FWD Daily Power Build Part 1

[aspekt9]

So my NT -> Turbo setup finally gaveway after 25,000 miles @ 13psi. Which I knew was going to happen. I now have an excuse to upgrade and shoot for more power and more reliability. The goal of this build as of right now is ~350 - 400 HP. I've yet to decide on a turbo, advice is welcome. This build will be for a daily driver and weekend road warrior. Here's the outline of my build:

HEAD
---------------

BC Springs & TI Retainers
EPN I/E Valves
Ferrea Valve Seals
Stock Guides
3g Lifters
Kelford 272's


BLOCK
---------------

2g pistons
1g big rods
ACL Race bearings
ARP Headstuds, Rod bolts
MLS Headgasket
BSEK

TURBO / INTAKE
--------------------------

EVO III 16g
PR FMIC
NT TB
3" MAF

DRIVETRAIN / SUSPENSION
------------------------------------

ACT 2600 PP w/ Street disk
XACT Streetlite Flywheel
Prothane Mounts all around


FUEL
---------------

Walbro 255
Fuelab FPR
-6AN SS lines trunk to rear
FIC 650cc injectors


DISASSEMBLY

So let's begin, shall we? I'm hoping to update this regularly, I'm trying to space it out a bit as far as time goes, so major updates might only appear on weekends. So here's the head as it sits:

Remove the cam caps, cams, and put each rocker arm into its own bag so you can keep everything organized, I label my bags [I #1 - #8] and [E #1 - #8]. I for intake, E for exhaust obviously.

Let's begin by removing the valve locks, the tool I use to compress the springs is by Euro Export and it works really well, it allows you to do 8 springs only having to reposition the tool twice. Here's a picture of it:

So now in order to remove the valve locks, we have to compress the spring, so I bolted the tool on to the side of the head I decided to start on and started turning the bolt with a wrench to compress the spring:

Once the spring was compressed far enough to release the locks, I used the magnet that came with the kit to grab the valve locks and pull them out:

Once the locks are removed you can remove the spring and retainer:

Then you can slide the valve out of the guide. I then removed the valve seal with long nosed pliers:

I highly recommend storing each valve, spring & retainer, locks, rocker arms, and lifters in their own designated baggie:

Here's a picture of the head with just the guide and the valve seal:

Now for the good stuff, here's the new parts going in:

Head is off to the machine shop this weekend, will update when it returns


PS: Here's a video of the removal, so you can see the steps in action:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTIPEUfWJd0

 

[sKeeT007]

I have a PTE-50 trim bb, and I wouldn't go any otherway, It's the perfect turbo for what your lookin to do with your car. There's alot in the tech articles about this turbo, and if intrested look up, you won't go wrong promise, checkout what I have done to my gsx if intrested, I'm the same as you, daily driver besides winters and a weekend warrior.

 

[400hp93talon]

FREAKIN SWEET....MY block has 1g rods and 2g pistons, they are pretty strong!!

 

[aspekt9]

@sKeeT007 - Thanks for the info on the PTE-50 trim, I was looking at some of the specs on it, and indeed it does look pretty good for what I want to do, just have to save up the funds now haha.

@400hp93talon - How do you like them so far? How much power are you pushing with them? How many miles have you put on them and how's compression?


Minor update: the head is at the machine shop I'll be getting it back next week, then the block goes in for machining. I'll post a major update when it comes back.

 

[97Boosted]

if you go with that 50 trim it will be hard to keep from spinning, youll need an expensive LSD, im FWD like you with a big16g, and i spin in 2ndd not even under full boost. just food for thought