2G Greddy Type RS BOV adjustment

[Talon_Tid_Tsi]

I just installed a greddy type rs bov. I set the bov at full soft. I backed the set screw out all the way then it touched the spring I turned it down on the spring a hair, and set it. Now my car sputters, and falls on it's A$$ at full throttle around 4,000 RPM. I also have a big 16g turbo with no fuel upgrades. I was told I needed to upgrade injectors just with the turbo alone. am I getting fuel cut, or do I need to re-ajust the BOV? thanks.

 

[siceclipse]

that is the worst post i have ever read:

look your BOV will either whistle or studder if too far in a certain direction.

sounds to me like you have a boost leak (since a b16g is at ful boost after 4000RPM)

 

[Locutus78]

When I changed out my IC piping and RS BOV I had similar prob. It turned out that the UICP where it connected to the Throttle body did not have a good seal. When ever I would step on it the pressure would leak out.

 

[dsmgrimreaper]

fuel cut from the sounds your boosting to much i was able to boost 20lbs with stock everything with a big 16g

 

[Talon_Tid_Tsi]

Thanks for your help. I will check for boost leaks.

 

[breakaway]

If you didn't buy recirculation kit for you RS BOV then it means that you are venting your BOV to atmosphere. And if you haven't got MAF-T with GM-MAS then it is a bad idea. I suggest you to read this.

 

[Talon_Tid_Tsi]

I got the recirculation kit, thanks for the suggestion. I'm on my way to home depot to make a boost leak tester.

 

[joe]

do you have a boost gauge? If not get one!

 

[Talon_Tid_Tsi]

Update: I did a leak test and found 2 obvious leaks. I fixed both leaks. There is another leak around the intake manifold area. I didn't find that one yet,but is on the adgenda tommorrow. I had hoped that the 2 obvious leaks would make the talon run decent. I was very wrong. I couldn't even race a v6 mustang at a light (yes I lost). I get sputtering, and sounds like it's misfireing now around 4,500-5,000 rpm's, and when I let off the gas it sounds like a dog howling from under the hood for a quick second, however before 4,500 rpms the car runs pretty good. When the car is not under a load at a light, I can rev the car to redline w/o any sputering (just to let you all know). how much PSI should I boost leak test to and hold before I call it good? Thanks for the help.

 

[Talon_Tid_Tsi]

do you have a boost gauge? If not get one!

I do have an aftermarket, but it's not hooked up. I'm going by the stock gage. I will hook up the aftermarket gage tommorrow. Thanks for the info.

 

[turbotalon_]

I've heard 25psi for 40 seconds.

 

[siceclipse]

i cant fu(kin believe this!!!


this is the first time we've ever told someone it was a boost leak and they immediately went to go test it with a boost leak tester.


Thank you! Thank you!

There is a God!

 

[turbotalon_]

Haha I still havent gone and tested mine for boost leaks. My bov opens whenever I get on the boost. It's been too hot here to do anything about it yet.

 

[Talon_Tid_Tsi]

i cant fu(kin believe this!!!


this is the first time we've ever told someone it was a boost leak and they immediately went to go test it with a boost leak tester.


Thank you! Thank you!

There is a God!

Hehe no prob. I'm here for the advise. I'm going to check out spark plugs/wires ect.... I've never checked them. I do have autolite #63 in the car now. I'm gonna switch to ngk.

 

[Talon_Tid_Tsi]

I found out a few more probs. I do have autolite spark plugs #63. I'm not sure if there even right for my car .Never even heard of dsmer's using them. The gaps were #1 plug (from passenger side to driver side) (.042) #2 (.037) #3(.037) #4(.038). Possibly the wrong plugs and way tooooo much gap. I checked the resistance in the wires. The hayne's manual said rsistance in all wires should be at 22K. I know I will sound like a retard now, but I was not positive on were to set the ohm meter at. There were settings on the meter for 2000k- 200k- 20k- 2000- and 200. Common sense told me set it at 20k (please correct me if i'm wrong) feel free to call me a retard, I just want to learn. I set the ohm meter at 20K my readings are #1(passenger side to driver side) (1.19) #2(1.11) #3(.97) #4(.71). Common sense told me that all wires did not have enough resistense, Is that correct? I do have a rough idle, and sputtering at 4.5k rpms. I thinks it's part of the problem. I will give an update soon.

 

[Talon_Tid_Tsi]

After changing plugs and wires, the Talon still studders at 4-5,000 rpm's. I do have a much better idle now. However It idles at about 1,500 rpm's most the time.

I've heard 25psi for 40 seconds.

I'm NO where 25psi for even a second on holding boost. I'm going to continue with the boost leakage problem for now. I do have a question. If I run the car w/o the wastegate connected and the car does not studder at high rpm's does it rule out any issues? like ignition issues? this just means i have a boost leak issue right? Also the Talon runs great all the way to redline with the stock BOV. Thanks for any help

 

[siceclipse]

no, he means pressurise the system with 25 psi and it should slowly bleed out (about 40 seconds) and if it doesnt hold, you'll find your boost leak there.

 

[Talon_Tid_Tsi]

Update: Found out the Talon was only putting out 30 amps at the alternator. Figured this might be a problem,maybe not enough spark at high rpms. Update later

 

[turbotalon_]

Well I solved my problem the clamp on my IC-UICP fell off! Stupid POS, I replaced the new one with an old one that was bigger and it was running great till my boost gauge stopped working. I blew the vac line to it off, ziptied and its great now. Yes for the boost leak test pump it up to 25psi and it should SLOWLY decrease.