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engine reving terribly slow no power at all.

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10psi_Talon

Probationary Member
3
0
Apr 13, 2012
Grants Pass, Oregon
breif history: have a 96 talon es with turbo swap and have gotten familiar with 420a, other day picked up a 98 gst spyder for 750 bucks and i have been waiting to join the 4g63 fam so i couldnt let it pass. it had terrible acceleration and got up to running temp very quickly. i assumed that the cat was plugged because on test drive it was rough but no CEL. so i pulled the trigger and bought it. i checked the cat and it is not plugged. there is a 3" cat back the the previous owner put on it but cat was not the problem so i went to fuel. i changed the fuel filter and cleaned the rail and the injectors the best i could. i also have taken off the charge piping and tried to inspect them for holes but i could not find any thing. i do hear what i belive is an exagsust leak from the head sometimes. the car has 170k and previous owner did "tune up" and that is when i belive the trouble began. i found on the coil pack that cyliders 2 and 3 were backwards so i swiched those still no fix. i have a video that i will link to down below of the issue, but basicly the car has very little power, you can not accelerate after letting out the clutch, you could hold the pedal to the floor and the rpms will slowly climb and the boost gauge on dash will rise very quickly to full boost. BOV is working i can hear it but the car has no power unless i back off throttle and get out of boost and it likes that much better but still will not go past 5k rpm. help please new to the mitsubishi side and i really want to get this thing on the road.[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uu0Y84SyWhs&feature=youtube_gdata_player]98 gst running terrible acceleration - YouTube[/ame]
 
Joel thanks for the quick response and the links to the information. I will most definaltly do a boost leak test if you feel it will help. I just want to mention that the reason I didnt do that in the first place was because the behavior of the stock boost gauge led me to belive that it didnt have a problem making or holding boost. any thoughts?
 
Joel thanks for the quick response and the links to the information. I will most definaltly do a boost leak test if you feel it will help. I just want to mention that the reason I didnt do that in the first place was because the behavior of the stock boost gauge led me to belive that it didnt have a problem making or holding boost. any thoughts?

The stock boost gauge is based off of maf readings not actual boost pressure. I.e. It's a pos.

Example:

Your pulling in enough air to create said boost so it thinks "Hey, we're making boost" but in reality there is no pressure and it's going out every seam in the IC piping.

Joel
 
Boost leak test, compression test, check plugs wires timing. Just because the po sead that they did it don't believe everything tell you see it first hand. Put a scan tool on for hidden cel codes. Just my thaught.
 
So I have come up with a few more questions. Let me just say that i am currently trying to make the boost leak detector but here goes. So i was cleaning the engine bay today and i had to run the engine to dry out the motor completely and i noticed that when i give it throttle both of the charge pipes into and out of the the intercooler are swelling in size. yes the diameter actually increases in size, is this normal? wouldnt this rule out any boost leak possibilities or could this be the problem? i also noticed that at WOT the car really struggles to get past 5k RPM and at lesser of a throttle it gets past 5k to about 7k alot easier but will not reach redline and is still extremly lethargic. also i was woundering even though i do not have an illuminated CEL could there still be codes that i should try to pull that may be stored? i did take off the upper timing belt cover to inspect that the cams had not jumped time and they look pretty good. but i did notice that it has a mitsu timiing belt which i can only assume is the original and the car is approaching 172k so that will need to be replaced yesterday:toobad: anyway i have now checked the fuel pump, cleaned the injectors and the fuel rail and have replaced the fuel filter. i hope that i have eliminated fuel from the problem area but i guess i still need to check compression, timing, leaks?? just woundered if someone had the problem of their engine not being able to rev past 5k and what their fix was dying to drive this thing. thanks in advance for the help guys.
 
I am having the same issue, Only difference is I cannot make it past 30 mph, and will die on hills. I'll let you know if I find anything out and let you know for similarity sake.
 
pull the spark plugs! what brand are they? are they platinum plugs? what are the numbers on the plugs? you only want NGK spark plugs. BPR6es, or BPR7es. check your firing order on the plugs to make sure they are correct!


pull off the intake pipe off the turbo the one coming from the air filter. put your fingers in the inlet of the turbo and try spinning the wheel inside. see if it turns. it should turn easily. if it doesnt spin, then the turbo is blown. if it spins, then try wiggling it side to side. if it goes left to right alot, then the turbo is blown. if there is no sign that it is blown, then take off the lower hose on the intercooler and see if there is alot of oil in it. if there is, then the turbo is blown.

also, pull off the upper intercooler hose and look at the intercooler and see if there is alot of holes in the aluminum, if there is, then the intercooler has major boost leaks. check all intercooler hoses to make sure they are on and tight.

also check to make sure the wastegate actuator is hooked up to the flapper on the turbo for the wastegate.
 
Check the MAF. if its plugged and installed correctly, unplug it drive the car and see how it performs. if it still behaves the same way then you might have a bad MAF sensor. also check to see if the timing is on point....
 
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