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Going to dyno, any advice

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mitsuclipsegsx

15+ Year Contributor
2,561
8
Apr 5, 2004
Dover plains, New York
I am going to the dyno june 9th, just wondering should i know anything, i know check plugs and boost leak test, i was thinking about getting 110 octane, how much should i get, and whats a dyno like, do i drive it, is it just a 3rd gear pull to redine.
 
What are you going in for? Are you doing any tuning or just a baseline? If you are looking for a baseline or tuning on 110 then yes get some. Most dynos, unless you know the shop real well will not allow you to drive the car, infact, many require waivers to be signed so if the arent at fault if there is a problem.

You seem to have the rest right though. Make sure everything is in order and eliminate as many potential problems as you can.
 
If they're tuning for daily driving then use the fuel you do everyday, don't get race fuel. If you have a datalogger bring it with you so you can monitor knock and have some datalogs for troubleshooting.
 
I would recommend bringing pump gas and race gas if you want a tune for either one. If you're looking for a street tune that you'll drive every day, load up on the fuel you use every day as mentioned above. If your goal is to make big numbers and not care about the street tune, which wouldn't make much sense to me, then you'd run on race gas only and see what she can do.
 
The reason why you wouldn't want to tune for race gas is because it has a much higher resistance to detonation/knock.

So if you are tuned for race gas and are using pump, then it's possible you will knock very badly, cause damage, or just run poorly.
 
The one thing I hate most is when customers come to dyno and they neglect to look over their car before bringing it. There is nothing more annoying than having to strap down a car and then to hear the customer say..."oh I forgot to tell you, but my car is acting weird latly." Before you bring your car to a shop to get tuned be sure that all lines are hooked up correctly. I can't tell you how many times I have seen boost controllers hooked up wrong. Also, make sure you don't have any boost leaks. Taking off the intake and hooking up a tester while the car is hot and on the dyno is a waste of time. Also, check your spark plugs and make sure they are correct. On Evos especially, they don't like BPR or any iridium type plugs. I have noticed a lot of boost gauges reading incorrectly as well. Be sure your boost setting is where you want it, and let the person know what its at before hand. Other than that, be sure you have a sufficient amount of gas.

If you are going for an AFC tune, you want to drive there with the gas your run everyday. Hence the reason for tuning for everyday driving. If you wish to, ask them if they can do a race gas setting on a different map. This way, when you go to the track, you can toss some C16 in and be on your way. Be sure to bring your own container of race gas, because some shops don't always have it on hand.

As much as we like to go to shops with helpful people, it is also nice for the person working to deal with a nice and understanding customer. You will save an enormous amount of money by just checking and preparing your vehicle before bringing to a shop to be tuned.
 
Thanks for the advice, well i am sure my car isnt 100% and they will find something, which is what i want them to do, is look at it real quick, their the real mechanics not me, i see you live in milford, i am taking mine to pruven.
 
sweet, i just changed my oil today and i drive 10 min to work, so come fri wont have too much on it.
 
mitsuclipsegsx said:
but wont i be abe to up the boost with 110 octane?
you could up the boost, but what is your point? Its pretty simple, you want to eliminate as many variables as possible from your everyday usage since that is what you are tuning for. If your tuning for 110 octane as an alternate setting for instance, the boost would be turned up to its maximum safe level, which would be higher than your regular gas.

Remember, your not trying to pump out an impressive number, your trying to improve your car. Its kinda lame anyways to be claiming huge hp numbers you obtained from using race gas, when your car cant own up to it on a daily basis.
 
mitsuclipsegsx said:
Thanks for the advice, well i am sure my car isnt 100% and they will find something, which is what i want them to do, is look at it real quick, their the real mechanics not me, i see you live in milford, i am taking mine to pruven.

When is your appointment? I may see you there.

Did you say your just coming in for an AFC Tune? What are your mods if you don't mind me asking.
 
You can make some decent power with pump gas and even a good tune with the SAFC.


Look at my mod list and see my dyno numbers...Only thing holding me back was the SMIC.
 
Being around a dyno on the regular, the best advice I can give you, is prepare to be heartbroken after the first pull. And I'm dead serious. The looks on people's faces when the first pull is like 100hp lower than they were expecting is priceless. Though, usually, by the end of the session they either are where they wanted to be, or know why they are not there. But sometimes the very beginning of the session can be very stressful if the car is way off from where it's supposed to be.

other than that, like was already mentioned, look over your car and make sure everything is good to go, not doing anything stupid, nothing leaking or about to blow up. It sucks having to clean up a dyno when someone dumps oil, tranny fluid, coolant, etc, all down in there.

If you hardly ever hit the track, i'd just do a pump gas tune. If you hit the track every weekend, or very often, you might want to do both.
 
GSX911 said:
When is your appointment? I may see you there.

Did you say your just coming in for an AFC Tune? What are your mods if you don't mind me asking.

This friday at 1,mods are in profile.
 
Well i went yesterday,first run was not tuned i made 300whp then they tuned it and the clutch started to slip so they stopped, i should of know with a act 2100 with stock pressure plate this would happen,but never happened on the road,btw i did get that setup, came when i bought car, SO what should i get, they said get the act 2600 but i heard its more prone to CW, but a lot of people have it.I had a video,and when i got home it was gone :(
 
I looked over your mods list. Congrats on the 300awhp baseline. If that crank pulley does not have a harmonic balancer built into it....ditch it as soon as possible for an OEM crank pulley. I believe I fried 2 yes 2 rod bearings because of a shot harmoic balancer. You've been warned.

-Jaraxle
 
They are built into the stock crank pulley. Replace that pulley with a nice shiny solid lightweight billet one (underdrive), and now you don't have the vibration/shock isolation the factory oem pulley does.

-Jaraxle
 
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