small cam gears and is not really built for the kind of power you are wanting to give it. People have done it though but, it is not that reliable....kinda like comparing a big block to a small block....420a is the small and the 4g is the big.

If you do this, get a better oil pan and an oil cooler as well. You may want to replace your springs and all on the head while you have it apart. Remember, hp is a function of of tq. If you can keep tq up at the top of the rpm range, hp will be higher too as it is rpm dependant.

 

[Black-Out]

Go find a 4g63.... just kidding.... Hopefully your power goal of 400whp is after you build your engine. That said with the proper management and supporting mods you could push the envelope on your stock 420a (maybe running 10-12 psi rather than running on 6-8 on the kit) but keep in mind that tuning (and to be to the point Ignition timing and fueling) will be of the upmost importance. People will tell you you can't run higher than the boost set for the kit reliably, but thats not completely accurate.

I've built many high compression turbo engines (beyond 9.0:1) and the key to their survival is supporting mods and tuning. On a typical n/a to turbo conversion you'll want to start with running a spark plug atleast 2 ranges cooler than what was origionally used as the factory plugs, because the normal plugs will be warm enough to cause detonation on boost levels over 6-8psi. Fueling will also be key, but I have a few things that should be mentioned here as well. Most basic turbo kits come with an FMU that will provide enrichment for fuel, but what should be mentioned is that thie FMU really is a band aid at best. You're definately on the right track with wanting to run management. Just keep in mind that lack of proper fueling (due to small volume injectors) and lack of the ability to retard spark advance on boost will be your largest limitations to making any real power safely with your kit after you get it installed in its basic format. Resist the temptation of upping boost without the proper supporting mods in this phase or you'll be spending money on that forged set up a lot sooner than you want.

My recommendations would be after you get the kit buy a good stock intercooler from the salvage yard or another DSM'r to hold you over till you can afford the nice one that comes with the more expensive kit. (assuming you can't get the stage whatever kit that comes with one.) anything is better than no intercooler at all,and for the pressures you'll be stuck running you should be just fine.

Next like you said get a fuel pump, run at least a 190 lph pump or better ...just scoop up the 255 like you mentioned you'll be fine.

Toss the FMU and get an Aeromotive 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge so you have more control over the fuel pressure...you'll have to custom make fuel feed and return lines to and from the fuel rails to the tank but trust me you're gonna need them anyway after you build for 400whp.....you may as well get that part of it done and out of the way.

Get your fuel injectors as you already stated. I would start with no less than 385cc injectors which will be good enough to protect your engine up to about 300whp without running higher than stock fuel pressures. This may not sound like much, but 300whp on the ground in a car thats less than 3000lbs curb weight is a quick car.....just not a fast one. If you've never had a car with that much power it can get you into trouble fairly quickly if your not paying attention to what your doing. You stated you were aiming at getting 550cc injectors....that should also be enough to get your goal of 400whp on a front wheel drive. AWD cars will require more injector because they have higher frictional losses and require more flywheel out put to reach 400whp (just incase you may have wondered why)

Run a cooler spark plug set ....as mentioned earlier I ran plugs atleast 2 ranges cooler to help ward off detonation this is an important step to tuning that can easily get over looked, but it's a crucial step to getting your car set up to run more than the basic pressure of 6-8psi reliably, as well as allowing you to run more timing safely which will make more torque and power.

Cometic head gasket and arp head studs. This is for obvious reasons. more combustion chamber pressure means you need a better gasket to ensure the gas goes out of the exhaust valves and not out of the combustion chamber and into the cooling system.

New timing belt, water pump cam seals and crank seal. These are for obvious reasons too, if you haven't serviced these items within the last couple of years (and the timing belt especially) then the last thing you'll want to do is leave it up to chance that they'll survive the extra stress of turbocharging.

have your radiator cleaned out or replace it with a dual core unit. again this is preimptive maitenance

Get management as you already mentioned, but I would make this a priority to the initial investment in turbocharging your car. This with a tune by a good tuner will ensure that your first time doing a turbo conversion doesn't end badly and who knows,you may end up pleasantly surprised with the power you'll make. My guess is, done correctly you should end up with more than just 200whp.

