2G Empty Clutch Reservoir, Possible air in cylinder

[gholam]

I have a 2G DSM that was abused by family members before I got it. I'm going through and replacing all of the fluids, because I have no idea when the last time they were changed was... the car hasn't been used in over 4 years. When I got it, the clutch reservoir was completely empty. I've never dealt with this before... This isn't my first manual, but it's the first manual I've owned that I've needed to do any work on at all outside of the norm, and it's extensive.
I'm seeing all of this info about not allowing air in when you're bleeding the cylinders, but I'm fairly certain air has already gotten in. How do I check? The clutch DOES engage (at the floor), so I imagine there is a little fluid in the cylinders. Since I wanted to bleed the old stuff out anyways, will that work to get all the air out? If not, what do I do in this scenario?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Most likely it had a leak somewhere, slave cylinder, master cylinder or a line. You can put fluid in it, bleed the system to find the leak and replace what needs to be replaced. I think you’re confused about “air in the system”. It’s basically a hydraulic system that forces the clutch to disengage. If there is air in the system (mixed with fluid) it’s compressing air instead of fluid so the slave rod will not fully extend.

FYI - Air can be compressed, not so much for brake fluid.

 

[pauleyman]

I have a 2G DSM that was abused by family members before I got it. I'm going through and replacing all of the fluids, because I have no idea when the last time they were changed was... the car hasn't been used in over 4 years. When I got it, the clutch reservoir was completely empty. I've never dealt with this before... This isn't my first manual, but it's the first manual I've owned that I've needed to do any work on at all outside of the norm, and it's extensive.
I'm seeing all of this info about not allowing air in when you're bleeding the cylinders, but I'm fairly certain air has already gotten in. How do I check? The clutch DOES engage (at the floor), so I imagine there is a little fluid in the cylinders. Since I wanted to bleed the old stuff out anyways, will that work to get all the air out? If not, what do I do in this scenario?

Take a closer look. The reservoir may be "empty" but sometimes you just can't see that last little bit. Given that the clutch still tries to work that's hopeful. I would fill it and bleed it. Yes this will likely take care of any problems.....for now. Since fluid was down its leaking. You will need to find and address that leak or just keep repeating your problem

 

[jpmxrider489]

Definitely need to fill. Fluid just doesnt disappear. If you have leaks let us know. If you decide to bleed it after having no leaks, the process is kinda tedious with one person.

Also if it dry, the fluid accumulator that's bolted to the transmission can take a while to get bled completely. If you plan on modifying the car, this would be a good time to delete that part and run a steel braided line all the way from the master to the slave cylinder. Just find for thought.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Bleeding it by yourself is easy. You either need a vacuum bleeder or a brake pedal depressor. Took me only 15 minutes to get mine fully bled with the vacuum bleeder. The next day I went a couple more rounds with my depressor just to ensure all the air was out.

Also I want to point out that you own a GS. Not a GST. Your car does not have a turbocharger.

 

[pauleyman]

Definitely need to fill. Fluid just doesnt disappear. If you have leaks let us know. If you decide to bleed it after having no leaks, the process is kinda tedious with one person.

Also if it dry, the fluid accumulator that's bolted to the transmission can take a while to get bled completely. If you plan on modifying the car, this would be a good time to delete that part and run a steel braided line all the way from the master to the slave cylinder. Just find for thought.

Why do people run a line all the way to the master? I see no reason for this. I only replace the short rubber line. Hydraulically speaking the hardline is fine if it's not leaking and there is no advantage to replacing it.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

The hardlines gets kinked quite easily if you bend it. A braided line offers the flexibility and flow.

 

[jpmxrider489]

why do people run a line all the way to the master? I see no reason for this. I only replace the short rubber line. Hydraulically speaking the hardline is find and there is no advantage to replacing it.

That's a good question. I mainly did it avoid the possibility of rust and kinks on the hard lines. Plus, I absolutely hate dealing with the flared fittings on lines. I redid my firewall and wanted a cleaner look. Getting a braided line doesn't eliminate the possibility of rust but it adds the flexibility of routing a line where you want and gives a cleaner look. Its more bulletproof in my opinion. That's why I choose to run it all the way. However, just eliminating the soft rubber line is a benefit. Also deleting the fluid accumulator worked best for my old clutch setup. (I'm now a auto).

 

[pauleyman]

The hardlines gets kinked quite easily if you bend it. A braided line offers the flexibility and flow.

Thats true. Even so I've done more than 50 tranny drops and never bent one. I just eliminate the accumulator on a 2g and run braided from there. I can totally see that hardline getting mangled in the last few feet if you're not careful

 

[gholam]

Ok, update. I poured fluid into the reservoir, and it immediately leaked out at the bottom of the plastic piece that connects to the top of the master cylinder. I then noticed that the clip that holds it on is broken. I tried zip ties as a band aid until I could get a new clip, but even cranking them as tight as I could, it didn't hold it on. Is there usually some sort of seal/glue there? See pics for details. Also, I'm going to look for the part number for the clip but if anyone has it, that'd be appreciated.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[pauleyman]

Put a hose clamp on it. OEM has a wire hose clamp. worm hose clamp will likely work ok also

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

There wasn't any glue or sealant from the factory. You shouldn't need any either, but a thin layer of liquid teflon wouldn't hurt just in case there are any small scratches or cracks.