hack mass airflow

[carbon1g]

how do i hack the mass airflow sensor on a 1g.

 

[DeezNutsForYou]

you can pull out the lower honeycomb, but ONLY the lower one. And be careful not to damage it, as your car might have idle problems, and you might need to put it back in. My 92 worked fine, my brother 90 had problems. Also you can back out the screw (or plug). All you have to do is dig out the hard jelly like substance, and then turn in out with a screw driver. I believe this is all you want to do, unless you have some other kind of managment system.

 

[1G/TS-ituner]

what would happen if you were to take out the upper honey comb from the MAS???? also when you said digging out that jelly like stuff to adjust the screw what does that do exactly???

 

[joeym4130]

I think if u take the upper honeycomb out, your gonna be screwed I think that moves the air into little "tornados" for metering (Karman method?) So if you take those out, your car wont meter air right, and prob run lean.

 

[1G/TS-ituner]

that would explain the car poping and bucking then....also why the check engine light comes on after it starts to buckle and pop.....right now im replacing it with fiberglass screen to see if it helps at all, if not, then it's to the dealer to get another one and try again boy do i feel stupid....now all i need to know is if i should back that jelly filled screw all the way out? i mean what's it for???

 

[kpt4321]

The upper screen is there to straighten the air before it flows through the metering section of the MAF. Only the air going through that upper chamber is measured, and then the ECU figures out the total airflow because it knows what the areas of all of the sections of the MAF are.

If you remove the upper honeycomb, you will screw up both the calibration and the metering ability of the MAF. Leave it in place.

Removing the lower honeycomb allows the air a bigger space to flow through at the bottom of the MAF, which means that more air gets through without being measured. This leans the car out, which is a good thing (in general) for a stock car.

That screw is simply for factory calibration, as far as I can tell. If you want to, you can back it out so that even more air can get through the MAF without being metered, leaning the car out even more. The only reason to remove the "jelly" is so that you can adjust the screw.