Good luck with it brotha!

William-

 

[warhurst13]

Go find a 4g63.... just kidding.... Hopefully your power goal of 400whp is after you build your engine. That said with the proper management and supporting mods you could push the envelope on your stock 420a (maybe running 10-12 psi rather than running on 6-8 on the kit) but keep in mind that tuning (and to be to the point Ignition timing and fueling) will be of the upmost importance. People will tell you you can't run higher than the boost set for the kit reliably, but thats not completely accurate.

I've built many high compression turbo engines (beyond 9.0:1) and the key to their survival is supporting mods and tuning. On a typical n/a to turbo conversion you'll want to start with running a spark plug atleast 2 ranges cooler than what was origionally used as the factory plugs, because the normal plugs will be warm enough to cause detonation on boost levels over 6-8psi. Fueling will also be key, but I have a few things that should be mentioned here as well. Most basic turbo kits come with an FMU that will provide enrichment for fuel, but what should be mentioned is that thie FMU really is a band aid at best. You're definately on the right track with wanting to run management. Just keep in mind that lack of proper fueling (due to small volume injectors) and lack of the ability to retard spark advance on boost will be your largest limitations to making any real power safely with your kit after you get it installed in its basic format. Resist the temptation of upping boost without the proper supporting mods in this phase or you'll be spending money on that forged set up a lot sooner than you want.

My recommendations would be after you get the kit buy a good stock intercooler from the salvage yard or another DSM'r to hold you over till you can afford the nice one that comes with the more expensive kit. (assuming you can't get the stage whatever kit that comes with one.) anything is better than no intercooler at all,and for the pressures you'll be stuck running you should be just fine.

Next like you said get a fuel pump, run at least a 190 lph pump or better ...just scoop up the 255 like you mentioned you'll be fine.

Toss the FMU and get an Aeromotive 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge so you have more control over the fuel pressure...you'll have to custom make fuel feed and return lines to and from the fuel rails to the tank but trust me you're gonna need them anyway after you build for 400whp.....you may as well get that part of it done and out of the way.

Get your fuel injectors as you already stated. I would start with no less than 385cc injectors which will be good enough to protect your engine up to about 300whp without running higher than stock fuel pressures. This may not sound like much, but 300whp on the ground in a car thats less than 3000lbs curb weight is a quick car.....just not a fast one. If you've never had a car with that much power it can get you into trouble fairly quickly if your not paying attention to what your doing. You stated you were aiming at getting 550cc injectors....that should also be enough to get your goal of 400whp on a front wheel drive. AWD cars will require more injector because they have higher frictional losses and require more flywheel out put to reach 400whp (just incase you may have wondered why)

Run a cooler spark plug set ....as mentioned earlier I ran plugs atleast 2 ranges cooler to help ward off detonation this is an important step to tuning that can easily get over looked, but it's a crucial step to getting your car set up to run more than the basic pressure of 6-8psi reliably, as well as allowing you to run more timing safely which will make more torque and power.

Cometic head gasket and arp head studs. This is for obvious reasons. more combustion chamber pressure means you need a better gasket to ensure the gas goes out of the exhaust valves and not out of the combustion chamber and into the cooling system.

New timing belt, water pump cam seals and crank seal. These are for obvious reasons too, if you haven't serviced these items within the last couple of years (and the timing belt especially) then the last thing you'll want to do is leave it up to chance that they'll survive the extra stress of turbocharging.

have your radiator cleaned out or replace it with a dual core unit. again this is preimptive maitenance

Get management as you already mentioned, but I would make this a priority to the initial investment in turbocharging your car. This with a tune by a good tuner will ensure that your first time doing a turbo conversion doesn't end badly and who knows,you may end up pleasantly surprised with the power you'll make. My guess is, done correctly you should end up with more than just 200whp.

