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fiberglass

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Ok I dont know what tensile strength means..( I am from seden..we dont use that word much ya know*LOL* but I se what ya mean in a way. If its as astrong as FG or not I cannot say since I havent tried anything of the materials you say is good...I am however building a new setup this winter so I will have to see what I can dig up then.... ;-)

I am sure alot of other methods can be used..and to return to the original post..I still think alot of the shops out here uses FG for custom installs..I really do eventhough some uses other stuff as well I am sure.

So with that said..I leave this thread with a happy smile and hope no hard feelings occured :)

Peace/Roger
 
Overall box flex has the most effect on acoustics.I can for a fact tell you that most shops(when time and money come in) DO NOT actual FG mat.I not trying to get upset about this stuff, but I come here to learn(when possible) and spread experience(when possible) and too many "opinions" come into play.You can make enclosures out of fiberglass, but it can be done in a fraction of the time(with same results) without fiberglass.I guess this is just a rant but...Alarms/remote starts for example.I've been doing them since the remotes were garage door opener size(with telescoping 12 inch antennas) seriousy up to 7 or 8 a day for years(just for kicks I looked on my computer and added invoices for prior years, and I did over 2000 before I got bored of counting) more than half for dealerships, with only a handful of problems(so I get the idea I am doing something right) and no matter where I am or who I'm talking to there is always a few people(who did one or two) that tell me I'm wrong about something.
 
from all your expierience, what would you say is the easiest material to work with? and do youhave any photos of final products?

im not tryin to be a 8===D, im seriously asking
 
would also like to know how many layers you put on of each product and how the rigidity is being made?I am making a new setup this iwnter and want to get input from all kinds of places:)
 
Originally posted by LightningGSX
Overall box flex has the most effect on acoustics.I can for a fact tell you that most shops(when time and money come in) DO NOT actual FG mat.I not trying to get upset about this stuff, but I come here to learn(when possible) and spread experience(when possible) and too many "opinions" come into play.You can make enclosures out of fiberglass, but it can be done in a fraction of the time(with same results) without fiberglass.I guess this is just a rant but...Alarms/remote starts for example.I've been doing them since the remotes were garage door opener size(with telescoping 12 inch antennas) seriousy up to 7 or 8 a day for years(just for kicks I looked on my computer and added invoices for prior years, and I did over 2000 before I got bored of counting) more than half for dealerships, with only a handful of problems(so I get the idea I am doing something right) and no matter where I am or who I'm talking to there is always a few people(who did one or two) that tell me I'm wrong about something.

Thats awesome that you have been working on alarms and things that long. I evny you for that. Maybe you can help me get my alarm/remote start working right, since the TT has been a hassle with my alarm setup.

On the fiberglass issue, I think its gotten blown up since my last post a few days ago. Maybe other shops do things a different way than the shops that I learned from and/or worked with. We definitely used other materials all the time, especially fleece and grill cloth, but after the intial form was made with these we layed layers of fiberglass after. For smaller things, like the tweeter pods I did for my eclipse, I used one layer of felt for the form. Like, I said earlier, maybe thats just our way of doing it.

I actaully am really interested in knowing how many layers, of fleece or whatever other material, you use will give the rigidity needed for 12" or 15" speaker enclosures. It would be awesome to learn something new.

Thanks for all the info that has arose from this debate and good luck to the originator of this thread with your boxes.

Jester
 
Originally posted by EuroGSTSpyder
I am sure alot of other methods can be used..and to return to the original post..I still think alot of the shops out here uses FG for custom installs..I really do eventhough some uses other stuff as well I am sure.
Peace/Roger

let me ask... does anyone really know what the original post was about?? Not that and i bet you have to go back and look. Anyway, i did find out what i needed to know
 
so, we have argued and have accomplished................ Nothing!!! All we have is alot of people saying that installers do use fiberglass and one that says that installers dont. I called three different intallers and they all say that they use fiberglass to build custom boxes, and other things. They may not use fiberglass mat to build the things but they do fiberglass. They may use other materials for mat (fleace, sweatshirt, normal cloth, ect). So I would say that you are wrong because the method that the installers said was "fiberglass."

Laterz
 
This is getting pretty stupid but, if they don't use fiberglass mat, its not fiberglass(plain and simple).Just because they call it fiberglass doesn't mean it is.Anyway Ive never tried fleece but its seems like a good idea.Ideally you want your actual sub box made from MDF(all sides) and make cover from "fiberglass" on the outside to blend it into the interior.No matter what you use or how many layers(within reason) "fiberglass" will flex and you will lose sound output.If you must have a box side made of "fiberglass" try to make that side against interior metal(or some MDF) and "fiberglass" over it.In that case the metal becomes part of the box(less flex) and the "fiberglass" will seal the rest of the wood box to it.If your "fiberglass" work is fairly strong the flex won't make a huge difference, but I am a perfectionist when it comes to sound efficiency and quality.Usually unnoticed details like that can make a 400 watt system sound like a 1000 watt system.
 
Best advice that I can give someone who is starting off with glassing is PATIENCE. Don't try to put 7 layers on all at once or else it will sag and have a puddle of resin at the bottom. Make sure you have great ventilation or you will fly higher than a kite. Make sure you minimize air bubbles because it will take away from the overall strength. Always use latex gloves or else everything you touch will stick to you.
 
Originally posted by jrivard00
Make sure you have great ventilation or you will fly higher than a kite......Always use latex gloves or else everything you touch will stick to you.

LOL... I've made both of those mistakes a few times... actually I always end up with some resin on me somehow.
 
I always end up with some resin in an odd place(like my elbow or back of my shoulder) and don't notice it until I get it on something.
 
Man, this thread lost direction too many times.

I tend to disagree with most of you.

A fiberglass enclosure will be STRONGER than anything you could build out of wood products. The key is core material. As for simplicity, if you used a +/-45 degree weave fabric and a 1/2 foam core you could make a simple box and then use vacuum bagging to cure it. It'd take you 3 hours and you'd be done. That'd be for a mediocre surface finish. Longer for a very smooth finish.

Below is a shot of a carbon fiber/polystyrene foam chassis our solar car team built for ForumulaSun00 and ASC2001. It weighed 63 lbs. and could hold the weight of your car on it. Very stiff, very light. But, it's not entirely the carbon fiber that gives it strength. The thickness of the core material increases it's bending stiffness.

Take your time and do some research and you can make a fiberglass enclosure that meets your needs.

-DaimlerChrysler Engineer :dsm: :laser:
 

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