KnightHawk434th
15+ Year Contributor
- 44
- 1
- Mar 7, 2007
-
Plymouth,
Indiana
I put this same post in 2GNT and going to in DSMTalk and compare answers between all of them. I went through the searches and didn't find anything like my problem so here is my situation...
Well I spent the last 2 hours searching and found a few threads that have my symptoms, but all of their fixes are ones I've tried. Well here is the scoop with my car...
I get it running again after installing a new reman starter, brand new CAS, and a brand new upstream o2 sensor, and then I started having problems with my electrical system. The car will crank, and start up fine, and soon as it starts up, my oil pressure light and CEL come on. The CEL is from my EGR being removed, but not sure what other codes it is throwing since I can't seem to keep my car running long enough to get it to advance to run the codes (and they won't let you take it home, because too many dumbasses in town keep breaking it...running it over, busting pins etc). After my car is running for about a minute or 2, the battery light comes on, but yet the car still runs fine (for a limited time).
I drive around town, with my buddy who has an F-150 following me incase I need a tow or something, to see if I can come up with some troubleshooting, and after driving around for around 30 mins on a fully charged battery, my car begins to chug, my acceleration is sluggish, my SRS light comes on and then my tach goes out, my radio cuts out and flickers uncontrollably, my speedometer stops working, my 4-ways blink right then left, my brakes illuminate right then left and then my car chugs it's way to the point where the engine kills itself...then won't even crank over.
I had a similar problem the other day, so i replaced the alternator with a reman one today and got a brand new wal-mart battery. Still same problem. Checked in my console for loose wires around the turn signal control...none. Replaced my wire nuts used to splice my underglow (that has not been hooked up to the battery at all when this is happening) with splicing insulators, pulled fuses under my steering wheel (found my turn signal fuse blown beyond belief (and replaced it)...the last dumbass that worked on it overloaded the socket...15A fuse in a 10A socket), pulled my fuses in the engine bay (found nothing) and meanwhile my starter won't even crank anymore.
I got to talking with my neighbor and my buddy and we've come up with a small list of possibilities.
1) Faulty alternator? (possible...)
2) Missing ground (only know of three...intake, starter and the chassis ground going to the battery...there more?)
3) Bare wires hitting somewhere? (no luck finding any though)
4) Short in the wiring harness somewhere...
With my symptoms, what else besides the above 4 could it possibly be? We are going to take the alternator back tomorrow and have it tested at advance and maybe get another (since it has a lifetime warrenty) and see if that fixes it...and if it does, we know the alternator i got was faulty. But in the event that it isn't, what else could it be?
-Ben
Well I spent the last 2 hours searching and found a few threads that have my symptoms, but all of their fixes are ones I've tried. Well here is the scoop with my car...
I get it running again after installing a new reman starter, brand new CAS, and a brand new upstream o2 sensor, and then I started having problems with my electrical system. The car will crank, and start up fine, and soon as it starts up, my oil pressure light and CEL come on. The CEL is from my EGR being removed, but not sure what other codes it is throwing since I can't seem to keep my car running long enough to get it to advance to run the codes (and they won't let you take it home, because too many dumbasses in town keep breaking it...running it over, busting pins etc). After my car is running for about a minute or 2, the battery light comes on, but yet the car still runs fine (for a limited time).
I drive around town, with my buddy who has an F-150 following me incase I need a tow or something, to see if I can come up with some troubleshooting, and after driving around for around 30 mins on a fully charged battery, my car begins to chug, my acceleration is sluggish, my SRS light comes on and then my tach goes out, my radio cuts out and flickers uncontrollably, my speedometer stops working, my 4-ways blink right then left, my brakes illuminate right then left and then my car chugs it's way to the point where the engine kills itself...then won't even crank over.
I had a similar problem the other day, so i replaced the alternator with a reman one today and got a brand new wal-mart battery. Still same problem. Checked in my console for loose wires around the turn signal control...none. Replaced my wire nuts used to splice my underglow (that has not been hooked up to the battery at all when this is happening) with splicing insulators, pulled fuses under my steering wheel (found my turn signal fuse blown beyond belief (and replaced it)...the last dumbass that worked on it overloaded the socket...15A fuse in a 10A socket), pulled my fuses in the engine bay (found nothing) and meanwhile my starter won't even crank anymore.
I got to talking with my neighbor and my buddy and we've come up with a small list of possibilities.
1) Faulty alternator? (possible...)
2) Missing ground (only know of three...intake, starter and the chassis ground going to the battery...there more?)
3) Bare wires hitting somewhere? (no luck finding any though)
4) Short in the wiring harness somewhere...
With my symptoms, what else besides the above 4 could it possibly be? We are going to take the alternator back tomorrow and have it tested at advance and maybe get another (since it has a lifetime warrenty) and see if that fixes it...and if it does, we know the alternator i got was faulty. But in the event that it isn't, what else could it be?
-Ben