Good luck with it brotha!

William-

Thank you!! That is exactly the response I was looking for, I understand what I need and what I need to get now. Thank you again, hopefully I'll be boosted soon and reach my goal!!

 

[cliffkemp]

Go find a 4g63.... just kidding.... Hopefully your power goal of 400whp is after you build your engine. That said with the proper management and supporting mods you could push the envelope on your stock 420a (maybe running 10-12 psi rather than running on 6-8 on the kit) but keep in mind that tuning (and to be to the point Ignition timing and fueling) will be of the upmost importance. People will tell you you can't run higher than the boost set for the kit reliably, but thats not completely accurate.

I've built many high compression turbo engines (beyond 9.0:1) and the key to their survival is supporting mods and tuning. On a typical n/a to turbo conversion you'll want to start with running a spark plug atleast 2 ranges cooler than what was origionally used as the factory plugs, because the normal plugs will be warm enough to cause detonation on boost levels over 6-8psi. Fueling will also be key, but I have a few things that should be mentioned here as well. Most basic turbo kits come with an FMU that will provide enrichment for fuel, but what should be mentioned is that thie FMU really is a band aid at best. You're definately on the right track with wanting to run management. Just keep in mind that lack of proper fueling (due to small volume injectors) and lack of the ability to retard spark advance on boost will be your largest limitations to making any real power safely with your kit after you get it installed in its basic format. Resist the temptation of upping boost without the proper supporting mods in this phase or you'll be spending money on that forged set up a lot sooner than you want.

My recommendations would be after you get the kit buy a good stock intercooler from the salvage yard or another DSM'r to hold you over till you can afford the nice one that comes with the more expensive kit. (assuming you can't get the stage whatever kit that comes with one.) anything is better than no intercooler at all,and for the pressures you'll be stuck running you should be just fine.

Next like you said get a fuel pump, run at least a 190 lph pump or better ...just scoop up the 255 like you mentioned you'll be fine.

Toss the FMU and get an Aeromotive 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge so you have more control over the fuel pressure...you'll have to custom make fuel feed and return lines to and from the fuel rails to the tank but trust me you're gonna need them anyway after you build for 400whp.....you may as well get that part of it done and out of the way.

Get your fuel injectors as you already stated. I would start with no less than 385cc injectors which will be good enough to protect your engine up to about 300whp without running higher than stock fuel pressures. This may not sound like much, but 300whp on the ground in a car thats less than 3000lbs curb weight is a quick car.....just not a fast one. If you've never had a car with that much power it can get you into trouble fairly quickly if your not paying attention to what your doing. You stated you were aiming at getting 550cc injectors....that should also be enough to get your goal of 400whp on a front wheel drive. AWD cars will require more injector because they have higher frictional losses and require more flywheel out put to reach 400whp (just incase you may have wondered why)

Run a cooler spark plug set ....as mentioned earlier I ran plugs atleast 2 ranges cooler to help ward off detonation this is an important step to tuning that can easily get over looked, but it's a crucial step to getting your car set up to run more than the basic pressure of 6-8psi reliably, as well as allowing you to run more timing safely which will make more torque and power.

Cometic head gasket and arp head studs. This is for obvious reasons. more combustion chamber pressure means you need a better gasket to ensure the gas goes out of the exhaust valves and not out of the combustion chamber and into the cooling system.

New timing belt, water pump cam seals and crank seal. These are for obvious reasons too, if you haven't serviced these items within the last couple of years (and the timing belt especially) then the last thing you'll want to do is leave it up to chance that they'll survive the extra stress of turbocharging.

have your radiator cleaned out or replace it with a dual core unit. again this is preimptive maitenance

Get management as you already mentioned, but I would make this a priority to the initial investment in turbocharging your car. This with a tune by a good tuner will ensure that your first time doing a turbo conversion doesn't end badly and who knows,you may end up pleasantly surprised with the power you'll make. My guess is, done correctly you should end up with more than just 200whp.

