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xX-ProudDSM-Xx

10+ Year Contributor
96
0
Jul 16, 2011
Pomona, California
Does anyone live close to Pomona, California?? I just need some help on identifying some things on my car. Hopefully someone can come and take a look at it.I'm 17 years old so don't know what kind of modifications I have other than the cam,BOV,injen air intake,and NGK plugs and wires. I have a 97 GST.
 
I see the nut on the left post for sure, can't see the right one but if he is missing the nuts it would shake like a mo-***
looks like a well maintained car, when do we get to see more pics? Also your profile says you have a NT not turbo...

My first car was a 89 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe. Supercharged and manual, poo brown, and I got it in 95 I think and at the time my grandma's tenant died and the property went to my grandma, which included this T-Bird. The car only ever drove from the carport to the liquor store so it had 3500 miles on it. My dad flew down to Phoenix and drove it back home in North Pole, Alaska. The trip up to Alaska doubled the mileage on the car so I got it in 95 with 7000 miles. I drove the tires off that car. I got in so much trouble when My parents put the first set of tires on only the rears after 1month of having the car! Good times, and I can tell you that if you go fast enough your car will skip on water..LOL
 
I see the nut on the left post for sure, can't see the right one but if he is missing the nuts it would shake like a mo-***
looks like a well maintained car, when do we get to see more pics? Also your profile says you have a NT not turbo...

My first car was a 89 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe. Supercharged and manual, poo brown, and I got it in 95 I think and at the time my grandma's tenant died and the property went to my grandma, which included this T-Bird. The car only ever drove from the carport to the liquor store so it had 3500 miles on it. My dad flew down to Phoenix and drove it back home in North Pole, Alaska. The trip up to Alaska doubled the mileage on the car so I got it in 95 with 7000 miles. I drove the tires off that car. I got in so much trouble when My parents put the first set of tires on only the rears after 1month of having the car! Good times, and I can tell you that if you go fast enough your car will skip on water..LOL

LOL sounds like a good memory :) nd yeah i was going to change it right now.i usually use it in mobile that why. ima try to do it right now. Also im going to have the link to my video soon so all you guys check it out. ADD me on Facebook also is Jose Reyes DSM. Ill add all you guys so dont worry.
 
I think that bov is a EBay bov. But I'm not sure. Could be a greedy type S but doubt it.
You should also buy some mesh to cover up that smic. You don't want rocks flying into that.
You should also go ahead and replace that ripped coupler just to avoid boost leaks... if its not already leaking. Im pretty sure you need a 2.5 coupler.

Im sorry... thats all i could really help you with.
Don't forget to buy a timing belt cover!
 
Ref to video:

1.) stock infinity amp
2.) stock cams
3.) injen intake
4.) ebay bov
5.) oem stock intake manifold

The bov line should go to the intake manifold nipple.
You are getting sparks from that bolt cause you are touching the alternator positive bolt on the right hand side, disconect the negitive on the battery before you take that heat sheild off.
That is the thermostat housing, the thing that you said was connected to your intercooler... its not its connected to your radatior.
 
Ref to video:

1.) stock infinity amp
2.) stock cams
3.) injen intake
4.) ebay bov
5.) oem stock intake manifold

The bov line should go to the intake manifold nipple.
You are getting sparks from that bolt cause you are touching the alternator positive bolt on the right hand side, disconect the negitive on the battery before you take that heat sheild off.
That is the thermostat housing, the thing that you said was connected to your intercooler... its not its connected to your radatior.

All of what he said is accurate. And to add to that;

- The fuel pumps you were holding, look OEM (original equipment manufactured) but you need to have a close look for any kind of data stamp or insignia claiming a brand.

- I have spare 2.5" 4 ply silicone couplers you can have if you pay the shipping charge.

- Mount the fuse box properly to the fender side wall inside the engine bay, there should be a bracket that it connects to using two M6 1/4 inch bolts *hex 10mm*. There should be one longer one that connects the lower right side of the fuse box but that is where it looks to be hanging from.

- The wheel well needs splash gaurds. NEEDS THEM! Especially if you don't want to puncture the SMIC (side mount intercooler). Find them used for $10, make sure you have all proper hardware (bolts).

- That turbo looks to be a stock T25.

