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El Paso

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Its a black car. The one that I was told it had the turbo removed but in the end it never had one
 
hey guys im trying to mount my engine on a stand i got from harbor freight and was wondering if any one had any idea on what bLOLts to use and where to mount it.... im kinda confused text me at 832 622 5887

You mount it on the four transmission bolt holes, I believe you can use two of the bolts Just take the bolts to any hardware store and get the right thread but get them a little longer to go through the engine stand bracket and still screw into the block. I have two engines on stands, I can take a picture when I get home unfortunately that wont be till 6 tonight.
 
Need help my 90 gs is smokin kinda bad it has new plugs good gas new cat and a recent oil change any suggestion on what I can do because it won't pass inspection. Or any number to shops that can help it pass
 
Based off your mod list the car is converted to a N/T. Is this still the case?
Next check to make sure you're not burning any fluids off. As well make sure that fluids aren't being mixed (ie water in the oil or oil in the water). If any are dropping then I'd start looking in that direction Valve seals, rings and turbo shaft seals (if it's still on) come to mind for oil. A head gasket is likely if your losing coolant. Let us know and we can tell where to start looking from there.
 
Based off your mod list the car is converted to a N/T. Is this still the case?
Next check to make sure you're not burning any fluids off. As well make sure that fluids aren't being mixed (ie water in the oil or oil in the water). If any are dropping then I'd start looking in that direction Valve seals, rings and turbo shaft seals (if it's still on) come to mind for oil. A head gasket is likely if your losing coolant. Let us know and we can tell where to start looking from there.

It turned out to never be a turbo model, (vin confirmed)
 
Well if you're not losing coolant I'd be temped to think either oil or fuel. If you hold your hand on the back of the tail pipe and it's bad as you say it is you should be able to smell what it is and go from there. Being a non turbo there's not too much that can burn oil, the only things that come to mind are bad valve seals or rings like I said before. Valve seals are easy you're basically out a head gasket set and a timing belt change. Rings well you can figure out that part. If it's fuel making it run that rich, which the 1G's are notoriously rich running already, I'd look for something that's keeping you out of closed loop operation and try to narrow it down from there.
 
Ok thanks I know for sure it that has a new timing belt. I thinkin maybe the seals bc it did overheat because the cat was clogged. I already got that fixed though
 
The wet compression it will be the easiest to perform, rent a compression test tool at autozone and then take off all your plug wires and plugs put your tester on every spark plug hole one by one and turn your key so the engine turn and will make compression and you can read every compression on every cylinder but make sure your fuel pump is disconnected and also every time you turn your key step on the gas pedal all the way in so the intake can take all the air it needs. That was the dry test, now for the wet test you will need to put oil in every cylinder before you put your compression tester. Before you do the dry test make sure you take notes on how much compression you got on every cylinder and also make sure you battery is good so it wont die on you when you are doing this test because it will give you false readings. Now after the dry test you will need to pour oil in every cylinder, about one oz of oil. This test will tell you which piston rings are bad, if the compression goes up on any of the cylinders that will be you bad piston rings. Post some of the dry test numbers and wet test numbers and i will let you know which one is the bad piston rings.

The leak down test its a little more complicated, I will recommended to pay a mechanic to do this type of test for you.
 
I just did the leakdown test to my gsx. It turned out been leaking a lot more than my first test.

On my first test I was at 15% or less in all 4 cylinders. Then after a whole lot of pulls of tuning time, it was time to do another test.

It turned out that my leakage varied from 30-50% or in the moderate stage.

The leakage was noticeable on the adjacent cylinders from the one tested, is this a sign of bad head gasket. The car is driveable but doesn't like above 22psi. The map sensor shows loss of about 10psi on WOT.

Also, My idles sucks at times or when down shifting to a stop sign as I go to neutral it dies.

Is this a sign of head gasket? Should I change it? Or can I finish off a tune with it like that since its in the moderate stage?

My compression on the cilnders are 160 except for #3 Is at 150ish. Gst2012gsx helped me with the compression test.
 