Good luck with it brotha!

William-

I agree with most of what you are saying but, the 550s are no where near close. I have 650s in my laser and an fp green that is capable of around 500hp on my setup and it is pushing 105% on my injectors at around 450hp at the crank. 550s will get you around 300whp on a fwd....maybe 330, but, you are going to burn them up maxing them out trying to get 400 at the crank....even on fwd. Most everything else you said, seems legit.

His trans nor axles are not going to hold up though. 400whp on a fwd is a nightmare unless it is going to be just a race car. Also, you got it backwards...his car will be fast but not quick as he will be spinning on launch so his eta will be high but, mph will be high as well to reflect the power....case in point... awd running a 12.5 will trap around 110 or so for a full weight 2g but, a fwd will run around 13 but will trap a little higher or the same due to not getting off the line as well as an awd. I knew what you meant though.

 

[grothe3297venge]

I know this isnt the answer to the OP, but why don't you try building your own kit (piece together) for half the price and still have money for other parts?? You seem to know what you want, just think be easier to save some cash to?!

 

[warhurst13]

I know this isnt the answer to the OP, but why don't you try building your own kit (piece together) for half the price and still have money for other parts?? You seem to know what you want, just think be easier to save some cash to?!

I have seen the "end all parts list to go turbo" on here but it doesn't say what types of clamps,clips,bolts, etc etc.. That I will need. How do you think that the build it yourself kit would match up with the stage one Hahn kit? Cn I still set the DIY kit at a lower boost of around 8 and it still be efficent? And bump it up when I get my internals? And is a t3 or t4 Better?? Nd what size waste gate will I need for a t4 if I get that turbo?

 

[Black-Out]

I agree with most of what you are saying but, the 550s are no where near close. I have 650s in my laser and an fp green that is capable of around 500hp on my setup and it is pushing 105% on my injectors at around 450hp at the crank. 550s will get you around 300whp on a fwd....maybe 330, but, you are going to burn them up maxing them out trying to get 400 at the crank....even on fwd. Most everything else you said, seems legit.

His trans nor axles are not going to hold up though. 400whp on a fwd is a nightmare unless it is going to be just a race car. Also, you got it backwards...his car will be fast but not quick as he will be spinning on launch so his eta will be high but, mph will be high as well to reflect the power....case in point... awd running a 12.5 will trap around 110 or so for a full weight 2g but, a fwd will run around 13 but will trap a little higher or the same due to not getting off the line as well as an awd. I knew what you meant though.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

@cliffkemp,
Yea wasn't reffering to quick as in quarter mile times brotha, just meant that as a description for how the car would feel once everything was dialed in correctly..... I would've stated et's and traps but this would have to me been a touch over kill for just stating the obvious which was simply put the cars gonna accelerate quicker than what it does now.... as for 550cc not being close enough, sure for an FP green brotha, but not on a 16G which is what he's talking about running on a 2wd configuration - not awd as your sig indicates you're running.....I have seen plenty of guys down here with bumped fuel pressure and a lot of good tuning make 300whp on 550cc injectors with a 16G on a front wheel drive ....not an awd such as you have. Anyways,the FP green out flows a 16G. maybe thats why you ran lean with 650's. But thanks for the comment non the less, I always enjoy hearing input from everyone else........

William-

 

[cliffkemp]

I agree with most of what you are saying but, the 550s are no where near close. I have 650s in my laser and an fp green that is capable of around 500hp on my setup and it is pushing 105% on my injectors at around 450hp at the crank. 550s will get you around 300whp on a fwd....maybe 330, but, you are going to burn them up maxing them out trying to get 400 at the crank....even on fwd. Most everything else you said, seems legit.

