The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support ExtremePSI

FREE balance shaft elimination

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Here's what you need:
Service Manual (you should have this already)
Tap & Die kit
Side Grinder (Mine is 4.5") & cutoff wheel w/grinder stand
Table Grinder (or grinding wheels for the side grinder)
Vice
Tube of locktite
Front case gasket set
8mmx1.25mm bolt, ~1.25" long.

You can do this with the engine in the car, but it's easier with the engine out of the car.
Remove the front case from the car per service manual instructions. take the oil pump apart from the back side and remove the gear w/the balance shaft attached. Put the shaft in the vice and break loose the bolt holding the oil pump gear on. One removed, take an 8mmx1.25mm tap and run it down the hole you removed the oil pump bolt from. Continue downwards until you can't tap any farther. you should be well below the oiling holes in the shaft now. Run the tap up & down the hole 3 or 4 times to ensure a good tap. Now clean all of the 3 in 1 oil (or whatever you used to lubricate the tap) out of the hole..

Lay the balance shaft on the grinder stand. Measure 1.5" down from the oil pump end of the shaft. it should end in a divet behind the polished surface. Using the grinder w/cutoff wheel, cut the shaft off at your mark. the finished product should only be 1.5" long. Remove it from the stand, and use the bench grinder or the grinding wheel to level out cut surface and remove any sharp edges. Now blow out the newly created "stubby shaft" with an air compressor or similar to get the slag and dust out of it. Put the shaft back in the vice, being careful not to scar the polished surface. now, position the oil pump gear on the shaft (be SURE the flat side of the gear is DOWN. The lip has to face up or your gear won't seat in the pump properly), and put locktite on your 1.25" bolt. Thread it into the shaft through the oil pump gear. Once it's down all the way it shoiuld be close to coming out the back side of the stubby shaft, effectively blocking off the oil passage through the shaft. Put your oil pump back together and color it done.

Now, for the front shaft - You can either leave it in, use the freeze plug/JB Weld trick, or use my method. Remove the front shaft from the block, and per VFAQ, pop out the front & rear bearings and rotate them so the oiling holes don't line up. If you use my mehod, put the front shaft on the grinder stand and cut it off directly behind the first bearing surface. Carefully reinstall in block. Replace ALL gaskets and seals on the front case, and reinstall. Be careful about installing it over the cutoff front shaft. Reinstall the front balance shaft sprocket and it's effectively blocked off. Reassemble the engine as per service manual instructions. You've now eliminated your balance shafts, and not spent a dime.

If you worry for some unknown reason about the screw backing out of the rear shaft, spot weld the bad boy in place, or just weld the rear of the shaft shut so the oil passage no longer exists.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top