- That "wire" that connects to the BOV (blow off valve) is actually a vaccum line and I don't know why it's routed to the firewall but if it's in working order, I assume it's properly connected.

Thank you for taking the time to shoot the video and post it here. We encourage DSM owners who are new to them to do as much research on them before they begin the tuning venture which will no doubt, begin to brake stuff. But maintenance is KEY in preventing catastrophic failure and embarassment.

Aside from that, the car is CLEAN! it has a GREAT DEAL of potential! I think you can breathe life back into this beauty. I like that you're hands on, want to fix it and please for your sake, if you have a question about anything before you take it apart or replace it for no reason, please don't hesitate to ask the board. We are here for one another to help each other and keep our cars on the road, in the most safe and fun manner possible.

By the way, how many miles are on your car now?
 
I posted wrong earlier and I apologize it's a manual, not Auto. I didn't see any clutch reservoir, or master cylinder in the early pics. Is that a full spare tire in the trunk or on of the tires from the 4 corners? I would get a timing belt cover for sure, you don't want to run the risk of anything getting thrown up in there, ect.
-yes the intake manifold can look nice and new, especially when your running the crank case line back into the intake and not using a breather. All those lines going to the Injen Intake are good things. The smallest one goes to your cars BCS, or boost control solenoid. Research the free mods and you might be able to free up a couple psi.
Other than that it lookalike you got yourself a pretty good car that was modded correctly and taken care of. Happy boosting, and feel free to ask questions (as long as you use the SEARCH feature first!!).
 
That's guys really appreciate it sooo much.And yeah I'm trying to get the cover for the belt but just don't have any money too. I only have $15 literally. @DOHCTA do you have a boost controller? I'm trying to get one. And also how much is shipping?
@69_luv the tire on the trunk is actually the tire that goes on the car. The wheel popped on the fwy, I just put that spare. Thank god I had that spare from my previous eclipse because the GST didn't have one.
 
The thing you didn't know that connects to the bottom of the oil pan is the oil return line from your turbo, it has a protective coil wrapped around to keep debris from puncturing it.

The part your missing from the bottom of your flywheel (transmission exposed you were saying), is actually a really cheap part from the dealer. It's called a flywheel inspection plate there are only 3 bolts (M6 x 1/2 inch hex 10mm) that hold it against the bell housing of the transmission. It's super easy to install two of the bolts at the front of the plate but the last (3rd) bolt, is at the rear and in a very tight spot. If you have small hands, an open wrench and patience, you'll get it in.

Part and price: https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17092&cat=402&page=1

The BOV will only sound when you are in boost. If the car isn't being driven, may only see about 5psi at around 4,000rpm when you let off the gas pedal. The more boost that's locked in the charge pipe, will give off a louder BOV sound. I highly recommend you buy a boost gauge before you buy a boost controller. Unless you want to blow the motor over an $80 part and little performance gain.

If you want to determine what the CEL (check engine light) is, you should bring it to a garage and have them plug in an obd2 scanner and get the code. Write it down, tell us what the numbers are. We'll tell you what sensor need replacing and how to do it, where to find it.

I also HIGHLY recommend you check and change all the fluids necessary, getting your car up to par with it's servicing is key in the beginning stages of tuning and turning up the boost.

Here's a link to someone who is a 2g dsm expert and has a ton of videos on youtube that will no doubt, help you along the way of getting to know your car, and how to modify it properly without breaking anything *don't quote me on that*.

jafromobile dsm - YouTube

The 3rd gear grinding problem can be from improper clutch adjustment, watch this; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPKngQ54yJs

You need to find an upper, middle and lower timing belt cover. Buy them used, just make sure they're not cracked or missing pieces of plastic. New, they're a bit pricey; https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/home.php?cat=278&sort=orderby&sort_direction=0&page=2
 
Alrite yeah ima do that then, never knew the boost gauges were that important,thought they were just for the looks. Great that yu guys let me know how important it is. Also I do have the check engine light codes but dnt have the paper right now. Ill post it tomorrow ok. Nd do you guys know how to replace the clutch. Because I've been wanting to be a mechanic,so if you guys can tell me where to start by dropping the transmission nd what to do then great. If not its ok,I understand that it might take a while to write.

Also my turbo spools at 3,000? Is that good?
 
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