His trans nor axles are not going to hold up though. 400whp on a fwd is a nightmare unless it is going to be just a race car. Also, you got it backwards...his car will be fast but not quick as he will be spinning on launch so his eta will be high but, mph will be high as well to reflect the power....case in point... awd running a 12.5 will trap around 110 or so for a full weight 2g but, a fwd will run around 13 but will trap a little higher or the same due to not getting off the line as well as an awd. I knew what you meant though.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

@Cliffkemp,
Yea wasn't reffering to quick as in quarter mile times brotha, just meant that as a description for how the car would feel once everything was dialed in correctly..... I would've stated et's and traps but this would have to me been a touch over kill for just stating the obvious which was simply put the cars gonna accelerate quicker than what it does now.... as for 550cc not being close enough, sure for an FP green brotha, but not on a 16G which is what he's talking about running on a 2wd configuration - not awd as your sig indicates you're running.....I have seen plenty of guys down here with bumped fuel pressure and a lot of good tuning make 300whp on 550cc injectors with a 16G on a front wheel drive ....not an awd such as you have. Anyways,the FP green out flows a 16G. maybe thats why you ran lean with 650's. But thanks for the comment non the less, I always enjoy hearing input from everyone else........

William-

I would not recommend going with upping the fuel pressure but, that is my opinion. I have a 255 in the laser too and still go with just 37 or so psi. I could bump it up but, would rather just change the injectors as that is better to do for the long haul. I have a 16g in my talon actually and running 21 psi with a professional tune. I see your point on upping the pressure and not saying it cannot be done but, on his set up, he is wanting 400whp and going with larger injectors than 550s is the better alternative to upping fuel pressure.

I actually did not run lean but, did max out the injectors at the current boost level for my tune as I run slightly rich at 10.8 a/f usually.

My apologies for seeming short or anything but, to me, keeping stock pressure and getting larger injectors is looking ahead. Thanks for the clarification as well.

 

[eclipse420ags]

[QUOTE=cliffkemp;152974844[You may want to get a better crank as well. You will need better cams as the stock cams will not flow that well on top end as they do not have much duration.

Dont even think about your trans holding up to all this power if you can get everything else done. The stock trans is the same from a neon (have one in my driveway right now and a spare trans as well in the trunk) The drive shafts are not going to handle that kind of power either. DSS has some upgrades for it.


If you do this, get a better oil pan and an oil cooler as well.

He doesnt need a new crank for 400hp one of the fastest 420a with 580 somethin is running stock crank, the oil pan is fine you just have to run a return line to it and a crankscraper is nice to but not needed at first.

 

[eclipse420ags]

He doesnt need a new crank for 400hp one of the fastest 420a with 580 somethin is running stock crank, the oil pan is fine you just have to run a return line to it and a crankscraper is nice to but not needed at first.[/QUOTE]

 

[Black-Out]

I would not recommend going with upping the fuel pressure but, that is my opinion. I have a 255 in the laser too and still go with just 37 or so psi. I could bump it up but, would rather just change the injectors as that is better to do for the long haul. I have a 16g in my talon actually and running 21 psi with a professional tune. I see your point on upping the pressure and not saying it cannot be done but, on his set up, he is wanting 400whp and going with larger injectors than 550s is the better alternative to upping fuel pressure.

I actually did not run lean but, did max out the injectors at the current boost level for my tune as I run slightly rich at 10.8 a/f usually.

My apologies for seeming short or anything but, to me, keeping stock pressure and getting larger injectors is looking ahead. Thanks for the clarification as well.

No offense taken brotha, so there's no need to apologize for anything. This is good constructive critisism and I'll take that over the alternative anyday and twice on sunday.

