Getting knock at 17psi

[2g spyder eclipse]

My current settup is evo 3 16g @ 17psi, 190lp, HKS SSQV and FMIC 560cc's and afc2 and a aem wideband. Right now I am at 17psi at 11.4-5 AFR and around 6.2k-6.5k I am getting 1 -2 counts of knock. Is it ok for that to happen? Or should I add a click of fuel. Right now my afc settings are 5k-8k -16, Should I just richen it up a tad? I was hoping for 20psi on 93 octane. Is there anyway to achieve this? How else can I reduce knock without the obvious e85 or meth.

 

[Dude McGee]

Do you have any way to check your IDCs? If you can add a click to the afc, at 17 psi, fuel pressure is at 62 psi. I would start to wonder what a 190 flows at that pressure. Plus for 93 octane, I personally keep my afrs between 11.1-11.3 from peak torque on, so in my eyes it could use that extra click.

Oops, fuel pressure would be 60.5 assuming your running stock 2g pressure.

 

[jjw205]

I would add some fuel. On 93 octane, I get knock at anything over 11.3ish...

 

[2g spyder eclipse]

Ok, I'd rather run a tad rich and have more boost then run lean and have knock. I will add a click in there. I can log IDC's on evoscan I believe. I'll take another run tomorrow and see what is going on. 1-2 knock seems acceptable.. But I really want that 20psi tune with 1-2 or 0 knock.

 

[YzRacer119]

Yes but " richer" is "slower" and I'm sure like most of us you want your car to be faster and if your goal is 20 psi then you have to go even richer wich will make you even slower to get there without knock. Your making it slower to add boost to make it faster. That doesn't make much since. So If you take that in to consideration then you need to forget about adding fuel and think about lowering your intake temps and think about what your plugs are doing and you just might get to 20psi on pump gas like I am. If your only at 1 or 2 degrees of knock on 17psi and you don't want to richen it up then there's a couple things I know to do that I know will get you there.

Spray your IC piping with white ceramic paint. I'd kill 2 cans on the piping then make sure you bake it in the oven at home like the can will say. Then wrap your piping with white exhaust wrap. Wrap your exhaust manifold with wrap and buy a 25$ universal t3 turbo blanket for your turbo. Not only will this cost under 60 or 70 bucks but it will drastically lower your intake temps and make your turbo spool faster!!

Although that will probably be enough to solve your problems you could also try gapping your plugs up one or 2 numbers but don't over do it. Or you could devise a air duct system that goes from your front bumper through the hole of your old IC and have it blow right on your air filter.

Kinda crazy ideas but there cheap and at the end of the day they litterally make your car faster and for most of us that's what It's all about.

 

[Dude McGee]

Yes but more air (20 psi) will need more fuel regardless, plus if its knocking at 11.5 and he kicks it to 11.1-11.3 and it solves the problem, it will not be bogged out by fuel. If anything the afc being kicked up, resulting in the ecu seeing more air, could reduce your timing by inherently raising your load, giving you less power, but youd have to be far on the plus side I believe. I run every 3rd tank on 93 oct with my e316 set to 23 with wot afrs around 11.3 and it pulls nicely. Id rather it be slighly rich than dentonate and eat a piston.

What Im wondering is how far the 190 can go. I have no personal experience with that pump. Now I need to know

Also, some people wont change a tune for less than 3 counts of knock due to variables like IAT causing it. Could be a hot day or some such causing the knock. Is your car consistently knocking in the same rpm/load range? Personally, I try to tune all knock out.

 

[YzRacer119]

Not to argue but I have close to the same setup as him and I've recently ran 26 psi on a stock fuel table and stock base fuel pressure. No knock, clean runs, 11.1 afr. I've always tuned as lean as possible while keeping it safe and felt like you shouldn't add fuel if you don't need to. Maybe his car is different but with the same mods except a bigger fuel.pump I've ran higher boost on stock fuel settings no problem but I get away with it cause of my extremely low intake temps. Don't need to pull timing or add fuel.

 

[Dude McGee]

No arguing just info sharing. Plus we need to coversate to get our 30 posts in . If you ran 11.1 with no knock, and hes at 11.5 with knock, why advise against richening it up?

Also without control over timing tables, like in afc tuning, it males the ecu see more/less air, changing load, placing you in a different cell on the stock table is what I was saying. But I imagine it would take a large adjustment. Like if hes minus 16, he could be lowering air seen, reducing load although hes running a higher one, and pushing more timing. Thats how I alwaus understood AFCs at least. But, hey, Ive been wrong before

 

[2g spyder eclipse]

Wow I just learned a lot! My timing was dead on 21* which is good, the damn thing pulls like a raped ape anyways. I just know I can hit 20psi without knock. I know people tune for 7 knock on the button, but I just want 1 or none. By the way, I have a 3" turbo back coming in tomorrow, I guess that could help also considering it will get the hot gas out of there quicker? Also my intercooler has some dings in it, you know rock dings bent some fins.. is it really a big deal? I should probally take it out and clean it with gas also get some of the oil out of it.

 

[bryanwheat]

I'd try one step colder plug with a tight gap.

 

[WES_393]

I agree with everything Dude McGee is saying here.

Your AFR is a tad on the lean side for pump gas. Adding a little fuel isn't going to seriously reduce power, especially if it allows you to run more boost.

Another part of your problem is the SAFC. Like mentioned, it adjusts fuel by altering the airflow signal to the ECU. The less airflow the ECU reads, the more it will advance timing. With pump gas and a small turbo you have to pick one or two: High boost, lean AFR, or high timing.

And lastly, at this point your 560's don't have much left in them. In good condition they can only support about 35 lb/min. That's not even enough to safely run a Small 16g at 20psi, let alone a legit Evo 3 (if that's what you have).

 

[2g spyder eclipse]

I plan on water injection next spring.

 

[YzRacer119]

Yeah I get what your saying mcgee, and yeah a colder plug will definatly do better. I run non projected br8es

 

[white lighting]

I run the br8es gaped at 25.

 

[T is for TURBO]

I plan on water injection next spring.

I would save that money and instead go with ECMLink and larger injectors. You'll get way more benefit.

What are you're intake temps?

 

[reytrix]

I use Br8es with 880 injectors @22psi and barely touches 11.1,,so maybe bigger injectors and a colder plug would help you..

 

[Dude McGee]

I run BPR8ES on as much boost as I can make (about 28 spike tapering to 23ish redline) but have been meaning to switch to non projected. The projected ones can contribute to knock. Theres many threads on here that go into detail about it.

And T is right, save that money for link, the sprayer wont give you near as much benefit.