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Fuel Gauge Problems?

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brad98rs

15+ Year Contributor
134
2
Oct 12, 2004
orlando, Florida
After i fill my car up it takes like 20 minutes for it to read full on my gauge, and it doesn't go back down right. It will be at 1/2 a tank then jump to below a 1/4 of a tank then slowly rise back up a little. I never know exactly how much gas i have. Is this a common problem and how might I fix it? :dsm:
 
brad98rs said:
After i fill my car up it takes like 20 minutes for it to read full on my gauge, and it doesn't go back down right. It will be at 1/2 a tank then jump to below a 1/4 of a tank then slowly rise back up a little. I never know exactly how much gas i have. Is this a common problem and how might I fix it? :dsm:

I would check out your float in the tank sending unit. It could be old and gettin stuck
 
Is it possible for it to just be the gauge. Even when the gauge is indicating that its empty or right about empty, theres still no sign of a gas light even attempting to come on. :confused: :dsm:
 
brad98rs said:
Is it possible for it to just be the gauge. Even when the gauge is indicating that its empty or right about empty, theres still no sign of a gas light even attempting to come on. :confused: :dsm:


It is possible. Im not completely sure on how to check the gauge besides just checkin to make sure the wires arent cracked or broken going to it.
 
It's very unlikely it's your gauge itself but you can test it by disconnecting the yellow wire at the sender unit and grounding it while the ignition sw is in the ON position. Gauge should read full. With wire disconnected it should read empty. The sender is far more likely the culprit and can be tested by measuring it's resistance: 4 ohms when in full position, 112 ohms in empty, and changes smoothly in between.
 
Here's a writeup on flakey gas gauges and what can be done: http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Cockpit/6144/DSM_Home/2G_Fix_It_Center/flakey_gas_guage.html

As far as testing the low level light, the manual schematics don't show it for some reason but it must be connected to the sender's thermistor thru a wire (pin 1) opposite the yellow wire (pin 3) on the 3 pin connector to the sender (the middle black wire (pin 2) is ground). The manual does show testing the thermistor on this pin so this wire must go to the light. Unplug the connector, connect pin 1 to pin 2 and the light should go on when key is ON. If it doesn't, your thermistor is probably bad. PM me for instructions on how to test it.
 
What I would do is fill up some gas in a container, then fill the car up and reset your trip odometer. Drive till ya die. :) Then you'll know EXACTLY how far you can go before you run out of fuel.
 
ddavisaf said:
What I would do is fill up some gas in a container, then fill the car up and reset your trip odometer. Drive till ya die. :) Then you'll know EXACTLY how far you can go before you run out of fuel.

Not exactly as you say. It would give you an idea of around town driving. Drive it hard and the MPG goes to hell real quick.

I would say it's a stuck/sticking float. Where the float is, is beyond me, it's not anywhere near the fuel pump in my car, that is for sure.
 
My fuel gauge reads incorrectly! Is there a fix?
Search for this topic now!

This is largely a 2G problem, where the fuel gauge sender unit has been knocked out of position. This often happens when the dealer does the gas tank recall on the car.

2G owners should look into getting the sender unit fixed. If that doesn't happen, it can be fixed using Jeff Brinkerhoff's $1.49 Gauge Fixer.

There ya go. Have fun.
 
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