I don't like bumping pressure that much either but if Its something that can get you by within 6-10psi over stock pressures I'm not beyond using it, then triming fuel injector pulse width at idle as I have before. But with new injectors made by companies such as ID and others the new internal designs have been proven to be reliable at as much as 100psi without some of the ill effects brought on by such high pressures. The only real negative at higher pressures than 45psi will be spray pattern changes due to the flow increases brought on by the bump in fuel pressure but I get where you're coming from....for the prime purpose of a perfect spray pattern 35-45psi fuel pressure is certainly ideal......if you go outside of this then it's making up for a short coming in volume and yea a larger set of injector would be better suited. It really just depends on how far outside of the ideal operating range you'll want to go to achieve the goals.

William-

 

[cliffkemp]

He doesnt need a new crank for 400hp one of the fastest 420a with 580 somethin is running stock crank, the oil pan is fine you just have to run a return line to it and a crankscraper is nice to but not needed at first.

[/QUOTE]

I never said he HAD to and the oil pan on the 420a is just primative...he does not HAVE to get a better one but, I suggest that he did while he is building. The faster 420a motors have way more than 580 as well. Scott Dixon, if I recall, has around 800 but, he has a stroked motor, hince the crank change. I never said it was possible but, the 420 is not as stout as the 4g. It is just good insurance to get better parts and the stock crank....just like the 4g(turboed from the factoy) CAN handle a lot of power but, in my opinion, would be better to change it out for a few hunderd dollars and get a better one and never have to worry about it...or at least not as much.

The oil pan only holds 4 quarts but, it is not as robust as the 4g in that, it has less surface area to help keep the oil cool. An oil cooler is a must and a better, higher capacity oil pan is not a must but, is a recommendation considering the higher temps being put on the oil with the addition of a turbo. My buddy turboed his rt back in 96 and just put a cooler on and front mount and all the goodies but, oil was still getting hotter than he liked. They did not have an aftermarket oilpan he could afford then for it or he said he would have done that to help. Moroso has a 6quart pan but is 400. It is a better option to stock and has a windage tray as well.

 

[Black-Out]

Thank you!! That is exactly the response I was looking for, I understand what I need and what I need to get now. Thank you again, hopefully I'll be boosted soon and reach my goal!!

Get lots of pics during the build up, and a dyno vid! Good luck with the project brotha....I had a 2g GS....I got tired of people telling me to get a GST as well.The car was given to me so I did the best I could with what I had at the time and that's what alot of us 4G guys can forget sometimes. Used one of my spare small 60 trim T3's from my XR4TI and a Star cast Iron manifold with a used tial wastegate and a used 1G by pass valve did the headgasket,water pump and timing belt and seals (the car had bent valves when I got it so the head was fresh) arp studs and a mk3 Toyota Supra Turbo front mount. It was a cheap set up but it worked well. Rigged in an msd BTM for timing control and used an aeromotive rrfpr for fueling. I never got the chance to wire in my e-manage but I was going to try to do that so I could run 450cc injectors with the 190lph that I already put in the car. I sold the car to a friend who needed a car then he sold the car to yet another friend who needed a car a yera later,but it still runs good and the current owner is actually getting some body work done to make it look nice. ....Hopefully your project turns out better than mine did, but hey mine wasn't that bad you wouldn't have been disappointed to have had that as a starting point .

Keep us posted on the progress!!

 

[grothe3297venge]

I have seen the "end all parts list to go turbo" on here but it doesn't say what types of clamps,clips,bolts, etc etc.. That I will need. How do you think that the build it yourself kit would match up with the stage one Hahn kit? Cn I still set the DIY kit at a lower boost of around 8 and it still be efficent? And bump it up when I get my internals? And is a t3 or t4 Better?? Nd what size waste gate will I need for a t4 if I get that turbo?

You can easily get everything to a T that comes in the Hahn kit, Here is a list of a stage II kit that if you part together yourself, you could spend half the money, and get decent parts http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...turbosystem-components-installation-pics.html (16g, fuel pump, fmu or port fueler or MS, nuts, bolts, clamps etc..) could be found and be just as reliable as the Hahn kit. As for boost setting, adjustability is up to you!