The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

FMIC - Who has overheating issues?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rob Rohr

15+ Year Contributor
91
1
Aug 19, 2003
Best, Montana
How many of you 1G owners with large FMICs have overheating issues with the stock cooling system? How many of you have no cooling problems?

I know there are many ways around overheating issues with parts suchs as larger rads, higher CFM fans, cutting up the bumper, etc but I want to run a large FMIC and avoid these problems. Is this possible?

My plan is to install the large FMIC and replace the drivers side fan with a high-CFM slimline unit but keep the cooling system otherwise stock and retain the A/C. Currently I have no overheating issues with my car, even in traffic on the hottest days with or without the A/C on.

Feedback?
 
Your not planning on road racing with a FMIC and stock cooling system, are you?
 
I have the dejon race fmic with one stock fan that is hacked to hell. I have set in 100 degree traffic for hours and havent over heated. Infact the needle on the stock gauge as never once gone south of the middle. I have however removed the thin radiator for the a/c that was in front of the stock radiator. and I have also cut the bumber.
 
I found even with a fluidyne rad and a small second fan I the temps would climb on hot days going uphill for long distances. My solution, although maybe not the prettiest, was to build an aluminum scoop with about a 1" opening under the FMIC to pull in cool air to the rad. Works great and stopped the overheating. It's too bad some vendor hasn't caught on and built a front lip with a rad duct - I know I'd be interested.
 
turbohounds said:
I found even with a fluidyne rad and a small second fan I the temps would climb on hot days going uphill for long distances. My solution, although maybe not the prettiest, was to build an aluminum scoop with about a 1" opening under the FMIC to pull in cool air to the rad. Works great and stopped the overheating. It's too bad some vendor hasn't caught on and built a front lip with a rad duct - I know I'd be interested.


great idea... you have any pics??

:thumb:
 
im also having a problem overheating that really confuses me. About once or twice a month my fan will not kick on. i hooked up a switch and when it dont turn on by itself i just turn the switch on. when it overheats i shut the car down the secnd the temp goes anything above half on the stock guage.Also when this happens (goes above half) the collant overflow bottle is boiling over and comming out all over the place.
i have a indy race core fmic and 1 slimline fan on the passengers side , and a smaller overflow bottle (cause of the fmic)
 
I have the slowboy 1g kit on my car with a stock cooling sytem with no a/c fan and have no over heating problems. I also cut my bumber to expose the fmic.
 
ok i have the slowboy 1g kit also and let me tell you i hit about 260degrees many times ... get yourself a slim fan ...after that you are going to be all set
 
MigTalon said:
great idea... you have any pics??

:thumb:

Like I said, it's functional, not pretty. All the more reason I'd love to see a vendor jump in and make a functional 1G front lip. It does work great for getting cold air back to the rad.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
pboglio said:
Your not planning on road racing with a FMIC and stock cooling system, are you?

No, I don't plan to actually road race the car but it will see Auto-X use and lots of high speed back-road driving. So far it seems that some have overheating issues and some don't so I wonder what the determining factor is?
 
Rob Rohr said:
No, I don't plan to actually road race the car but it will see Auto-X use and lots of high speed back-road driving. So far it seems that some have overheating issues and some don't so I wonder what the determining factor is?

Some guys are ingenius like this one with the "Ram" duct and some are lazy, don't care and overheat. I did the similar thing but cut ducts thru the front portion of the black part of the 97 bumper and ducted air "Over" the Intercooler. Same thing though. I don't overheat but I wouldn't dare take it onto a road course, its that marginal. I'm also running a SPAL 12" fan all the time on the drivers side, among other tricks. There is no one secret, I'm using like 10 different tricks just to get my water temps to drop rapidly after a full 3rd gear pull.
 
pboglio said:
Some guys are ingenius like this one with the "Ram" duct and some are lazy, don't care and overheat. I did the similar thing but cut ducts thru the front portion of the black part of the 97 bumper and ducted air "Over" the Intercooler. Same thing though. I don't overheat but I wouldn't dare take it onto a road course, its that marginal. I'm also running a SPAL 12" fan all the time on the drivers side, among other tricks. There is no one secret, I'm using like 10 different tricks just to get my water temps to drop rapidly after a full 3rd gear pull.

I know most people are lazy and that going the extra mile on little details and install can help, but it is a bit scary if your car starts to get hot after one 3rd gear pull! IMO that is not a well built or useable performance car and needs a far more effective cooling system ASAP! What bother owing a car that can't be driven at WOT for more than 30sec?!?!?!? I am not trying to flame you but do you see my point?
 
Aight this is what you have to do, get rid of your A/c and the a/c rad. because think you have the stock radiator ac rad then the thick front mount. I have noticed that if u get rid of the a/c completely u benefit in a couple ways stop over heating and lose a good 40lbs or more down side u will sweat your balls off. For you other guys trying blasting the heat on that will cool your car as well. temp fix. i found there no need for additional fans and ive driven it hard on 95 degree days
 
Jaysgsx14 said:
Aight this is what you have to do, get rid of your A/c and the a/c rad. because think you have the stock radiator ac rad then the thick front mount.

I am sure removing the A/C helps but I want to keep mine in the car.
 
Rob,

Where are you going to be doing a repeated 30 second WOT pull on the street. That would be near impossible with traffic even on an expressway and leathal to other innocent drivers. On my car that would put me near 150 mph. From my datalogs I would need a cool down of 15 seconds before I did another 30 second WOT pull. No way is that going to be on an Auto-x course either. Your talking about a LARGE Road Course.

Your talking about running stock this and stock that, come on now. My car easily handles 3-4 repeated 3rd gear pulls, even thats excessive on the street. I'd recommend calling Archer Racing, they still might remember a thing or two from their DSM road race winning days.
 
pboglio said:
Your talking about running stock this and stock that, come on now. My car easily handles 3-4 repeated 3rd gear pulls, even thats excessive on the street. I'd recommend calling Archer Racing, they still might remember a thing or two from their DSM road race winning days.

Fair enough, perhaps I misunderstood how close to the limit your cooling system is. Regardless, I may not be able to go full WOT for 30 seconds but I assure you my car sees lots of sessions where I am on and off WOT for the better part of 10mins....great mountain road fun :D I am not going it run close to the edge, time for a big rad!
 
I have a 21x9x3 tube and fin, stock everything and no problems...only 1 fan works too. I guess its just luck of the draw :)
 
I have the Slow Boy Racing core, with 1 stock fan running all of the time and even in 90' heat in summer the car stays under 200 degress usually. Stock Thermostat and 50/50 mixture for coolant.

*By 1 fan I only have 1 fan in the car at all times*
\/ Core as shown here
 
turbohounds said:
It's too bad some vendor hasn't caught on and built a front lip with a rad duct - I know I'd be interested.


Yeah I was thinking about doing that when I get my fmic, they should make a 1g bumper with duct cutouts like the evo7-8 have.
 
Everyone has failed to mention the most simple starting point: Your antifreeze to straight water ratio. Run the least amount of antifreeze you can. Water is MUCH better at cooling your car than antifreeze. I used to run 50% of each before I moved up to a FMIC...after overheating the first time I switched to about 20% antifreeze and 80% water with 1 bottle of Water Wetter and it has since not happened again in many 90*+ days. It is a good idea to run some antifreeze even in the summer as it has anit-corrosion properties. You could go all the way to 10% antifreeze and 90% water with 2 bottles of Watter Wetter.
You will have to run more antifreeze in the winter (duh I know!) but you won't have the hot days that you get in summer.
I would start with this and see if more extreme measures even need to be taken.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top