Greddy FMIC overheating

[4ged4G63]

is your car red?

 

[tjh-dsm]

Originally posted by candela
I definetly think the spal pushes way more air and possibly cools better. I dont really know cause I got it all at the same time, and its never overheated once...I definetly recommend a fluidyne, they look good and perform well...

Ok, you just contradicted yourself right there, you have NO IDEA if the SPAL is better, you just assume so b/c it's aftermarket or some one told you so. Your post makes no sense.

 

[Black95GSX]

Originally posted by 4ged4G63
is your car red?

Who are you directing this comment to?

 

[Beemer]

Actually, being an avid autocrosser, I encountered this overheat problem constantly due to 8 grand in first or second gear going thru corners. What I did? You will laugh when i tell ya....
I went to a motorcycle rebuilder and bought 3 electric fans from a liquid cooled honda 500 sideways v-twin street bike. They were a perfect fit for my fmic, and forced enough air up thru it to give me the extra airflow i needed over the radiator. you could also order some big hi velocity computer case fans...they are 12 volt as well. Mount them with 6x9 speaker bolts and a piece of plastic on the bolt and nut side to keep them secure, or zip ties (ghetto, but it worked for me)
I agree with canning the ductwork and getting your fan shrouds back on, especially the shrouds. They create a vacuum so the fans pull cold air from the front of the bumper instead of sucking hot air from around the engine and then blowing that back. For the guy with the SPALS, I would run a toggle switch to a ford starter relay and then run straight from the battery to the relay and out to the fans if I was you. You can hook the relay wire to the fuse box on an accessory line that is open, and it draws very little power compared to trying to run the power for 2 fans thru your wiring harness..
If i was still running my FMIC I would email you a pic, but i went back to my alamo sidemount with an alcohol/water spray bar because one of my sponsors thought all the fans in front (or behind, i tried it both ways) was stupid looking and he thought the fans blocked airflow at 100 plus on the straightaways. BTW, those computer fans can be had with ball bearings and they can move some serious air... try bestbyte.net or nexfan.com for info on smaller fans up to around 120mm or so

 

[larryd]

Originally posted by JoeyGST
Larryd: Did you install the turbo with a kit that came with new water
pipes, or did you bent your stock pipes to work?

I bent my stock pipes, and they are kind of beat up, I think they might
not flow too well. Do you know if ALL of the coolant in the system has
to flow through those two pipes? Or is that a seperate path?

my turbo is a T04B housing which doesnt require you to bend the water pipes.. the T04E housing does

 

[candela]

How did I contradict myself? I said I definetly think the sapl pushes more air(its rated at a higher cfm, and feels more powerful), but said and "possibly" cools better. Thats why I said Im not sure, because I installed everything at once...

 

[JoeyGST]

Situation Update:

I tooked out my old thermostat and boiled it to see if it still worked.
It opened just like it should, and it remained closed at room temp.
I bought a new OEM Mitsu thermostat anyways to replace it with.
After installing it, I added in 80% water, 10% coolant, 10% Water
Wetter and went for a drive while datalogging.

Temps were okay on the way to the highway, about 195-205 degrees.
But when I floored it in 2nd and 3rd, the temps just kept climbing
and climbing. The temps jumped to 223 degrees, and I slowed down
and got off the highway. The temp gauge needle moved from the
middle towards the upper quarter.

I decided to just take off the FMIC to see if that's what's causing
the overheating. If I still overheat with sidemount, then I'll know that
theres something else wrong with the car.

 

[toshi128]

good idea of the way of trouble shooting by taking out the FMIC... good luck!

If the problem is caused by not having enough air to the radiator, then you might be able to solve it by placing a fan between FMIC and radiator. so the fan can blow some air to it. I've seen a photo of this on one of the full race skylines. SO, it might work for our cars as well.