Thank you GST2012GSX very well explained. Definitely post the numbers up so we can see what's going on.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc[/ame]

915DSM:
This guy is pretty good at explaining the leakdown test. Maybe if you pull the plug next to the other cylinder you might get some noise indicating a bad HG. However, when I look at the compression test it doesn't toss out any obvious hey look at me HG signs. Two things I'd look at right off. For the stalling is the BOV being recirculated with the Evo MAF? The only two systems that can compensate for the drop in airflow that quick are a GM MAF and speed density, as the air is measured after the BOV. The second and it's kinda iffy is the CX racing intercooler for the psi drop. I'm not knocking it, but it seems almost questionable as if the IAT's are creeping up and dropping off airflow, Like I said iffy.
 
Hhmmm...

I need to update my profile, im running SD already. The plugs are all off when performing the leakdown test.

My blts are very good, with exception of a very small leak on ic pipe that was welded.

So probable hg is most likely?



Thank you GST2012GSX very well explained. Definitely post the numbers up so we can see what's going on.

How To Perform A Leak Down Test - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube

915DSM:
This guy is pretty good at explaining the leakdown test. Maybe if you pull the plug next to the other cylinder you might get some noise indicating a bad HG. However, when I look at the compression test it doesn't toss out any obvious hey look at me HG signs. Two things I'd look at right off. For the stalling is the BOV being recirculated with the Evo MAF? The only two systems that can compensate for the drop in airflow that quick are a GM MAF and speed density, as the air is measured after the BOV. The second and it's kinda iffy is the CX racing intercooler for the psi drop. I'm not knocking it, but it seems almost questionable as if the IAT's are creeping up and dropping off airflow, Like I said iffy.
 
If you're running a composite, it almost becomes a throw parts at a problem solution, "sure take it off, measure it, and pop another gasket on" solution. And even though my personal record for taking a 4G63 head off in an hour is good it's painful for naught.
 
Thanks for your time and advice.
I have the cometic arps. I will go with a composite as its proven to stand above 500hps. I was having issues with thermostat and the car overheated pretty bad once. That is probable cause to my problem. The other thing I noticed is that when I replaced the valve cover, I retorqued the arps to 90lbs. As I torqued one it didn't feel as tight of a twist, but I can be wrong. I guess pulling it would be the starters to finding the root cause.


Thanks again.

If you're running a composite, it almost becomes a throw parts at a problem solution, "sure take it off, measure it, and pop another gasket on" solution. And even though my personal record for taking a 4G63 head off in an hour is good it's painful for naught.
 
Is this a sign of head gasket? Should I change it? Or can I finish off a tune with it like that since its in the moderate stage?

The purpose of a leak down test is so you dont have to ask this question or take a shot in the dark. While doing the test, with your oil cap and rad cap off listen/watch for bubbles. If you see bubbles in rad fill neck, or hear bubbles from your oil cap fill, then your head gasket is bad. If you just hear air coming out of the oil cap but no bubbling then thats your rings.
 
This case is non of what you say. If you read my first post, I mentioned its leaking adjacent to the cylinder been tested, not elsewhere.
But thanks anyway.


The purpose of a leak down test is so you dont have to ask this question or take a shot in the dark. While doing the test, with your oil cap and rad cap off listen/watch for bubbles. If you see bubbles in rad fill neck, or hear bubbles from your oil cap fill, then your head gasket is bad. If you just hear air coming out of the oil cap but no bubbling then thats your rings.

Hey this is for everyone interested on seeing a fellow Dsmer I know who will take his 1g tonight to the track.

Its a 1g N/T converted to turbo. He has some good mods and is shooting for low 13s.

Anyone wanna go?? we will head over there around 8:30.
 
This case is non of what you say. If you read my first post, I mentioned its leaking adjacent to the cylinder been tested, not elsewhere.
But thanks anyway.




Hey this is for everyone interested on seeing a fellow Dsmer I know who will take his 1g tonight to the track.

Its a 1g N/T converted to turbo. He has some good mods and is shooting for low 13s.

Anyone wanna go?? we will head over there around 8:30.


SO it would still be the head gasket if your compressing one cly and it is leaking out the other. If that is what you mean.

And who's that? Only converted one I have seen here is Nate's.
 
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