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2G Got my first 2G

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AlexGsxCummins

Proven Member
396
38
May 31, 2014
Bremerton, Washington
So guys, even after i just got done asking if i should put 6k into my 1g that i had completly taken apart, or buy a 2G, everyone told me to start the 1g, but oddly enough my tax return arived, that was 4500, i jumped on craigslist like normal and the same day a army guy was leaving washington and headed back home and had a evo so he didnt want to ship his 2g home. I honestly feel like i stole this car, its a great car so far. So to start it off its a 95' gsx with all options, i will upload pictures after this they are all on my phone. So the pro's its slightly modded i was sorta looking for mostly stock but it seems like this was done well, it has dsmlink v3, evo 3 16g, vrsf fmic, 190 fuel pump, evo coil pack, evo 8 injectors, evo 8 intake, fp exhaust manifold, wideband, tru boost gauge, new tires, rebullt head, headstuds, bs delete (this was found when he was replacing the timing belt so hes not sure if the bottom end has been rebuilt). the issues with it that i have for the most part fixed already, the driver window wasnt working, the front bumper was held on with zipties, also the fmic was held on with zipties i found out, water leak in the cabin. i asked if the car was ever in a crash (wouldnt have stopped me from buying it just woundering) and either he hid it from me or he didnt know that it was, i found out first when i was fixing the window and the inside of the door was green, then when i was messing with the bumper i was adjusting the headlights and seen part of it damaged under the hood, didnt look major i was able to get everything to normal. One mistake i made was when i driled holes in the brace to bolt on the fmic the side of the drill where the teeth are to tighten bits on was touching the fmic, it grided a small amound off the side but i dont think its a big concern IF it start to leak its a easy spot to have someone weld up. the car he said was on a "safe tune" from a evo. im not good with dsmlink yet sense this is my first time having it and i have alot of reading to do to catch up to it, so for now i dont really get on it much i live close to english racing also so i may have them do the first tune on it. the big problem now, it has a comp stage 2 clutch, but the transmission is going to need some attention soon, it is pretty hard to get into first ive already been stuck at a light once with it just grinding and i cant get it in, that will be coming soon. also it could use a paint job its not the best you can tell the spots that are oem paint, some spray painted spots, and some new painted spots, but the inside is very clean. well long story short im loving this car already! once i fix all these small things ill be doing a leakdown test, compression test things like that to really see how healthy this motor is, its currently running 13 psi, oh also it came with some really nice brembo front calipers, now i need to source some rear ones also. im not sure what evo these brembos are off of.
 
Check the shifter bushings on the tranny. The stock ones are rubber and they can go making it difficult to go into gear. Also search on YouTube for jacks tranny clutch pedal adjustment. It could just need to be adjusted, or maybe need a new slave and or master cylinder. Also could need to be rebled. These options are a lot cheaper and easier to do than pulling the tranny and changing the clutch. I would start with that. If the clutch is slipping between shifts then I would look further into buying a new clutch.
 
Its new clutch I don't think that's the issue, I think its the transmission itself is wore out, it will hold it on first and it will fall in half way and just start grinding really bad and I do that a few times and it will go into gear, it has new metal bushings on the shifter and pedals. Hey these are high dollar Nissan wheels :) haha
 
You said you can't get it into first.. Your not holding the clutch in for long periods of time at a stop are you? (Because I really like my thrust bearing I never hold the clutch in longer than I have to. I also run no clutch to start mod.)

If your syncros are shot the input and output shafts are not going to play nice and you need to leave that clutch in until right when your going to shift. You also need to look into double clutching.

My 3rd and 5th syncros are sketch, however if I double clutch it shifts awesome. In first if the shafts don't line up you won't be able to put it in gear it will feel like it's stopping you. When you let out the clutch it spins up the shafts evenly and you can then pop in the clutch and shift.
 
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Ive tried it all holding the clutch for a while, doing it fast nothing seems to effect it. Heres a video sorry for the quality camera is broken
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could it have something to do with the clutch pedal being like 4 or 5 inch off the floor (as in whrn it engages)
 
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almost seems like your clutch is not disengaging properly.. so adjusting it or replacing master and slave cylinders may help, if you leave it in gear in 1st and with the clutch in all the way does it want to drive or pull a little? could be the clutch not fully disengaged is keeping the transmission spinning..

Flush your transmission if you haven't already, I used amsoil syncromesh to do mine and it helped with shifting.

I was reading some odd info that if your clutch is vibrating it can do so enough to grab onto the transmission so when your disengaged its still dragging. this could be an adjustment issue with the clutch.. bleed the clutch lines and check throw adjustment for the pedal.
 
Here is some good info on harmonics and wrecking havoc on your flywheel and clutch..

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239850
There are multiple views on this even on this post.. its just information and good stuff to know the part where this is hard on the transmission and can cause clutch plates to vibrate apart I thought was kinda nuts but I get it.

Since your not getting dragging at 5k that is interesting I was thinking it was likely your issue. So we may be into transmission or potentially harmonic issues still.. seriously by putting a fluidamper pulley on shifting my dsm became much much smoother. Night and day, I'm not sure thats whats causing all of your issue, but I was blown away with the difference of running that thing.
 
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Didnt get to the cluch today sadly, i got off work with all this rain looked in the truck and again, full of water i was hoping i fixed this..anyway i got home removed the plastics noticed whoever put the high rise spoiler on it put it on completely wrong, its mounted at the rear of the trunk to the bolt they use hits the weather stripping. Im hoping i temp fixed it for now, im repainting it soon so ill move it where it should be. I hope now its done leaking and my floor can start drying!
 
That's kinda funny in an odd way I opened my trunk today and a ton of water poured out of the left side of the trunk hatch while it was opening. I remember when I was looking up clutch adjustments that its supposed to have like a half inch or so of play while its out. I changed my master and slave clutch cylinders out and thought I could use the old adjustment hardware on the clutch pedal.. turns out no, no I couldn't. there was a huge difference between the new and old hardware and I couldn't for the life of me get the older piece to adjust properly so swapped with the newer hardware and it was fine. The piece on the clutch pedal its self was like an inch and a half shorter on the newer hardware vs the old stuff, I will say the older one had more weight and metal was better quality but whatever.
 
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