 

[4ged4G63]

Originally posted by Beemer
Actually, being an avid autocrosser, I encountered this overheat problem constantly due to 8 grand in first or second gear going thru corners. What I did? You will laugh when i tell ya....
I went to a motorcycle rebuilder and bought 3 electric fans from a liquid cooled honda 500 sideways v-twin street bike. They were a perfect fit for my fmic, and forced enough air up thru it to give me the extra airflow i needed over the radiator. you could also order some big hi velocity computer case fans...they are 12 volt as well. Mount them with 6x9 speaker bolts and a piece of plastic on the bolt and nut side to keep them secure, or zip ties (ghetto, but it worked for me)
I agree with canning the ductwork and getting your fan shrouds back on, especially the shrouds. They create a vacuum so the fans pull cold air from the front of the bumper instead of sucking hot air from around the engine and then blowing that back. For the guy with the SPALS, I would run a toggle switch to a ford starter relay and then run straight from the battery to the relay and out to the fans if I was you. You can hook the relay wire to the fuse box on an accessory line that is open, and it draws very little power compared to trying to run the power for 2 fans thru your wiring harness..
If i was still running my FMIC I would email you a pic, but i went back to my alamo sidemount with an alcohol/water spray bar because one of my sponsors thought all the fans in front (or behind, i tried it both ways) was stupid looking and he thought the fans blocked airflow at 100 plus on the straightaways. BTW, those computer fans can be had with ball bearings and they can move some serious air... try bestbyte.net or nexfan.com for info on smaller fans up to around 120mm or so

good information dude, thanks. I went to nexfan and looked around. I found this fan that flows about 65 cfm. Two of these floowin 130 cfm would probably be effective. And they are cheap too, about 20 bucks for two. Oh, and its ball bearing too

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

http://www.nexfan.com/43/323.htm?457

http://www.nexfan.com/newitem.htm?457

 

[Black95GSX]

... I put a fan that flows 600+ CFM on Pete's car when he was having cooling problems -- and they basically went away after that.

I wired it to be turned on all the time -- like the other 2 fans he had.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

My AC SPAL flows over 700cfm how could that not be better

 

[Black95GSX]

John, You know for a FACT that those 12v computer fans will flow well over 700cfm


By the way, before you pulled your FMIC off, did you try installing weatherstripping between the AC Condensor and the Radiator?

Did you take your radiator out and take it to a radiator shop so that they can check for a clogged core? --- this would DEFINATELY prevent your rad. from operating at peak performance. Keep in mind, when they do this, they have to take off the end tanks on the radiator to examine it properly.

 

[JoeyGST]

So I swapped the sidemount back on the car yesturday and now all
overheat problems are gone. I guess that means that I don't have
any other problems like leaking headgasket or broken water pump
or thermostat (since I replaced it).

Now I run around 205-210 degrees when boosting on the highway,
and 195-205 degrees crusing, which is normal stock according to
RRE

With the FMIC, I hit 223 degrees almost instantly when I floored it
on the highway. It would run around 215-220 just cruising.

Anyway, I think I can safely say that there is nothing wrong with my
car's cooling system. It all had to do with airflow. I'm going to keep
the sidemount on the car for now. I'll probably get a Fluidyne later
and cut the stock radiator shroud so that it'll fit back on the car.

Thanks for all your help guys...I'll let you know when (if) I ever get
the FMIC setup right on the car.

 

[Black95GSX]

Umm... you could still have a cooling problem....... your cooling system could be operating at 60-75% of its capability right now, and still give you the temps your describing.

Yet with the FMIC on, it needs 100%, due to less direct airflow.


Glad it works with the SMIC -- but I'd still look into other "issues"

 

[4ged4G63]

Originally posted by Black95GSX


Who are you directing this comment to?

not you mr. BlackGSXsittingonjackstands

 

[4ged4G63]

Originally posted by Black95GSX
John, You know for a FACT that those 12v computer fans will flow well over 700cfm


.....

I never said that dufas. I had only scrolled half way down the page when I found those. Where can one get some fans that flow " 600+ cfm" that weigh next to nothing?

Do the SPAL fans make a difference or not? What fans did you put on Pete's car?

 

[Black95GSX]

Pete got a generic 13" fan -- did it weigh as much as a computer fan, hell no.

Does it weigh more then a fluadine.... hell no

 

[toshi128]

Black95GSX: If joey solved his over heating problem by removing the FMIC, doesn't this mean that the problem was caused by the FMIC blocking the air to the radiator?

My car still runs warm/hot with the fluidyne and new spal fans, i'm thinking about putting a spal fan in front of my fluidyne tho.

 

[Black95GSX]

Toshi1280 -- That would be going about things in a direct cause and effect.

That would be like saying that when you put your boost controller to 20 psi and get knock -- then remove the boost controller and the knock goes away, that it has to be the boost controller itself causing the knock. -- Obviously it was how the boost controller was configured that was causing the knock, not the controller itself.

If the FMIC caused his car to overheat -- it would cause every car with the same setup to overheat.

There has to be something wrong with his cooling system, end of story.

Think of it this way. Let's say your radiator is 4'x4' -- and is completely open to the wind. It will get a lot of airflow at let's say 40mph.
At the same time, if you put another radiator infront of it, that is about the same size (in this case, an air to air intercooler). You are heating up the air before it reaches the radiator, which will affect how well the air can cool the radiator. In a perfect world, your car would still not overheat if that is the case -- contrary to what a lot of people think, I beleive our cooling system's deisgn was done very well from the factory. But if you throw in the fact that over time your radiator WILL get deposits in it (unless you use distilled water, and never anything else) from the minerals and other "crap" in the water, you get build up. Build up will make life even harder for the radiator to work... since the build up acts like an insulator keeping the heat in the radiator even further.



That's my explination for now, I could go on and on about cooling systems.

 

[4ged4G63]

Originally posted by Black95GSX
.......
.....your radiator WILL get deposits in it (unless you use distilled water, and never anything else) from the minerals and other "crap" in the water, you get build up. Build up will make life even harder for the radiator to work... since the build up acts like an insulator keeping the heat in the radiator even further.



....

oh master cooling expect, is there a solution that one could purchase to flush and clean the deposits out of the radiator?

 

[JoeyGST]

I know exactly what you're sayin', Black95GSX, but it's very hard to
test the cooling system.

Having the stock radiator cut up to test flow doesn't sound too appealing
to me...I have terrible luck when it comes to having work done on my
car by a shop. Somehow, I always get screwed.

Anyone have a Fluidyne radiator they wanna lemme borrow to test
the cooling system?

 

[Black95GSX]

Okay mike... thanks again for being sarcastic as hell


Alright... how to do it? Take it to a radiator shop, they pull off your end tanks, clear the core out, put them back on, pressure test it, and ship it.


Average price for this is $50 to get all the buildup/blockages removed.

Don't trust those "flushes in a bottle" -- I would NEVER do something like that to my car.

 

[toshi128]

Black95GSX: What do you think is the cause in my case then??? I know joey moved his FMIC and temporary solved his over heating problem. He has stock cooling system. I have greddy FMIC, fluidyne, spal fans, and running warm when driving uphill. The water/coolant mix is 50/50. Since the fluidyne and the fans are brand new (less than a month old). So, inside of the fluidyne should be clean as hell. I need your opinion on this.

 

[4ged4G63]

Originally posted by Black95GSX
Okay mike... thanks again for being sarcastic as hell


....
Don't trust those "flushes in a bottle" -- I would NEVER do something like that to my car.

damni t dude, I was being sarcastic and serious at the same time. You need to start recognizing this.

Serious, I want to know if there is a good liquid out there that I can dump into my radiator and have it come out clean so I can then put distilled water in it. I am picky mofo and wish I knew this last year whrn the radiatro went in.

 

[Black95GSX]

Mike... no, anyone who advertisies that kinda $hit lies.


Toshi --- what fans do you run? do you have shrouds on them? (which forces them to suck air through the radiator vs from anywhere they like)... do you have any weather stripping between your AC condensor and Radiator? What temps are you seeing exactly?